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Naked Strings: First Impressions (Custom set .30 .45 .60 .85)

#21
ixlramp said:
Looking at the photo of the headstock, the .85 tapers down just before the post and the silk starts precisely at the post, so that's close but okay. As for the bridge, i read somewhere that the bridge is a 'semi string-through': the ball-ends can be anchored just below the surface of the bass, which would not take up any more winding length than top-loading.

Is this the correct christw?
Click to expand...

PhatBasstard said:
Without a pic it's hard to say what bridge the OP has. Carvin has used many throughout the last 20 years. However, unless they've started to deepen the rear anchor holes to nearly the front of the bass (which I severely doubt as I've worked on many and owned 3) stringing through is going to take a minimum of an extra inch of string out of the outer winding equation.

Even with one less inch of winding these strings would have been plenty long for a 35" string through, but still not good for a 34" scale.

It's hard to test accurately when it's not set up/built properly for 90% of the basses in use. :hmm:
Click to expand...

There is actually no more string used when strung through instead of top loading. I just checked my old set and used the kinks in it to make sure. There's less than an inch of string under the bridge itself from kink (where it contacts the bridge coming through) to the ball.
 
#22
christw said:
There is actually no more string used when strung through instead of top loading. I just checked my old set and used the kinks in it to make sure. There's less than an inch of string under the bridge itself from kink (where it contacts the bridge coming through) to the ball.
Click to expand...
What Carvin bridge do you have? Without seeing it first hand, plus knowing the thickness of the Carvin body, that's hard to believe.

However, if so, this would make the issue even greater: With no extra string being used even by stringing through the body there is way too much outer winding for a 34" (even 35") scaled bass with mini tuners.
 
#23
christw said:
There is actually no more string used when strung through instead of top loading. I just checked my old set and used the kinks in it to make sure. There's less than an inch of string under the bridge itself from kink (where it contacts the bridge coming through) to the ball.
Click to expand...

This is neither the case on my Fender nor my custom.

However, that's awesome.
 
#24
christw said:
There is actually no more string used when strung through instead of top loading. I just checked my old set and used the kinks in it to make sure. There's less than an inch of string under the bridge itself from kink (where it contacts the bridge coming through) to the ball.
Click to expand...

So I'm guessing the ball end must be anchored just below the surface of the bass body? Is it top-loading string-through? or back-loading with very deep holes?

[Invalid or Expired Link Removed] "The bridge is the exception to the chrome hardware rule. It's a Hipshot B-Style unit in black with chrome saddles, a detail that looks far cooler than it sounds. As it's a 'semi string-through-body' unit you can top-load the strings or anchor them just below the surface of the front via the ferrules provided."

So with just 1 inch from ball to saddle, the minimum for any bass, the winding extends beyond the nut by it's maximum amount, and still ends just before the tuner post on a 34" bass. This is therefore the optimum single winding length that fits both 34" and 35".
 
#25
ixlramp said:
So I'm guessing the ball end must be anchored just below the surface of the bass body? Is it top-loading string-through? or back-loading with very deep holes?

[Invalid or Expired Link Removed] "The bridge is the exception to the chrome hardware rule. It's a Hipshot B-Style unit in black with chrome saddles, a detail that looks far cooler than it sounds. As it's a 'semi string-through-body' unit you can top-load the strings or anchor them just below the surface of the front via the ferrules provided."

So with just 1 inch from ball to saddle, the minimum for any bass, the winding extends beyond the nut by it's maximum amount, and still ends just before the tuner post on a 34" bass. This is therefore the optimum single winding length that fits both 34" and 35".
Click to expand...
If it's the bridge they are talking about in the pic, that's the Hipshot B as stated. I think Carvin uses mostly the A bridge now. Not sure if it's different for string through. The last part is the most important point though. Carvin gets it.
 
#26
ixlramp said:
So I'm guessing the ball end must be anchored just below the surface of the bass body? Is it top-loading string-through? or back-loading with very deep holes?

[Invalid or Expired Link Removed] "The bridge is the exception to the chrome hardware rule. It's a Hipshot B-Style unit in black with chrome saddles, a detail that looks far cooler than it sounds. As it's a 'semi string-through-body' unit you can top-load the strings or anchor them just below the surface of the front via the ferrules provided."

So with just 1 inch from ball to saddle, the minimum for any bass, the winding extends beyond the nut by it's maximum amount, and still ends just before the tuner post on a 34" bass. This is therefore the optimum single winding length that fits both 34" and 35".
Click to expand...

That's correct for my bass. It's a bottom loading deep holed string through and it's pretty much taking up as little string bridge-side as it can.
 
#27
Thanks for posting your review ChristW. Glad you like the strings. As for the string lengths, we make all of our bass strings 38" from ball to the beginning of the silk thread on the peg end. At this length they fit most all 34, 35, and 36 inch scale lengths. This is actually becoming a common measurement in the bass string world.

Everyone has their own ideas on what affects string tone, sustain, intonation, etc. And believe me I've heard it all... one guy actually swears that the color of the silk thread affects the tone of the string. :-0

I am not saying that our strings will fit every non-short scale bass out there as there are so many variables these days. But the 38" length fits the largest majority... actually we have had no returns or complaints from customers on this issue.
 
#31
CSWStrings said:
...the 38" length fits the largest majority...
Click to expand...
This is not the case at all. Your definition of "fits" is the problem.
In all the different brand of string sets I have to install due to customer preference, almost every single major (and most non-major) brand stops their outer windings for B & E strings, for regular Long Scale (meant for 34" traditional style basses) at about the 36-36.5" (occasionally 37") point from the ball.
There is a reason for this as stated in my posts previous.
These basses make up at least 90% of the market if not more.

Your strings sound like they are very well constructed and very economical. But at a 38" inch winding, in an effort to appeal to everybody you've made your strings non-optimal for install and playability (i.e. now you have to kink the thick string around the tuning post and wait for that inevitable arc between the post and the nut to straighten for the string to be totally stable when played like a string with the proper leed only around the post would be) on 90+% of the basses out there. This string would be great for a string-through 35" Lakland55.

Sounds like you have an excellently made, economical product. It's just the market execution needs to be "tweeked".

And yes, those of you with the larger circumference Fender-style tuning posts will be less affected by this, but your gear/tuning ratio accuracy is still diminished.
 
#32
PhatBasstard said:
This is not the case at all. Your definition of "fits" is the problem.
Click to expand...

All good... if you prefer strings that are made shorter there certainty are plenty out there. We are making all of ours at 38" to keep costs down so we can ship great quality strings for cheap. And as I mentioned before we have had zero complaints or returns. Not saying you are wrong, just saying that the 38" length is working for us.
 
#33
Using TI Jazz Flats XL on a Lakland 55-94, through the body, The G string winding goes onto my gear post because it's closer to the nut than the standard "Fender 4-in-line" headstock. I have never had a problem soundwise due to this, and I've had the same set on and off various basses over three years. In fact, I even used an XL G on my Hofner Icon, which I feared, but having the strings wrap around the post a lot didn't affect it, either. Haven't tried Naked Strings, but I might.
 
#35
mccartneyman said:
Using TI Jazz Flats XL on a Lakland 55-94, through the body, The G string winding goes onto my gear post because it's closer to the nut than the standard "Fender 4-in-line" headstock. I have never had a problem soundwise due to this
Click to expand...

That's because the full gauge of a G is only .040-.050. Winding the full gauge of a string onto the tuner post is a problem for thick strings larger than (very roughly) .085.
 
#39
Just received 6 string bass set. I really like the fact that you can select the gauge that suits you, that is definitely unique and a very big selling point for me.

They are very smooth on the fingers, thereby allowing you to gains a little bit more speed and fluidity when playing. Sounds very even across the board.

I agree with phatbastard, in that there is way too much string on the b-string pass the nut, so i am left with a very fat winding around the tuning peg. No problems with the e string. That would me my only gripe, if only naked strings can address it. I think that most basses with b strings would have the tuning peg as the "first in line", unless you have an extended b headstock like a fodera, thereby the extra length is unnecessary.
 

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