1 of 8 shelf furring strip supports installed.
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My New Studio Build (perhaps overly detailed)
- Thread starter silky smoove
- Start date
West side is done. Now to duplicate that on the east side.
No, they have 3” screws into two studs each and then toggle bolts on the ends to ensure that everything was level. They’re quite stout.
East side is mostly done. I have to break and run to an appointment. It’s also a gorgeous day out so I’m calling it good for today. I’ll finish things up next week.
East side is done. I intentionally cut furring strips and a shelf for this side to match the west side, but never intended to install the shelf. This way I can have symmetrical shelves in-place if I ever sell this house. I think it’ll be more attractive to future buyers than some odd asymmetric layout of shelving.
On to the west side! ...admittedly it’s really hard not to unpack all of my mics that will be living on the upper shelves and put them up there, but I need to finish the west side and clean out the vestibule before I do that.
On to the west side! ...admittedly it’s really hard not to unpack all of my mics that will be living on the upper shelves and put them up there, but I need to finish the west side and clean out the vestibule before I do that.
West side is done!
Now I’m off to Home Depot to grab a cutting wheel for my Dremel tool so I can put in the door threshold trim piece.
Now I’m off to Home Depot to grab a cutting wheel for my Dremel tool so I can put in the door threshold trim piece.
Lesson learned. When you get a new door, don’t leave the adhesive paper on the threshold for a couple years. It bonds to the plastic and is a BEAST to get off. I’ve been at this for 45 minutes and still have about ten more minutes to go, on JUST THE UPPER THRESHOLD.
For those that haven’t heard of this, the over under cable winding technique is good for all cables. It helps keeps winding stress out of the shield and prevents it from opening with time.
I always over-under my cables. XLR, 1/4”, phone power cables, IEC power cables... EVERYTHING!
I’m struggling with methods for mounting the baffle boxes.
1. I could mount them on top of the siding, but then I have a series of large gaps to deal with due to the sawtooth pattern created by lap siding.
2. I could cut the siding in the area of the boxes to create a flat mounting surface. The siding is Hardie (ie cementuous fiber board) and extremely difficult to cut. I’d need an angle grinder with a diamond blade, and then would still have trouble with getting clean corners. On top of that if need to not damage the plywood sheathing and building wrap under the siding.
3. I could MAYBE use some of the extra siding I have left to rip a few pieces and mount them upside down to flatten out the sawtooth pattern.
No option seems to be without serious drawbacks.
EDIT: The online community on various DIY forums seems to think that removing the siding in the area of the box is the answer. Remove the siding, install the box, cut the siding to the needed length, reinstall. This comes with the downside of screwing up all the caulking, trim and paint in the areas of the siding pieces removed. Ugh...
1. I could mount them on top of the siding, but then I have a series of large gaps to deal with due to the sawtooth pattern created by lap siding.
2. I could cut the siding in the area of the boxes to create a flat mounting surface. The siding is Hardie (ie cementuous fiber board) and extremely difficult to cut. I’d need an angle grinder with a diamond blade, and then would still have trouble with getting clean corners. On top of that if need to not damage the plywood sheathing and building wrap under the siding.
3. I could MAYBE use some of the extra siding I have left to rip a few pieces and mount them upside down to flatten out the sawtooth pattern.
No option seems to be without serious drawbacks.
EDIT: The online community on various DIY forums seems to think that removing the siding in the area of the box is the answer. Remove the siding, install the box, cut the siding to the needed length, reinstall. This comes with the downside of screwing up all the caulking, trim and paint in the areas of the siding pieces removed. Ugh...
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Would a circular masonry saw work? Set appropriate blade depth and use plunge cuts. Tedious and difficult, but more accurate than an angle grinder.
I found an example of someone doing that very thing, but they had major issues at the corners. Same would hold true with an angle grinder, or any circular cutting device. So... Any way you slice it (pun intended) this will be tough.
can't you just put in on the siding as is and caulk/seal the zig zag pattern holes, they will be miniscule. or fill them with that sound putty you used and then caulk it sealed. seems a hell of a lot easier that cutting siding.
I don't think they'll be all that minuscule. A flat plain butting up against a sawtooth leaves a lot of triangles to fill with some form of sealant. There's also the issue of having some sort of backer to stop the sealant from continuously pouring into the void. Foam backer rod doesn't do well outside, nor does expanding foam. Some expanding foam is made for outdoor applications, but I also need something that won't expand to the point of mis-aligning the baffle box. It's a lot of complications that make this a less than ideal solution, even if the application is easier.
What sound putty? The stuff I put around the light and outlet boxes? Those putty pads need something to adhere to. This will have an open gap directly behind it. I'm also not sure that they're made for outdoor use.
I don't disagree, I just worry about the viability in an exterior setting, especially one as moist as Seattle.
Wouldn't be pretty straightforward to make a template from the sawtooth pattern?
