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My New Studio Build (perhaps overly detailed)

#2,961
Today I’ve systematically removed all pieces of musical equipment from my house and moved it into the studio. It’s kind of a mess in there right now. The idea was to have that be a motivating factor in finishing out the vestibule construction so I can have places to store everything.

Additionally, my favorite bass of all time is back from the shop and is now on its throne (aka the front left wall hanger).

040270CB-4D14-4F54-BBD3-AB12949CC350.jpeg
 
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#2,962
beans-on-toast said:
A friend had a music store that used non locking cheapo instrument hangers. A small earthquake brought them all down to the floor.

Would rubber bumpers on the sides of the acoustic panels help with any potential contact when removing or replacing the instruments or do you have enough space between them?
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I was gonna ask why someone would need locking hangers but I guess that makes sense. We had an earthquake here in PA a few years back. Nothing fell off the wall. LOL.
 
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#2,963
marko138 said:
I was gonna ask why someone would need locking hangers but I guess that makes sense. We had an earthquake here in PA a few years back. Nothing fell off the wall. LOL.
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While I think earthquakes are certainly a concern, especially in West Seattle where my studio is located (there's large fault line directly under the canyon immediately east of my house), I'm more concerned with someone not quite getting a guitar back on the hanger and then one little bump and it comes crashing to the floor. For me an earthquake would likely result in liquefaction of the soils on the ground slope to the east and a total loss of my studio. So in that case... Locking hangers or not, I'll be making a full claim on my musician's insurance :p
 
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#2,964
Working out the dimensions for the HRV baffle box. I'm thinking 18" wide (out to out) so I can fit mounting brackets on the 16" OC studs. Using 6" tall baffle chambers (big enough to clear the 5" ID round ducts) to create 1 full and 2 half turns per side (intake and exhaust), I'll end up with an overall box dimension of 36.4" tall x 18" wide x 6" deep.

The build will be doubled-up 1/4" plywood with Green Glue in between each layer, and Green Glue sealant along all of the adjoining seams. I'll skin the outside of it with T/G cedar and then corners to match the building's. The intake and exhaust vent holes, which can be as large as 4" x 12" will be standard exterior vents in a black finish. The exhaust vent will be placed on the underside/bottom, the intake on the top of the front face. This will keep the conditioned and unconditioned air from mixing, which would defeat the purpose of the HRV (admittedly the factory arrangement without a baffle box doesn't do a good job of keeping this from happening, so this will be an improvement). Lastly, a wide drip flashing on the top to keep the rain away from the vents will finish it off.

I'll also be building a much more simple box with the same doubled-up plywood, Green Glue and cedar where the mini split punches through the wall. A mini split is a closed system (i.e. it's more like plumbing than HVAC), so I can't put baffles in it, but the box and Green Glue will help with isolation along the north wall all the same.

The weather is about to get gross here in Seattle, so it might be a week or two before I get to it. Hoping to knock out some vestibule tasks this weekend. Keeping my fingers crossed that my motivation holds out and I actually do it rather than just going into the main room and working on this jazz composition I've been at for the last week :p

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#2,965
silky smoove said:
Working out the dimensions for the HRV baffle box. I'm thinking 18" wide (out to out) so I can fit mounting brackets on the 16" OC studs. Using 6" tall baffle chambers (big enough to clear the 5" ID round ducts) to create 1 full and 2 half turns per side (intake and exhaust), I'll end up with an overall box dimension of 36.4" tall x 18" wide x 6" deep.

The build will be doubled-up 1/4" plywood with Green Glue in between each layer, and Green Glue sealant along all of the adjoining seams. I'll skin the outside of it with T/G cedar and then corners to match the building's. The intake and exhaust vent holes, which can be as large as 4" x 12" will be standard exterior vents in a black finish. The exhaust vent will be placed on the underside/bottom, the intake on the top of the front face. This will keep the conditioned and unconditioned air from mixing, which would defeat the purpose of the HRV (admittedly the factory arrangement without a baffle box doesn't do a good job of keeping this from happening, so this will be an improvement). Lastly, a wide drip flashing on the top to keep the rain away from the vents will finish it off.

I'll also be building a much more simple box with the same doubled-up plywood, Green Glue and cedar where the mini split punches through the wall. A mini split is a closed system (i.e. it's more like plumbing than HVAC), so I can't put baffles in it, but the box and Green Glue will help with isolation along the north wall all the same.

The weather is about to get gross here in Seattle, so it might be a week or two before I get to it. Hoping to knock out some vestibule tasks this weekend. Keeping my fingers crossed that my motivation holds out and I actually do it rather than just going into the main room and working on this jazz composition I've been at for the last week :p

View attachment 3305812
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Do you need to cover the vents with mesh to keep critters out?
 
#2,974
At home from work due to unsafe driving conditions. This is the first actual winter we’ve had in Seattle this year. I go out to the studio and it’s 60 degrees inside. The mini split is just pushing cold air. I go outside and the condenser unit is frozen with a good mound of snow on top. I clear it off and it kicks on shortly afterwards. Looks like I need to build an awning for it.
 
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#2,977
Cleared the snow and ice, put the air handler in “jet mode,” then began woodshedding on drums. Not realizing that the jet setting is 86F by default I immediately wondered why I was sweating so much as I was working through triplet exercises at ever-increasing tempos. The good news is that the studio can go from 60F to 86F in no time. The bad news is... there is no bad news! :smug:
 
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#2,979
beans-on-toast said:
Hopefully the temperature issue won’t occur again. Otherwise, it would be nice to have a way of monitoring the studio temperature remotely. Thermal shock of the instruments and equipment is best avoided.
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It hit 24F here in Seattle overnight. That’s noticeably colder than usual by a large margin. Even at that the studio only hit 60F due to the massive amount of insulation. I’m not concerned about it at this point. With an awning over the condenser I’ll be even less concerned.
 
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#2,980
silky smoove said:
At home from work due to unsafe driving conditions. This is the first actual winter we’ve had in Seattle this year. I go out to the studio and it’s 60 degrees inside. The mini split is just pushing cold air. I go outside and the condenser unit is frozen with a good mound of snow on top. I clear it off and it kicks on shortly afterwards. Looks like I need to build an awning for it.
Click to expand...

Just when I thought this thread was sunsetting we are back in business!! Alright awning time!
 

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