Really nice body design bro, i cant help looking at it again and again. may be you should put it in mass production. 
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New build headless 6 string singlecut
- Thread starter scottyd
- Start date
I made a little progress today. Not as much as I wanted but good enough I guess.
My Morado aka Pau ferro aka Bolivian rosewood fingerboard is slotted and rough tapered I also got the neck joint ready.
Here is the channel I routed in the fingerboard for the fiber-optics side markers to run through. Hopefully I will get those installed tonight. I have had several requests to explain how I do the markers, its pretty easy and I'll try to get plenty of pictures to help explain better.
Neck glued in. You can never use too many clamps thats what I always say....J/k
My Morado aka Pau ferro aka Bolivian rosewood fingerboard is slotted and rough tapered I also got the neck joint ready.
Here is the channel I routed in the fingerboard for the fiber-optics side markers to run through. Hopefully I will get those installed tonight. I have had several requests to explain how I do the markers, its pretty easy and I'll try to get plenty of pictures to help explain better.
Neck glued in. You can never use too many clamps thats what I always say....J/k
I did a little carving on the tummy cut and neck joint, it still has a ways to go but it’s getting there. I'm not really into the whole "tone plate" thing but it seems to be pretty popular so I included a bubinga one on this bass. Who knows maybe it’ll help sell it! I’m going to thin it down more than what’s shown.
Looks real good!
What I would want to see is how front led markers are done, since I don't have 700 € for a status graph. jazz neck with leds
What I would want to see is how front led markers are done, since I don't have 700 € for a status graph. jazz neck with leds
Looks real good!
What I would want to see is how front led markers are done, since I don't have 700 € for a status graph. jazz neck with leds
I doubt it would be very hard. I've checked up on it, but I have not done them. I really don’t have any desire either for that matter. To me they are kind of gaudy and I really don’t like changing batteries that often. That, of course is just my opinion.
I've pretty much finished running the fibers in the board but for the most part my camera won’t take any good shots.
I started by routing a channel down the backside of the board it started out 3/16"w x 2mm deep this went to the 12 fret where I changed to 1/4" x3mm deep. Then at about the 19th fret I went to 3/8 x 3mm to the end of the channel at about the 24th fret. The channel is about 1" from the edge of the board all the way down.
On the sides of the boards I marked out where all the markers will be. I drilled 2mm holes from the side just deep enough to meet with the channel. I filled the 2mm holes with hollow tubes of clear plastic material. These were glued in like normal. In the center of the tubes I glued in little glass beads that my wife usually uses to make jewelry with. These are an amber color and have just the right size hole in the middle for the fibers to run through. This is the first time I've used this method, I usually just run the fibers by them self. The only problem with that method is if your LED battery dies your left without markers. The way I did it tonight eliminates that problem. Also the glass beads illuminate and make the fibers even brighter in appearance.
The fibers are pushed through the center hole in the beads on the side of the board and bent at a 90 degree angle (Don’t worry they can take it!) then ran down the previously routed channel on the back side of the board. Each fiber is glued down as it is run. I use a little epoxy in the channel. I use little pieces of paper to hold the fiber down while the glue dries to keep a little pressure on them and keep my fingers from sticking. On the side of the board I put a drop if CA on each marker and allow it to setup. The manufacturer recommends against using CA as it may melt the fibers. This has not happened to me yet, because I use it thinned, and very little of it. I have experimented with Ca on bends and stuff and well the results were not favorible. Once the glue cures I level all the markers down to the board very carefully with a fine file.
On the back of the board the routed channel and exposed fibers are covered with a mixture of Titebond and sawdust to make the channel solid again. The fibers will be ran through the pup hole then to the control cavity where they will be meet with a single LED bulb. Battery power will be shared with the preamp but power consumption will be at a minimum because the circuit for the led will be wired in with a resistor to knock down the voltage to a little more than 2 volts
Here I've got all the fibers in. If you look carefully you can see them sticking out on the side marker side of the board.
Here you can see all of the fibers at the end of the board. I used the paper to hold the fibers down while the glue set up and to act as a barrier between the glue and my skin!
Also on the bass by the truss slot you can see the pocket I drilled out that the fibers will go into. From there they will go into a channel into the pup hole then another channel into the control cavity.
The channel filled.
Here are the fibers lit up off of a light bulb. It’s hard to get good pictures of them with my camera. I took six shots and they all blurred. I'll get better ones when the bass nears completion.
I started by routing a channel down the backside of the board it started out 3/16"w x 2mm deep this went to the 12 fret where I changed to 1/4" x3mm deep. Then at about the 19th fret I went to 3/8 x 3mm to the end of the channel at about the 24th fret. The channel is about 1" from the edge of the board all the way down.
On the sides of the boards I marked out where all the markers will be. I drilled 2mm holes from the side just deep enough to meet with the channel. I filled the 2mm holes with hollow tubes of clear plastic material. These were glued in like normal. In the center of the tubes I glued in little glass beads that my wife usually uses to make jewelry with. These are an amber color and have just the right size hole in the middle for the fibers to run through. This is the first time I've used this method, I usually just run the fibers by them self. The only problem with that method is if your LED battery dies your left without markers. The way I did it tonight eliminates that problem. Also the glass beads illuminate and make the fibers even brighter in appearance.
The fibers are pushed through the center hole in the beads on the side of the board and bent at a 90 degree angle (Don’t worry they can take it!) then ran down the previously routed channel on the back side of the board. Each fiber is glued down as it is run. I use a little epoxy in the channel. I use little pieces of paper to hold the fiber down while the glue dries to keep a little pressure on them and keep my fingers from sticking. On the side of the board I put a drop if CA on each marker and allow it to setup. The manufacturer recommends against using CA as it may melt the fibers. This has not happened to me yet, because I use it thinned, and very little of it. I have experimented with Ca on bends and stuff and well the results were not favorible. Once the glue cures I level all the markers down to the board very carefully with a fine file.
On the back of the board the routed channel and exposed fibers are covered with a mixture of Titebond and sawdust to make the channel solid again. The fibers will be ran through the pup hole then to the control cavity where they will be meet with a single LED bulb. Battery power will be shared with the preamp but power consumption will be at a minimum because the circuit for the led will be wired in with a resistor to knock down the voltage to a little more than 2 volts
Here I've got all the fibers in. If you look carefully you can see them sticking out on the side marker side of the board.
Here you can see all of the fibers at the end of the board. I used the paper to hold the fibers down while the glue set up and to act as a barrier between the glue and my skin!
Also on the bass by the truss slot you can see the pocket I drilled out that the fibers will go into. From there they will go into a channel into the pup hole then another channel into the control cavity. The channel filled.
Here are the fibers lit up off of a light bulb. It’s hard to get good pictures of them with my camera. I took six shots and they all blurred. I'll get better ones when the bass nears completion.
That's very cool Scott. Are you using multi strand communications fiber and stripping the jacket or do you have a source for raw fiber material?
Thanks, its .75mm unjacketed material from these guys.
Invalid Link Removed
I usually order 40' which comes out to right at about 10 bucks. Thats enough fiber to do at least 2 fingerboards.
what a beauty! the next bass i do will have led fret markers from these guys as well, have u considered trying the kit they sell?
Well thanks to a blunder I made by not ordering any truss rod nuts the bass has to sit Idle until next weekend. I really wanted to get the fingerboard glued on this week but it will have to wait. In the meantime I think I'm going to actually play one of these things for a change. 
Musiclogic
Commercial User
- Aug 6, 2005
- 6,505
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- Owner/Builder: HJC Customs USA, The Cool Lute, C G O
It's the term used for a neck shim, or a neck heel build-up lamination, that is used when you want to increase your pricing and /or want to sound as though you have a lock on the sacred knowledge of the affect of different species of woods on tone.
the term, that is. not the use of the wood. I call it a transition block. I use it because a) it's attractive, and b) I can use a thinner piece of wood for the neck without much waste.
