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Need help wiring replacement high-pass filter for Avatar cabinet mod
- Thread starter daveman50
- Start date
That mid is a sealed back . The attenuaror that comes with the Avatar is a 15 watt . It will work for a while if you leave it cranked up most of the way but if you want to adjust the mid much you should replace it with a 100 watt one like this .
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It will wire up the same as the one in your cab now . They use the most power when they are turned down some .
[Invalid or Expired Link Removed]
It will wire up the same as the one in your cab now . They use the most power when they are turned down some .
Passinwind
I know nothing.
- Dec 3, 2003
- 23,069
- 46,010
- Disclosures
- Designer/Toaster Tech @ Passinwind Electronics
Well... it's done. Here's a photo of the modified "crossover" completed & installed (thanks to everyone), and the completed cabinet (without the grill).
Sounds great.
Two problems. (1) the L-pad won't turn. I know the midrange is on, but I can't adjust it. (2) According to the 2 posts above, the L-pad I have is crap and not suitable.
(Note, you can clearly see the "15w" marking on the L-pad.) If I'd known that in advance, I would've added it to my Parts Express order and wouldn't have to pay for shipping twice.... 
(I'm enjoying the emoticons. Probly more than you are.)
Sounds great.
Two problems. (1) the L-pad won't turn. I know the midrange is on, but I can't adjust it. (2) According to the 2 posts above, the L-pad I have is crap and not suitable.
(Note, you can clearly see the "15w" marking on the L-pad.) If I'd known that in advance, I would've added it to my Parts Express order and wouldn't have to pay for shipping twice.... (I'm enjoying the emoticons. Probly more than you are.)
Attachments
Passinwind
I know nothing.
- Dec 3, 2003
- 23,069
- 46,010
- Disclosures
- Designer/Toaster Tech @ Passinwind Electronics
Do you have a multimeter? You could check the current L-pad setting and with luck maybe just do away with the L-pad completely. Do you happen to know what model woofer is in your cab?
Looks like you did it right , good job . I'll bet it does sound better with that mid in there , I've used them in a few cabs too although not without a horn .
Since your attenuator is stuck you probably don't know if it is turned up all the way or not but you could try bypassing the attenuator and land the +wire straight from the mid to the crossovers T+ output to see if you need to turn it down at all . That mid should be a little hotter than the Delta LF but you might like the sound of it without the attenuator , that would save you buying a new one plus shipping . You should try taking the knob off the attenuator and the nut and pull it loose from the jack plate to see if maybe you can free it up with it not bolted in too .
Edit ,Passinwind beat me to it .
Since your attenuator is stuck you probably don't know if it is turned up all the way or not but you could try bypassing the attenuator and land the +wire straight from the mid to the crossovers T+ output to see if you need to turn it down at all . That mid should be a little hotter than the Delta LF but you might like the sound of it without the attenuator , that would save you buying a new one plus shipping . You should try taking the knob off the attenuator and the nut and pull it loose from the jack plate to see if maybe you can free it up with it not bolted in too .
Edit ,Passinwind beat me to it .
That's what I gone & done. I wasn't getting enough of the mid with the crappy L-pad. Going straight through, as you predicted, there's definitely an upper mid emphasis, but it's quite musical, and malleable with amp & bass tone controls. A huge, huge improvement over the tweeter, which basically added nothing but hiss, and left a hole in the upper-mid range. I'll live with it for a while & see.
I know my drummer will like it; he's always complaining that I need more upper mids. (I suspect that's where his hearing is going....)
Thanks to everyone who chimed in. I picked up this cabinet used & cheap a long time ago & I've been thinking about doing this mod for several years. With your help, it was easy and it's very worthwhile.
I'm trying to do the same mod the OP did, but I'm getting confused about the wiring. Am I supposed to remove the filter that is attached to the original board? (The one with all the hot glue on it). How do I power both speakers with just the new 1k6 high pass filter, when there are only 2 leads (one T+ and one T-)? Can someone please show me a wiring diagram that does not include the L-pad? Or at least a picture of the finished wiring? I don't want to fry my circuitry. Thanks.
Those attenuators will often freeze when they are overpowered. If it's stuck, it's fried. You need a lot bigger than 15 watts.
I was planning on removing the attenuator entirely, which is what the OP did with good results. But I'm really confused about how to wire everything up without the L-Pad.
When 1958Bassman says to remove the yellow capacitor, which one does he mean? I see two on my board, one 4.7 uF, and one 10 uF. The OP's picture of the wiring, which is before he removed the L-Pad, looks like he took the whole top piece off, which means removing both capacitors...
1958Bassman means the one on the jackplate. You wire from the woofer (which electrically should be the same as + - on the jack plate) to IN- and IN +, then wire from T- and T+ to your midrange.
Everything connected to the foster horn still in there needs to be removed. You could leave all of that connected together, so later you could still use it again - hopefully you won't have to.
If you take the L-pad out of the jack plate, be sure and plug the hole, or the whistle will drive you nuts.
Everything connected to the foster horn still in there needs to be removed. You could leave all of that connected together, so later you could still use it again - hopefully you won't have to.
If you take the L-pad out of the jack plate, be sure and plug the hole, or the whistle will drive you nuts.
So I take the whole top part (with 2 yellow capacitors, 2 inductors, and 2 unknown white blocks) completely off? Then I take the red/black wires (after cutting them away from the aforementioned top part) that connect to the woofer, and connect them to the IN+ and IN- of the high pass filter? And then wire from the T- and T+ of the high pass filter to the midrange speaker? That can't be right, since I would be completely skipping the XLR plug that would power it...
I am so confused still. Why did I butcher my cab without knowing how to fix it? I wish I paid more attention in physics lab. If the OP would post a pic of his finished wiring, or some sort of diagram, I'd be eternally grateful.
I am so confused still. Why did I butcher my cab without knowing how to fix it? I wish I paid more attention in physics lab. If the OP would post a pic of his finished wiring, or some sort of diagram, I'd be eternally grateful.
Thanks so much, this looks like exactly what I needed. I will try to wire it up sometime today hopefully.
I already physically removed the L-Pad. Should I put it back in, so I can connect the ground part? Also, my cab also has a Speakon input that I use exclusively, between the L-Pad and the two 1/4" inputs. How would I wire it in order to use the Speakon connector?
no.
The speakon will have a + and - lead just like a 1/4"; just wire it up as in the diagram (ignore the wiring to the 2nd input). Very simple.
I finally wired it up like in your diagram. Seems to be working OK. Thanks a lot for your help. Should I be able to hear a slight buzzing (when my ear is a foot away from the 6" speaker)?
