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Naked Strings: First Impressions (Custom set .30 .45 .60 .85)

Never had any problems wrapping the wound sections of my E strings around their mini posts. I cut them a bit so I don't have a million windings around the post since it gets the most extra string length, and wind up (ha...ha) with most of the winding around the post being the fat part. They stay in tune just fine for me, generally in the neighborhood of a few weeks to a month or two if I'm not playing them heavily. I haven't noticed a problem with tuning accuracy, either; I can get them in tune just fine, and they're not absurdly (or even noticeably compared to the other strings) sensitive. Seen plenty of basses like this, too.

Not saying that PhatBasstard is wrong about the mechanics, but I've seen it on my fair share of basses and it hasn't ever been a problem for me.
 
Really? I've run short-scales with ultra-thick strings around the tuning posts, hasn't sounded any different from dedicated "short-scale" strings aside from the standard stuff you'd expect to hear from heavier strings.

I used long scale 100 chromes on all my medium and short scale basses, they worked great! The medium scale Hagstrom had tiny tuners, I think they where guitar tuners. No problems. And even with a fixed bridge the intonation was surprisingly good.
 
I like this longer low B thing! Would have been helpful on my 35" scale Schecter that couldn't use any D'Addario or Elixir strings because the windings didn't make it to the nut. It would also be interesting to see if these would fit my Dingwall.

I highly doubt this will be a serious issue.
D'Addario in the SL lengths.
The winding is "almost" too long for a 35", non-string through.
Can't imagine you bought the right D'Addario for your Schecter. :hmm:

Depends on your definition of "serious", but it is a tuning stability issue.
Who's ears can hear it is another story.
 
i think what's causing that much muting is that you might have twisted the b string a little when you put it on. either that or they're crappy strings. cellist is right...the winding around the post should have nothing to do with it.
FWIW, as long as there is sufficient downward pressure (vertical) at the nut, there should be no tone compromise.

This is a horizonal issue with the torque on the string being too great and the thick part of the string not being flexible enough to create a clean break angle from the post to the nut that will create optimum tuning stability when all other factors remain static.

If the string is coming off the post with the thick outer winding wrapped around, you can probably see a slight arc in the string from post to the nut. That arc is flexible because of this bowing (like a hunting bow), creating much more of a possiblility for slack than a straight, taut string between these two points.
Not only will this arc slowly straighten on it's own over time (6 years? :rolleyes:) causing your string to go slowly flat,
but the bigger issue is the instant slack that arc will give to the string just from the instant increased tension that fretting a note will cause, creating the slight tuning instability.
Your string is also less likely to return to stable open pitch when the fretted note is released because of the now lessened slack the arc has created.

This is why almost every major brand (and most not so major) sell there models in more than one scale length.
There is a reason everybody (else) doesn't try to do a one size fits all approach.

I do a lot of pro set ups, and it's always anything from mildly amusing to totally shocking what some (really excellent otherwise) players do (or miss) in doing their own set ups. And it's minutiae like this that is the difference between a bass that plays "good", and a bass that plays at "optimum".
 
you make a point or two, phat. it's not what you'd consider optimum to have the fat part wind the post. but a littl bit shouldn't be too bad about the tuning imho. i've made it work in the past.
 
you make a point or two, phat. it's not what you'd consider optimum to have the fat part wind the post. but a littl bit shouldn't be too bad about the tuning imho. i've made it work in the past.
No, it's not the end of the world.
But the one big point is that it shouldn't even have to be the start of it.
We're way beyond that. It's just short sighted.

Hey, a washtub, stick and a piece of twine has "worked" in the past. :hiding:;)
 
I think that's the 'guts' of it, i.e. this 'problem' should not be there in the first place.

Sure, I can find a way to live with it, but seriously?

Even 'affordable' manufacturers deal with this rather well.

In my case, it's the B-string, as the E string is much further along the headstock. Don't know if you're a 4 string player whether there's a problem with the E.

Everything is IMHO of course.
 
If the string windings going around the post is a big issue for you, I'd suggest avoiding these lower-priced, high quality, great sounding strings. I personally have NEVER had any tuning issues with the windings getting onto the posts, (I have a few basses with big Fender sized pegs and the smaller Gotoh tuners - all 4 stringers though) although I can fully appreciate where that could be an issue, especially on a big fat B string. But "OPTIMUM" length (for your bass, or several others) is probably gonna make the cost go up, and I like the price where it is now.

I'm really liking the Naked Strings!
 
..."OPTIMUM" length (for your bass, or several others) is probably gonna make the cost go up...

There seem to be other "budget" strings out there doing it right (scale length).
I guess it depends on how much "optimum" is important to you.

I look at my basses like a sports car. I don't have something like this just to put the cheap, non-optimum accessories on it.
Sure, I could put Joe Blow's new budget tires, that are every bit as good quality wise as my current tires, on my car and save a little money.
But the optimum tires for my car's set up are 16"...
...Joe's tires only come in a 17" size.

Sure they'll work. Sure they're cheaper. I may not perceive a difference most of the time.
But what's that sound when I make a really sharp turn and why am I getting pulled over when my speedometer says I'm doing the limit?

Maybe you "play" a dumptruck.

(Disclaimer: I'm guessing on the car's tire size. ;) )
 
I guess if an E string is firmly crimped into shape around the post (and so in a straight line from post to nut) and doesn't break, it may work reasonably well, it may not cause any obvious tuning problems, it just won't be as good as it could be. The result will be reduced tuner ratio creating a more sensitive tuning response, and increased torque stress on the tuner. Since the string now has more leverage on the post, the tuner becomes a less rigid anchoring point for the string, which could reduce the tone quality a little.

I'm a perfectionist so I wouldn't be happy with such a set-up, but most bassists are not as perfectionist as I am ;)
 
There seem to be other "budget" strings out there doing it right (scale length).
I guess it depends on how much "optimum" is important to you.

I look at my basses like a sports car. I don't have something like this just to put the cheap, non-optimum accessories on it.
Sure, I could put Joe Blow's new budget tires, that are every bit as good quality wise as my current tires, on my car and save a little money.
But the optimum tires for my car's set up are 16"...
...Joe's tires only come in a 17" size.

Sure they'll work. Sure they're cheaper. I may not perceive a difference most of the time.
But what's that sound when I make a really sharp turn and why am I getting pulled over when my speedometer says I'm doing the limit?

Maybe you "play" a dumptruck.

(Disclaimer: I'm guessing on the car's tire size. ;) )

Then why are you here whining about the cheap strings? Go somewhere else and get your "sports car" parts. It's like you're standing in the middle of a Pep Boys whining that they don't have the correct spark plugs for your Ferarri. There are, as you stated, plenty of other "budget" companies that make 'em.

FTR, I prefer to think of my basses as tools...
 
Then why are you here whining about the cheap strings? Go somewhere else and get your "sports car" parts. It's like you're standing in the middle of a Pep Boys whining that they don't have the correct spark plugs for your Ferarri. There are, as you stated, plenty of other "budget" companies that make 'em.

FTR, I prefer to think of my basses as tools...
Not "whining",
but if they're just tools for you,
I guess you're more in the Earl the Sanitation Guy camp than the Jimmie Johnson camp. Fine. Enjoy your dump truck.

Take your own advice.
If you don't like the "discussion" (TalkBass, hello?!?), go somewhere else where the details aren't so taxing.
 
Wow! I have not been on here in awhile and look what I have missed! Apparently someone has determined that we make "Budget" strings and that I'm "full of it" or "deluding myself". :-) I guess that's to be expected when entering the forums as the world is infested with Haters.

The truth is that our "Budget" strings are made from the same materials supplied by the same wire suppliers and with similar winding techniques as the rest of the American string manufacturers. If you need to pay $40 to $60 a set to boost your ego than by all means continue. But we will keep making Professional quality strings and selling them at wholesale prices to the public. If you do not get that, totally cool. Just please move on and give your money to another string company's marketing department. The response to our products has been overwhelming since we launched in September and we are now shipping orders to every corner of the world. Thank you to everyone for the support.
 
Here are a picture of my Labella 760FLs on my P bass:

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And a closeup of the E string:

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These strings are about 6 years old. I was really hoping to get at least 10 years out of them... I hope I don't start having tuning problems.

I ordered a few sets they sound pretty good - nice that you can spec your own gauges.

Last Photo: Are you suppose to have your strings that deep in the nut?
 
1. You have larger post Fender tuners.
2. The longer the string is on the more stable it will become as it settles in. I don't want to wait 6 years.
3. You're playing flats. The intonation probably isn't great anyway. :smug::D;)

Let's think about this kids:
If it wasn't a non-optimum issue, why would they bother to put a leader on the thicker strings at all.
Seems it would be easier and cheaper not to have to do this.

1. P bass for the win!

2. These strings where super stable from the start. I would go months between turning a tuner when I kept the bass in a hard shell case. Again, P basses for the win.

3. I am not super critical about intonation. If it is within a couple of cents that is good enough for me.
 
I ordered a few sets they sound pretty good - nice that you can spec your own gauges.

Last Photo: Are you suppose to have your strings that deep in the nut?

Probably not. But I love the playability of this bass and don't want to mess with the mojo :p

Seriously, everybody who has played the bass raves about it. I don't want to mess with a good thing.
 
The truth is that our "Budget" strings are made from the same materials supplied by the same wire suppliers and with similar winding techniques as the rest of the American string manufacturers.

Any chance you will offer flats for bass? I realize it would double the bass strings you would have to carry, so I won't hold it against you if you don't.
 
Any chance you will offer flats for bass? I realize it would double the bass strings you would have to carry, so I won't hold it against you if you don't.

Hey Seanm,

We are in the process of making Stainless Steel Roundwounds now and are scheduled to launch them next month. I do see us getting into flats and tapered B's and E's sometime next year. Stay tuned!