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My preamp bender: A Journal.

I have one of the original SS pedals that got the UA Blue channel treatment that I use as a crunch to full blast pedal on my Tweety bass rig [guitar & piccolo bass] so know just what you mean. I am about to clean house of many of my collected basses, drive & effect pedals to raise some cash for my new obsession, electronic noise making.

I've come to the sad conclusion that any travel, touring and gigging is just beyond me with my health and physical condition that does not promise improvement. Creating music at home will become my outlet and perhaps a few low key local shows with supportive friends.
 
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PA Mini getting more play here than the Slampegg, though there's notable hiss when I get up there with volume (not that I need to.) Running the PA Mini into the Analog Alien Bass Station amp sim is delicious. Though if I'm being honest, AABS with the Finally DI after it is incredible, maybe more so than having the PA before it.
 
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PA Mini getting more play here than the Slampegg, though there's notable hiss when I get up there with volume (not that I need to.) Running the PA Mini into the Analog Alien Bass Station amp sim is delicious. Though if I'm being honest, AABS with the Finally DI after it is incredible, maybe more so than having the PA before it.
I get hiss from mine, too - but I run it into a Broughton LPF that's taking care of it.
 
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A surprise parcel arrived at my doorstep, containing, among other things, this.
svpre.jpg


This is weirdly interesting. I don't particularly like the sound of the SVT. I don't particularly like the sound of pedals that claim to be an SVT in pedal format. I do particularly like basically everything Broughton.
I already spotted differences. The low switch has three positions. The mid frequency selector works seamless instead of the notched original. We'll see.
I'm currently bound up in a different project, but will rig a test bench as soon as I can.

The blacked out Particle Accelerator should hopefully be here by next week, too.
 
IMG-20230126-WA0010.jpg


So this is the test bench I mad-professored together. The three preamps, a little dirty boost in front, a tube comp and LPF/HPF/DI last.


First things first, I think the Dexter is broken. After a minute of warming up, the sound would cut out occasionally and tapping it would restore it. Furthermore, the Mid knob works as expected, but I can't hear a difference when I turn bass or treble. I'll have to look inside and see if something can explain that behavior.
The sounds I did get from it were ... good. The bass was present, not dominating but certainly not without heft.
The treble was a bit on the harsh side for my taste and I would have liked to reduce it a bit. Running high gain, past 1 o'clock or feeding it with the boost sends it into a distortion that sounds nice when you're hitting the sweet spot of slowly getting there but not arriving quite yet. If you push it one bit further, It gives you the sound of a circuit that neither was meant to be redlined, nor enjoys the experience. It's like harsh clipping and not much fun. To my ears, of course.

Next up the Particle Accelerator. Man that thing is black. @Sushi Box FX did put an amber LED in there that looks like the tube is glowing. I know I asked him to do that in the past and he politely declined because it gives off a "fake tube glow" vibe. Well, it certainly does and I dig it a lot. I spend a good amount of time with a flashlight in my mouth because the lighting in my den is not sufficient to make out black on black.
I do have some experience with the older PA, and this is the same ballpark. The Mini Tube pedal would not distort no matter what I did, but this one does. If you want to send that tone stack through a tube and distort it on the way, get an Underground Accelerator, though. The PA stays clean a lot longer and then topples over the edge pretty quickly, giving you a rougher clipping that is way better than what the Dexter has to offer, but nowhere near as creamy as the Underground Accelerator. I feel like the highs are mellower here, I even want to say they have a pearly texture. But I can write anything I want here - I have the only one of these in existence. Go ahead and prove me wrong!
It was no problem running this pedal with all the knobs dimed. It was even pleasant. I liked it a lot. Rich and fat bass, not too warm but certainly not cold, pearly highs that worked well with my flats.
Pushing it a bit harder with the Saturn needed some fine tuning but I eventually got there. The Saturn was doing most of the work, but the result kinda felt like a two channel amp head.

The Ampeg Broughton came next. I've already given this pedal a few laps on my board - not as a preamp, but as an overdrive (which you can read up on in my dirt bender jounal), where my verdict was that it certainly catches the vibe of the SVT, but is way to beefy for my needs. Here I tried to aim for a clean sound.
First impression was that there is not too much output on tap. While the Dexter and the Sushi were able to send the LA-1A into mild compression with the master slightly past noon, on the Broughton I needed to turn it up nearly all the way to match that kind of output. Since I had to keep the gain fairly low, It was barely able to keep up. That's not a deal breaker at all, but something worth mentioning.
I once more struggled a bit to find treble settings I could live with. I certainly needed to flip the treble switch to get some definition into the sound, and I also used the parametric mids for a slight boost nearly all the way up.
I ended up with the bass knob in the neutral (do nothing) position and the bass around 1 o'clock. In my setup, it feels like at noon there is a slight loss of bass, just after noon is flat, and when you cross 1 o'clock, you're introducing mud. The sweet spot is between 12:30 and 1.
Again, this pedal catches the vibe of the SVT. And I need to say it again: I don't much care for that particular amp head. I can coax sounds out of it that work well for me, but It's not the be all end all, like it is for some.
Would I play mainly rock with a P bass with rounds, I think that could be a contender, but I don't use rounds much and I don't play rock much.


My current situation is that I use a Noble for my clean sound and add a Fuzzrocious BDPG for an oldschool sound. None of these pedals here will contest that.
I will have to check the Dexter for mechanical problems. I will also have to return the SV-Pre eventually and I will not really miss it. I liked playing around with it and I can see its worth for many people in many situations, but not for me personally. For me, it worked a lot better as a beefy overdrive in a difficult mix than it did as a clean preamp.
The Sushi Box was bought by the collector in me. I sold my old PA to finance it.
I'm happy with the purchase and already planned building a blacked out pedal board some time in the future with the PA as the preamp on it.
 
You are getting quite the collection there my friend, that Stealth HWPA is bad a$$, and I feel likewise on the SVT in general in understanding why players dig it, just not my thing.

OTOH I do dig my mini tube Slampegg Bee in Stealth Black Laser Etched for that Extra Chunk & Creamy Vintage vibe.

I've sold a few, but in general, the collection is not getting smaller, that's true.
Those pedals that won't see any use at the current moment, but are quite hard to come by (like that HWPA, that Ictineo, that SS/BS Mini) are really hard to let go. I've rearranged my entire pedal board often enough to know that in the not-so-distant-yet-unforseeable future I might rip everything apart and assemble something new, then suddenly have the need for something special - it's good when you can reach into the cupboard and fish that something special out.
 
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@el murdoque, thanks for your informative & entertaining reviews, great read!

I’ve been putting together a small board (comp, SVPre, Slampegg, Vong) for IEM use and gigs with unknown backline. I bought a SV-Pre for double duty, cleanish pre-amp & overdrive. For now my favourite preamp setting is:
  • low cut on, bass dimed
  • treble switch on, treble 9:00
  • mid boost/cut depending on bass used
  • master dimed, gain set for unity
This way I get a rather vanilla flavoured modernish freelance-sound with a hint of Ampeg. For old school sounds I use the Slampegg.

When it comes to overdriven sounds, I’m clueless. Any tips how to get a ’vanilla flavoured freelance-overdrive’? The goal is to get one universal overdrive/distortion when needed in addition to a clean sound. In that case the Slampegg is doing the preamp duty.
 
When it comes to overdriven sounds, I’m clueless. Any tips how to get a ’vanilla flavoured freelance-overdrive’? The goal is to get one universal overdrive/distortion when needed in addition to a clean sound. In that case the Slampegg is doing the preamp duty.

What I liked a lot about the SV-Pre as an overdrive was that you can use that mids knob to sweep around the sizzle to have it sit nicely in a mix.
My settings were:
Bass: 1 o'clock
Mids: jsut past 2 o'clock
Treble: 1:30
Both switches in their neutral position.
Gain around 1 o'clock and master to match unity.

Now the mids frequency knob shifts that mid boost around, and that boost is where most of the dirt lives. I got good results from 600Hz all the way up to 3k, and used the dial to make sure I'm sizzling in a different spot than the guitar does.

Another setting that worked well for me was with the mid frequency very high, the treble at noon and the bright switch engaged.

However, it is a bit hard to translate that. My signal chain ends in a Broughton RFE, where on top of the LPF/HPF I give it a boost around 600Hz, and this is passed on to the Noble, with bass and treble boosted.
My play style and my flats don't produce much treble content, so I can boost highs a lot and get away with it - So it's safe to assume that your mileage will vary.


I'd go about it the following way:
First set it as flat as it goes (switches off, every knob at noon)
Then adjust the master (if necessary) to unity.
Then adjust the bass (knob and switch). Too much gets you mud, too little might sound thin.
Next, treble.
Then gain - I guess that anything past noon gives you the impression of an amp pushed hard - set it to your liking. Then give the mids a solid push and sweep through the band to see if your ears detect a sweet spot.
Once that is done, go at the treble bit again - now that you have more harmonics in the signal, the treble knobs behave a bit differently and you might find more or less of it more or less pleasing.
Once that is set, try it out in a mix - fiddle with the mids frequency to adjust.

I'm sure there's lots of different ways to set it up, but this got me a beefy, roaring overdrive every time.

Warning: I see you're from Finland. This roaring tone might attract a Moose in heat. Use at your own risk!
 
What I liked a lot about the SV-Pre as an overdrive was that you can use that mids knob to sweep around the sizzle to have it sit nicely in a mix.
My settings were:
Bass: 1 o'clock
Mids: jsut past 2 o'clock
Treble: 1:30
Both switches in their neutral position.
Gain around 1 o'clock and master to match unity.

Now the mids frequency knob shifts that mid boost around, and that boost is where most of the dirt lives. I got good results from 600Hz all the way up to 3k, and used the dial to make sure I'm sizzling in a different spot than the guitar does.

Another setting that worked well for me was with the mid frequency very high, the treble at noon and the bright switch engaged.

However, it is a bit hard to translate that. My signal chain ends in a Broughton RFE, where on top of the LPF/HPF I give it a boost around 600Hz, and this is passed on to the Noble, with bass and treble boosted.
My play style and my flats don't produce much treble content, so I can boost highs a lot and get away with it - So it's safe to assume that your mileage will vary.


I'd go about it the following way:
First set it as flat as it goes (switches off, every knob at noon)
Then adjust the master (if necessary) to unity.
Then adjust the bass (knob and switch). Too much gets you mud, too little might sound thin.
Next, treble.
Then gain - I guess that anything past noon gives you the impression of an amp pushed hard - set it to your liking. Then give the mids a solid push and sweep through the band to see if your ears detect a sweet spot.
Once that is done, go at the treble bit again - now that you have more harmonics in the signal, the treble knobs behave a bit differently and you might find more or less of it more or less pleasing.
Once that is set, try it out in a mix - fiddle with the mids frequency to adjust.

I'm sure there's lots of different ways to set it up, but this got me a beefy, roaring overdrive every time.

Warning: I see you're from Finland. This roaring tone might attract a Moose in heat. Use at your own risk!

Danke!

I’ve postponed my saturation&overdrive 101 -class long enough. I think the lack of eq, both equipment and the skill using it, has been the biggest obstacle in getting good overdriven sounds. That’s now covered and with your advice I should have a good start. Much appreciated!

All moose are welcome.
 
I declare the preamp section of my pedalboard finished for good.
The signal chain of Fuzzrocious BDPG into Cali76 into Broughton RFE into Noble is just it. At least for me and my Le Fay bass. I tried to shake every pillar and I shook it until I gave up. There is no comp I like better in that spot. There is nothing out there that does what the BDPG does. The RFE not only does the resonant filtering, but also provides the sweetest mid hump I ever laid ears on and the Noble is endgame anyway.

So I am very glad to announce that I opened up a second pedal board.
With what I learned from the past, I think I should get into the ballpark pretty quickly.

Here's where I'm at:

IMG-20231004-WA0035.jpg


The top row is the interesting bit here.
Top left is the Studio One, which is just a cheap fix until I get a real DI - as you can see it's switched off.
That's a power flex towards those who'd like one of these but can't find one.
(And to be honest, it's not mine. I would love one, but not at the current going rate).


Just left of the center is the center piece: the Empress Para EQ MkII Deluxe.
I already wrote about it in the Dirt Bender Jounal. That thing is quite powerful. It's also a bit boring because all it does is EQ - in a sober way, but the party trick is that it is quite complete.

Here's what it does:
1. Adjustable HPF
2. Shelving lows filter
3. Parametric lows (adjustable Q, frequency and gain)
4. Parametric mids (adjustable Q, frequency and gain)
5. Parametric highs (adjustable Q, frequency and gain)
6. Shelving highs filter
7. Adjustable LPF
(8. Adjustable boost)

All analog, all controlled via the phalanx of knobs. Nothing to shrug off easily. It does not deliver the magic, but it shapes your tone in every direction you can imagine, and even a bit further than that.

To aid it a little, you can see a Spaceman Equinox just right of the center.
This one pulls the Pultec trick, cutting and boosting bass at the same time. Switching it on makes me think of a velvet sledge hammer. There is some serious heft added to the lows, but not in a harsh way.

And a Cali, that mainly does peak limiting. I tried a couple of different compressors, but always ended up going back to the Origin. So I simply bought another one.



I do think that's already a pretty good starting point for board #2.
 
Is this a general all-purpose board, or is the remit here to still develop something for the IEM reggae band? If it's the latter, I'm surprised to see no sub-octave pedal in the mix. I've been playing in reggae bands for nearly 15yrs, and yeah, mostly it's just "clean" bass (mine is almost always tube-saturated right to the edge of breakup, so not crystal clean). But, like, if there's ever any dancehall-style breaks, or drum-n-bass grooves, I find the octave to be an essential ingredient.

Regardless, I think you've got some pretty snazzy tone-sculpting options here. I guess the question is, do you find this is currently lacking in any department?
 
Is this a general all-purpose board, or is the remit here to still develop something for the IEM reggae band? If it's the latter, I'm surprised to see no sub-octave pedal in the mix. I've been playing in reggae bands for nearly 15yrs, and yeah, mostly it's just "clean" bass (mine is almost always tube-saturated right to the edge of breakup, so not crystal clean). But, like, if there's ever any dancehall-style breaks, or drum-n-bass grooves, I find the octave to be an essential ingredient.

Regardless, I think you've got some pretty snazzy tone-sculpting options here. I guess the question is, do you find this is currently lacking in any department?
This is an early stage of board creation.
Actually, I bought this Music Man Bongo 6 and it won't work with my current board unless I twist basically every knob there is.
Looking at the buckets of unused pedals I scratched my head and realized that my test bench, a Pedaltrain JR with Cioks DC-7 underneath, could be converted into a standalone pedalboard for the Bongo. All I had to do was buy a second Cali76, which popped up nearby for a steal of a price.
So I set out to build a proper board with what I have available and quickly learned that I need to expand the 'what I have available' section.

Once the basic tone is set, I'll figure what else will go on there. On my big board, the C4 is taking care of the dancehall stuff.

On this one, I just experimented with the Fake Plastic Trees into an envelope, which was fun.
Add an OC-2 and you get sub-a-dub bass.
 
I can appreciate this quest, I’ve developed an obsession with preamps and dirt.

So far I’ve had:
  • Master Effects Super 800+ (sold)
  • EAE Model Fet
  • Jad Freer Capo
  • EAE Dude Incredible
Really enjoying the combination of the Capo with my Handbox WB-100 head.

The Model FeT is absolutely incredible for popping at the end of high gain tones, I’m not sure how to describe it other than giving it a really smooth texture. Sadly it was damaged in an electricity surge, hopefully fixed soon.

Very intrigued by the sushi box stuff though, someone was selling a Slampegg that I was really tempted to grab.

My boards is almost entirely preamps and drives currently

IMG_7651.jpeg
 
I received the LA-1A and plugged it in.
My case with all the cable stuff is not at home right now, so I could not fashion a 1/4" TRS to XLR cable and had to go on using the Messenger as DI, so I could not get the transformer coupled Line Out signal from the Effectrode, but nonetheless, the effect was stunning, to say the least.

From the Noble on my main board, I know that high quality tube gear can give your signal that certain something, even when the tubes run clean. The LA-1A, when I tried it last time, did not do much for me.
It's a compressor with a balanced direct out. I of course used the Noble's direct out - and put the LA-1A in place of my go-to comp, the Cali76. The compression was not to my liking and the tube effect does not really stack up with the Noble that well, so back then, all I got was a sluggish comp pedal that required two 12V outlets on my Cioks.
This time around, I use it for its output and in combo with a Cali, so all I want is some barely audible, mild compression and the tube thing.
And yet again, I will have to use weird terms to describe what happens when you activate the device.
People who use high quality tube gear and run their signal clean often claim that the signal becomes more 3D.
That is something that was said about the Noble a lot and I never understood what that is supposed to mean until I tried a Noble myself and instantly got it.
'It' also happens when you plug the LA-1A into an otherwise tubeless signal path.
The combination of the Empress Para EQ Deluxe and the LA-1A is quite awesome. The Para shapes the signal the way you want it to be, and then hands it over to the LA-1A to ennoble it.
It's weird that the process that happens with the tubes in the signal path is by no means subtle - there's no guessing and you do notice a clear difference when you switch it either on or off, but while it is super easy to experience - just bring your ears - it is not that easily described.
In a way, the tone is the same, but there's more of it. In another way, the tone is not the same, but the changes are welcome. The top end feels like it is rounded off a bit without any harsh cuts.

However, thanks to @Charlie Tuna , an Audio Kitchen The Small Trees DI just arrived, I'll test that against the LA-1A later and may be able to formulate a more qualified comment about the sound.
 
I received the LA-1A and plugged it in.
My case with all the cable stuff is not at home right now, so I could not fashion a 1/4" TRS to XLR cable and had to go on using the Messenger as DI, so I could not get the transformer coupled Line Out signal from the Effectrode, but nonetheless, the effect was stunning, to say the least.

From the Noble on my main board, I know that high quality tube gear can give your signal that certain something, even when the tubes run clean. The LA-1A, when I tried it last time, did not do much for me.
It's a compressor with a balanced direct out. I of course used the Noble's direct out - and put the LA-1A in place of my go-to comp, the Cali76. The compression was not to my liking and the tube effect does not really stack up with the Noble that well, so back then, all I got was a sluggish comp pedal that required two 12V outlets on my Cioks.
This time around, I use it for its output and in combo with a Cali, so all I want is some barely audible, mild compression and the tube thing.
And yet again, I will have to use weird terms to describe what happens when you activate the device.
People who use high quality tube gear and run their signal clean often claim that the signal becomes more 3D.
That is something that was said about the Noble a lot and I never understood what that is supposed to mean until I tried a Noble myself and instantly got it.
'It' also happens when you plug the LA-1A into an otherwise tubeless signal path.
The combination of the Empress Para EQ Deluxe and the LA-1A is quite awesome. The Para shapes the signal the way you want it to be, and then hands it over to the LA-1A to ennoble it.
It's weird that the process that happens with the tubes in the signal path is by no means subtle - there's no guessing and you do notice a clear difference when you switch it either on or off, but while it is super easy to experience - just bring your ears - it is not that easily described.
In a way, the tone is the same, but there's more of it. In another way, the tone is not the same, but the changes are welcome. The top end feels like it is rounded off a bit without any harsh cuts.

However, thanks to @Charlie Tuna , an Audio Kitchen The Small Trees DI just arrived, I'll test that against the LA-1A later and may be able to formulate a more qualified comment about the sound.
You must post a pic of your LA-1A because it has a couple items (one cosmetic, one functional) that no one else’s has.