My New Studio Build (perhaps overly detailed)

[Carl Hillman]

I’m struggling with methods for mounting the baffle boxes.

1. I could mount them on top of the siding, but then I have a series of large gaps to deal with due to the sawtooth pattern created by lap siding.

2. I could cut the siding in the area of the boxes to create a flat mounting surface. The siding is Hardie (ie cementuous fiber board) and extremely difficult to cut. I’d need an angle grinder with a diamond blade, and then would still have trouble with getting clean corners. On top of that if need to not damage the plywood sheathing and building wrap under the siding.

3. I could MAYBE use some of the extra siding I have left to rip a few pieces and mount them upside down to flatten out the sawtooth pattern.

No option seems to be without serious drawbacks.

EDIT: The online community on various DIY forums seems to think that removing the siding in the area of the box is the answer. Remove the siding, install the box, cut the siding to the needed length, reinstall. This comes with the downside of screwing up all the caulking, trim and paint in the areas of the siding pieces removed. Ugh...

How big are the boxes?
Maybe you could find a mounting block similar to this that would fit?


Builders Edge 6.625 in. x 6.625 #001 White Triple 3-Surface Universal Mounting Block-130110007001 - The Home Depot

 

[Stevorebob]

It could be, but I can’t conceive of how that would be done. Any suggestions?

Cardboard; tape pencil to small wood block; trace pattern to cardboard; cut template; recut to final fit; transfer pattern to final lumber; cut with scroll saw.

 

[Door County Bass]

It could be, but I can’t conceive of how that would be done. Any suggestions?

Do a Google search for a “contour profile duplicator “. Should be about $8.

 

[beans-on-toast]

I would scribe along the edge and fit the baffle box to the wall. I wouldn't cut the siding. Similar to what is below. They do this on TOH, there are videos of how they do it. A coping saw, angled in, allows you to cut the contour. I'd practice with a board first before tackling the baffle box.

 

[Stumbo]

I'd pretty much do anything to not disturb the wall.

A carpenter could do it for you.

 

[silky smoove]

How big are the boxes?
Maybe you could find a mounting block similar to this that would fit?


Builders Edge 6.625 in. x 6.625 #001 White Triple 3-Surface Universal Mounting Block-130110007001 - The Home Depot

Mounting blocks are too small and non-structural. The box will be far too large and heavy for one of these. I looked for larger weight-bearing ones last night, and they don't exist.

Cardboard; tape pencil to small wood block; trace pattern to cardboard; cut template; recut to final fit; transfer pattern to final lumber; cut with scroll saw.

That's a good idea, but without an exposed edge to trace I'm not seeing how I would get the pattern onto the cardboard.

Do a Google search for a “contour profile duplicator “. Should be about $8.

On it...

I would scribe along the edge and fit the baffle box to the wall. I wouldn't cut the siding. Similar to what is below. They do this on TOH, there are videos of how they do it. A coping saw, angled in, allows you to cut the contour. I's practice with a board first before tackling the baffle box.

I'll watch this when I get home from the office.

I'd pretty much do anything to not disturb the wall.

Agreed

A carpenter could do it for you.

I'm looking at a contractor as my last resort. I'm in the home stretch and don't want to get slowed down waiting for a contractor. The building industry is still going nuts in Seattle, so timelines are long and costs are high for even simple jobs. If I can't do it myself this is where I'll turn, but I'm holding out hope that I can do it effectively without needing to hire it out.

 

[silky smoove]

Do a Google search for a “contour profile duplicator “. Should be about $8.

This looks promising. I ordered the biggest one I could find that could be delivered quickly, which is unfortunately only 10". It was cheap and will be here tomorrow from Amazon.

 

[Stevorebob]

That's a good idea, but without an exposed edge to trace I'm not seeing how I would get the pattern onto the cardboard.

I must be misunderstanding something. Isn’t the siding surface exposed? That would be the edge, and the blocked pencil riding on that surface would trace the siding profile to the cardboard.

Or I’m missing something. Very possible, that.

 

[silky smoove]

I must be misunderstanding something. Isn’t the siding surface exposed? That would be the edge, and the blocked pencil riding on that surface would trace the siding profile to the cardboard.

Or I’m missing something. Very possible, that.

It's probably me that's missing something. Yes, the siding is visible, but I'm failing to understand how you could use a block to negotiate the tight turns required to trace the profile all while keeping the pencil perpendicular to the both the tracing and the scribing surfaces. It just seems like too many things going on at once that would lead to an improper fit.

 

[Stevorebob]

It's probably me that's missing something. Yes, the siding is visible, but I'm failing to understand how you could use a block to negotiate the tight turns required to trace the profile all while keeping the pencil perpendicular to the both the tracing and the scribing surfaces. It just seems like too many things going on at once that would lead to an improper fit.

Small block. High enough for the pencil to reach the template, just wide enough to be able to hold perpendicular to the siding. Maybe 1”x1/2” or 1”x1”. Of course. the drops for the lower side of the siding will be a challenge, but these will be at 90 degrees to the face so you could just fill in the sloppy areas. The template will be rough, so it will have to be adjusted.

Or you could mark the pattern with a framing square. Have someone hold the template cardboard in position, place the square against the siding into the overlap, trace one dimension (e.g., the flats), then without moving the template, turn the square around, place it against the overlap and trace the other dimension.

 

[Stumbo]

I would hold the cardboard upright with my left hand, hold a small pencil in my right hand(thumb, pointer) against cardboard, then drag my right hand pinky down the wall and scribe an outline onto the cardboard.

 

[Microbass]

What about cutting a reverse sawtooth into the baffle frame? That would leave minimal gaps when the baffle is mounted, and caulking would be less messy?

Unsure if this is what Stumbo suggested. I’m not even entirely sure I’m talking about the right thing.

 

[silky smoove]

What about cutting a reverse sawtooth into the baffle frame? That would leave minimal gaps when the baffle is mounted, and caulking would be less messy?

That's what I've been trying to do. The profile duplicator I ordered should be here today.

 

[mpm32]

While all the suggestions above will work, the easiest method and one that will leave you with square corners is an oscillating saw. They even sell blades for hardie. If you think purchasing one of these for just one job is silly, you will quickly see their usefullness for other projects.

No need to remove your siding.

 

[silky smoove]

While all the suggestions above will work, the easiest method and one that will leave you with square corners is an oscillating saw. They even sell blades for hardie. If you think purchasing one of these for just one job is silly, you will quickly see their usefullness for other projects.

No need to remove your siding.

The folks on all of the Hardie-related forums suggested an oscillating saw, the Multimaster, from this company called Fein. That said, most reports were mixed on how well these work for cutting Hardie. I've never used one, so I can't say. Suffice it to say, I'm going to try a few things that will hopefully work without needing to cut the siding at all.

 

[mpm32]

Ah, the Fein is the Cadillac of oscillating saws, I think they invented it. No need to get a Fein, the others do the job just as well.

Well good luck! If you contracted me to do it, I would use the oscillating saw. Quickest and least painful. If you do decide to do it that way, put a piece of flashing at the top of the box.

 

[Door County Bass]

On the lighter side...I’m not a good “finished carpenter “, more like a good “rough-in” guy. That being said, a good carpenter told me I should use 1/8th inch paint, otherwise known as caulk, lol. Sometimes I have to use 1/4 inch paint...ouch.

 

[silky smoove]

If you do decide to do it that way, put a piece of flashing at the top of the box.

I'll be flashing the whole thing regardless. The last thing I need is a bunch of trapped water creating a mold problem right at the fresh air intake and exhaust

 

[Matt B]

I might be missing something here, but can you not build the baffle box as a sealed unit and mount it on some brackets standing off the wall? then just seal the duct?

 

[silky smoove]

I might be missing something here, but can you not build the baffle box as a sealed unit and mount it on some brackets standing off the wall? then just seal the duct?

How would you deal with sound isolating the ducting gap between the building and the box if it were stood off? The answer is that you couldn't and it would defeat the purpose of the box entirely. It has to be sealed against the building for an exterior installation. There's a reason why folks with larger studio spaces than me choose to build with high ceilings and attic spaces to hide their baffle boxes rather than putting them outside like I'm forced to do.