Need help keeping my necks straight.

[lethargytartare]

Live in CO which had low humidity. I think it’s contributing to my necks warping (both twisting and bowing). My guitar tech thinks it’s a combo of the low humidity and string tension.

Not all neck are made the same. What are some that have had the problem?

 

[s_wood]

Live in CO which had low humidity. I think it’s contributing to my necks warping (both twisting and bowing). My guitar tech thinks it’s a combo of the low humidity and string tension.

I’m guessing that OP has forced-air heat at home, and if so that’s the problem. The relative humidity on the Front Range in Colorado in the winter - outside- is typically around 50%-55%. But the relative humidity in a house with forced air heat and no humidifier is usually 20%-25%. Guitar makers routinely recommend that guitars be kept in a place where the humidity is 40%-50%.

Here’s why: when the humidity is very low, the wood in the neck and fingerboard lose moisture and contracts, which tends to cause the neck to lose relief. Then, when it gets warmer and the heating season ends the humidity in the house goes up, the wood absorbs water and expands, which adds relief. So, at least where I live, I expect to have to tweak my truss rods at the beginning and end of the indoor heat season. My tech finally convinced me to buy a humidifier for the room where I keep my basses and it’s made a huge difference. Unlike some others, I haven’t really found that storing my basses on stands or cases makes any difference, but the humidifier absolutely does.

 

[Wasnex]

I suggest taking steps to reduce seasonal humidity swings.

All of my basses are fine except my #1. #1 is a single trussrod Yamaha TRB6P. I bought it used in the mid 90s, with a cracked fretboard that had been repaired. It was relatively stable until I moved to the mid-west, where humidity in my house was ranging from below 10% to over 60%. Here the neck started moving so much that 4 or more trussrod adjustments were required every year. The crack opened up to about 1/64" and eventually the nut on the trussrod started getting really hard to turn

First step was to install a bypass humidifier on the air handler of my heat pump. I would estimate this increased humidity about 2%. It doesn't work well because heat pumps use a very small temperature differential. I have read that running the humidifier off hot water will make it more effective.

Next step was to install a 50pt humidifier that I run in the basement. This typically keep humidity below 50%, but on rare occasion it may still rise into the 50s. I believe I set the humidifier to 45%. If I set it to 40% or lower it runs constantly, rather than cycling on and off

The final thing I have done is buy three Venta 45 Comfort Plus humidifiers. This is the second winter I have run them. The humidity usually stays above 30%. On rare occasion it has dipped into the mid to high 20s. I set the Ventas to 35%. If I set them higher, they run constantly rather than cycling. I think I had to reduce this to 30% last winter because we had more severe cold.

The bass is way more stable and the crack in the fretboard appears closed at the moment. The neck is still moving but I haven't adjusted the truss rod for about a year.

You can also use case humidifier. The following recommendations are based on reviews...I have not used these products so please do your own research. Some work using water and some work through a chemical process.

For water I suggest looking at: Home Oasis

Oasis uses distilled water with replaceable gel to enhance performance.

For chemical take a look at: Humidipak Humidity Control Packs | D’Addario
and

Shop All

Boveda products include two-way humidity control products for cannabis, tobacco, hemp, wood instruments, and more.

store.bovedainc.com

 

[Bar Band Bassman]

Yeah, crazy winter. I have 30 year old basses that had fret sprout for the first time ever!

BBB

 

[Gervais Cote]

Not all neck are made the same. What are some that have had the problem?

The worst necks I saw were made of maple that wasn’t old enough or not kiln dried made in a country that has no winter and high humidity and then shipped in Canada during winter where the humidity is very low.

 

[Zooberwerx]

The worst necks I saw were made of maple that wasn’t old enough or not kiln dried made in a country that has no winter and high humidity and then shipped in Canada during winter where the humidity is very low.

All-too-frequently, it's an expansion / contraction conflict between the fingerboard and host neck....for example, a rosewood board on a poly-finished neck.

Riis

 

[bassdude51]

I live in Ohio and we have high humidity but during the winter with the furnace running, the humidity can drop down really, really low like about 15%. So, the wife and I have a humidifier on the furnace and try to keep the house at about 40% to 50% humidity. (If the outside temps get around 20 F or lower, we have to turn the humidity down or there is too much condensation on the windows.

IME, during the winter, the colder temps cause my necks to straighten and during the summer the warmer temps cause them to bow a little bit. So, I have my truss rods adjust to a happy medium for both winter and summer and I don't have to mess with the t rods adjustments. I have Fender Basses.

I recommend a humidifier if you don't have one. Not only good for your basses but good for your health also. (You can get a home humidity gauge at the store for about $15,)

 

[Crackle]

I make truss rod adjustments every day. Sometimes more than once per day. I even keep an adjustment tool within reach onstage for adjustments during shows.

 

[pepj]

Would be interesting to know if wood quality was also a factor.
I'm a believe that the maker needs a solid source of quality wood...getting harder to find by the year..and therefore, that wood becomes more and more expensive.

 

[epic!]

Do you humidify your room at all?

Not that particular room but I think I’ll start.

 

[FunkHead]

I have said this before but people seem to do way too many Truss Rod adjustments. If you have a relief that's within Spec, then there's no need to adjust the truss rod. It's much better to tweak the saddles even if it's a little more work.

Also, Keeping the action a little higher will help immensely. That extra tension against the truss rod will give it stability and eventually you should be able to not have to make adjustments at all. My basses stay playable year round and I live in the Northeast.

The lower the action and straighter you keep the neck, the more it's going to want to move.

 

[s_wood]

The lower the action and straighter you keep the neck, the more it's going to want to move.

Not to be quarrelsome, but the neck of the given bass will move the same amount during humidity swings regardless of the relief that’s dialed in and the string height. But it’s absolutely true that if your action is a little bit higher you won’t have any noticeable problems if the neck moves a bit. And it’s also true that some necks move more than others. I don’t think it’s a quality thing, necessarily. For instance, my Gibson Rippers are rock stable, but my Alembic necks move… some more than others.

Unfortunately, I like low action (2/32” on the G string and 3/32” on the E string at the 12rh fret) and a pretty flat neck. That’s what feels good to me, plus low action is pretty critical for the tone I’m looking for. So, if the neck moves just a little bit I’ll get buzzing. So, out comes the truss rod wrench twice a year. Part of the gig…

The bottom line is if you live in a place where the humidity swings a lot you have three choices: tweak your trust Rod, buy a humidifier for the place where you store your basses or raise your action a tad. Oh, and then there’s graphite necks…

 

[lug]

I live in a swamp, my necks stay perfect.

 

[bigdaddybass12]

My maple neck P bass needed a bit of truss rod adjustment this winter.
My Ibanez with the 5 piece neck didn't need any.

Seems that laminated necks are more stable.

 

[MidlifeBeginner]

Seems that laminated necks are more stable.

Yes, it is how Ibanez is able to go soo thin. Laminated wood is stronger than a single solid piece. The neck is thin, but very stable.

Jackson uses internal carbon fiber rods to allow a thin neck from one piece of maple.

My maple P bass is pretty stable. It is two piece maple, a maple fretboard laminated onto a maple neck. It just isn't as stable as the Ibanez 5 piece neck.

 

[wboyd68]

Phoenix are here. I have had zero neck issues with my American Pro Jazz or P bass.

 

[RattleSnack]

Just to second previous posts: laminated necks are more stable. Thicker neck is also, obviously, more stable than thin. Also, when fingerboard pores are closed in some way (like maple with poly finish), whole neck is more stable since fingerboard doesn't loose/gain moisture.

 

[epic!]

Not all neck are made the same. What are some that have had the problem?

Dunable yeti and a LTD GB-4.

 

[GTHintz]

All I can say is if your relief moves with the temperature and humidity changes that's completely normal. They've been doing that since the dawn of time. They shouldn't really twist on you especially if you keep your strings in tune and don't store the bass on its headstock in the case or something stupid. I've lived in a harsh climate myself with a desert climate at altitude so I see my necks moving around a bit but it's never gone too out of hand. Even with my cheap bolt on basses I've owned. A couple basses don't even have a bag or case for them and they still hold up well.

 

[The Bass Nerd]

An aluminum neck wouldn’t warp. Aluminati makes them hollowed out with carbon fiber fretboards and they are great necks:

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Bruh....