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New DIY Bass Pre (from Runoffgroove.com)

does moderated mean someone did a bad? just curious

Got everything needed but could only find 2N5089 instead of 2N5088.
gain: 2N5089 = 450, 2N5088 = 350
don't think that will make that much of a difference, but could someone let me know if they think it will.
Has anyone made this yet? Possible sound clips
 
That's not weird at all. I wish I had more of a brain for that side of things so that I really understood what was going on in the circuit. I have a rudimentary understanding, but it's just not my area of expertise. Maybe one day I'll have the time to really study up on this stuff. Until then, I'll be hoping that folks like you can answer my questions!
 
You people and your schematic reading! I wish I understood half of it!

Should point out that I only understood what father of fire meant because of what I read whilst doing research about whether or not that transitor would work. I know I still have a lot to learn but half the battle was getting over the hump of thinking I couldn't learn it. Best of luck to all of those just starting and a great deal of thanks to those that share what they already know.
 
I finally got my Ginger project working. I'd have to say that I learned some lessons from building this project. Whenever I do another pedal project, I'll make sure that I order the enclosure first so that I can account for the layout of the pots, battery, and jacks.

I decided to go with the redesigned schematic layout from the DIY Stompbox forum (Invalid Link Removed). Below is the redesigned schematic...

[Invalid or Expired Link Removed]

Using a schematic layout program, I copied the schematic as shown above. I decided early on that I would get the 3pdt PCB-mount style switch as my true-bypass. This meant modifying the PCB design to include the schematic for a true-bypass switch ([Invalid or Expired Link Removed]).

My first run at etching my board for the normal 2.54mm spacing was good, but the choice of drill bits I chose caused another issue. I live in a small town, and the smallest bit I could obtain was a 1/16 inch bit. This meant that the PCB holes were bigger than normal, so it required more solder to make the connections. This caused some spillover to other connections on the board because of the smaller design. So, I redesigned the layout to make the spacing larger - making my board bigger. While it still fit in the 1590BB enclosure, it made things tight for the jacks and other stuff.

But before I put the circuit into the enclosure, I tested the project out and found that I didn't get sound coming out. The culprit was a diode that was shorted to another component (excessive solder again). Much time was saved though by utilizing the method described Invalid Link Removed. I was able to trace the signal throughout the circuit using their improvised audio probe (HIGHLY RECOMMENDED).

I have yet to adjust the voltages via the trimmer pots, as recommended on the RunOffGroove site. When I get that done, I will try to record some sound samples and post some pics of the final project. My amp is currently at my drummer's house, and my only test so far is through my headphones via a mixer board.
 
I just finished building a Ginger pedal using a PCB from frequencycentral. It's a huge upgrade over the Flipster pedal. The gain knob doesn't boost it into obnoxious territory like the Flipster. The Ginger in general seems to be much more natural and open sounding. I feel like the use of LED's as diodes must help a lot with that as it's suppose to keep the JFETs from clipping hard. If I get a chance, I'll try to record some samples. If you liked the Flipster but felt it wasn't quite right, definitely give the Ginger a try.
 

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