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My New Studio Build (perhaps overly detailed)
- Thread starter silky smoove
- Start date
Greg at Apogee admitted that they’ve never seen that behavior. He asked me to uninstall/reinstall the control software, and if that didn’t work he sent me a link to the beta version of the new control software slated to come out later this year. Admittedly I haven’t had time to do that but hope to get to it this week. Greg also elevated my problem, along with the corresponding emails and videos to folks above his CS position. So, the problem still persists but I’m remaining confident that Apogee will make things right.
Hey Silky, would you mind doing a finalish cost breakdown (maybe throw it in the op), I’m starting to think crazy thoughts about building a studio and am curious to see your numbers.
Including removal of the old structure, site prep, permitting, and construction of the new building? Or are you thinking of just the interior construction?
EDIT: I thought I had answered this earlier in the thread, and as it happens I did. You can find the detailed response here: My New Studio Build (perhaps overly detailed)
All told I’m at about $45,000 and still have to finish a few items. Probably another $500 give or take. The interior finishing (assuming a building stripped down to the studs and sub floor on the interior with no existing electrical or insulation) was $15,000-20,000 of that total cost.
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Got some new things to try from higher up at Apogee. I’m going to tackle that on Sunday.
I didn't get to it. Got busy doing other things.
Tomorrow through Sunday I'll be working on the hardscaping in front of the studio, so that will at least be some progress on the few remaining items. This is the last major project for the studio. Everything else from here on out is just minor stuff. This will take a few days, but hopefully not all five that I have blocked out.
Finally got around to trying Apogee’s solutions. None of them worked. They’re recommending that I try different optical cables, so I’m waiting on a response for which specific cable (brand, model, etc.) they recommend and use with their units. If this doesn’t resolve the issue I’m going to request that they take them back to be repaired or replaced.
In addition to that, my Adam Sub8 has died. It won’t even power on. Tried different power cables and different power outlets. No luck. Dead. I bought it back on April 11th and it’s only been in use a handful of times due to the ongoing interface issue. I’ve sent a message to Sweetwater requesting a replacement, but I’m not sure if they’ll grant it since their return policy is 30 days. This isn’t a return per se, so we’ll see if they make it right or if I have to take it up with Adam directly.
Basically I have a non-functioning studio at the moment, but at least I get to spend the next several days building a concrete patio for it...
Venting over.
In addition to that, my Adam Sub8 has died. It won’t even power on. Tried different power cables and different power outlets. No luck. Dead. I bought it back on April 11th and it’s only been in use a handful of times due to the ongoing interface issue. I’ve sent a message to Sweetwater requesting a replacement, but I’m not sure if they’ll grant it since their return policy is 30 days. This isn’t a return per se, so we’ll see if they make it right or if I have to take it up with Adam directly.
Basically I have a non-functioning studio at the moment, but at least I get to spend the next several days building a concrete patio for it...
Venting over.
If Sweetwater accepts it as a defective product I’ll get a new one and can just send back the current one. That’s ideal because it’s faster. If it’s a repair I’ll have to send it to Adam in Germany. Given the weight I’m guessing that’d be an expensive shipment. Hopefully it gets sorted out cheaply for me regardless
OICIf Sweetwater accepts it as a defective product I’ll get a new one and can just send back the current one. That’s ideal because it’s faster. If it’s a repair I’ll have to send it to Adam in Germany. Given the weight I’m guessing that’d be an expensive shipment. Hopefully it gets sorted out cheaply for me regardless
Basically I have a non-functioning studio at the moment, but at least I get to spend the next several days building a concrete patio for it...
Venting over.
You can use that anger to punch the gravel in place before pouring the cement. Make sure it's nice and tight
From Sweetwater:
Wow, I'm sorry. You have a 2 year warranty on everything we sell. I'll get you setup with service.
That takes care of the sub. Now I need Apogee to get me some intel, or repair/replace my interfaces.
Wow, I'm sorry. You have a 2 year warranty on everything we sell. I'll get you setup with service.
That takes care of the sub. Now I need Apogee to get me some intel, or repair/replace my interfaces.
Hardscaping...
The old walkway
Cheap Home Depot pavers I put in back in 2015
Lots of dirt to move out of the way
Trench and PVC conduit to route the irrigation under the soon-to-be-built pavers
So many pavers...
Staging for the first phase of work
And so it begins
Making progress
Mo progress mo betta
My wife is in charge of fine detail work, I’m in charge of removing dirt, moving blocks, moving pavers, etc.
The old walkway
Cheap Home Depot pavers I put in back in 2015
Lots of dirt to move out of the way
Trench and PVC conduit to route the irrigation under the soon-to-be-built pavers
So many pavers...
Staging for the first phase of work
And so it begins
Making progress
Mo progress mo betta
My wife is in charge of fine detail work, I’m in charge of removing dirt, moving blocks, moving pavers, etc.
Morning excavation. Exhausting. Breaking for some food.
That drop in elevation will be taken up by two courses of blocks and caps to form stairs. The same blocks and caps for the studio’s retaining wall. It should all tie nicely together.
That drop in elevation will be taken up by two courses of blocks and caps to form stairs. The same blocks and caps for the studio’s retaining wall. It should all tie nicely together.
Great work. Been doing plenty of DIY myself recently....
Nothing has changed since the 70’s....
So glad to be rid of that. Many tile cuts on my fingers tho. Threw my mallet away as my hands were dripping in blood before I noticed and it slid out.
Maude loving the new “outdoor couch feature”
Floors turned out real nice! New furniture as we got a score on the 2 couches and a lazy boy. Still to be sanded and lacquered.
Now she’s got her very own chair. Lazy dog, lazy chair. And my new hipster wall.
Nothing has changed since the 70’s....
So glad to be rid of that. Many tile cuts on my fingers tho. Threw my mallet away as my hands were dripping in blood before I noticed and it slid out.
Maude loving the new “outdoor couch feature”
Floors turned out real nice! New furniture as we got a score on the 2 couches and a lazy boy. Still to be sanded and lacquered.
Now she’s got her very own chair. Lazy dog, lazy chair. And my new hipster wall.
It’s been preloaded for four years under the weight of existing concrete and people walking on it. Additionally I’ve plate compacted it below the leveling course. It’s not going anywhere.
Powered compaction isn’t necessary here for the reasons stated above. As a civil engineer my confidence level in that approach is quite high. Sand is only necessary for pavers with large gaps to lock them in horizontally. I’ll dust this with excess fill dirt, sweep it, repeat, hose it down and call it good. It’ll achieve the same thing without needing to bring in sand, and given the tiny paver gaps it won’t make any appreciable difference except in my wallet. At my last house I used flagstone pavers with half inch gaps. That required polymeric sand.
