• TalkBass has been independent since 1998. Add your voice.
    Create a free account to reply to discussions, view embedded media, and browse with fewer display ads.
    Join freeLog in
    Want zero display ads or expanded classifieds tools? Compare plans.

New headless build… might be a long thread :-)

That's a beautiful set of instruments! But I've gotta know -- where are you getting all those Steinberger bridges?
It’s been a bit of a scavenger hunt.
  1. Bought Spirit new (2000?) played the crap out of it and finally replaced body
  2. Found on eBay 4 yrs ago
  3. Bought donor Spirit on Reverb (need to sell off the rest of the parts now)
Of course this is not sustainable, so I’m working on having someone mfg a version that I’m designing now. I’m planning to use those for all future builds. :)
 
Last edited:
I’m new to headless hardware. This is on eBay. Thoughts?
480F8D74-9722-435F-81FB-AF8BF5F3AB86.png


I’m looking at it because this is incoming:
21920D91-7D5E-4F87-94EB-8A39749A574C.png
 
There aren't too many headless hardware suppliers available sadly you have Hipshot, strandberg, steinberger/ns designs, ABM, Ets, Nova and maybe a few other lesser known brands at most I'd personally put nova at the top of the heap as far as price to quality is concerned. I got a mix of individual nova bridges and ABM string clamps for my 7 string build project because Nova only did solid one piece string clamps at the time I ordered and I was looking into doing a multi scale build and didn't want to have a gap behind my zero fret or nut on the build.
 
Well, there are several mfgs but there are several factors to consider as well.
  1. Do you want mono or one piece?
  2. Do you want the head piece to be clamped to the top of the neck or the end of the neck?
    1. Like Nova, ETS, ABM, Hipshot, other
  3. What material do you want, brass or aluminum?
My main preferences are brass, mainly for resonance, and I want the headpiece to be mounted at the end of the neck versus being clamped on top. This means the truss rod access is through the end of the neck versus having to carve it into the body. It’s just easier to get access to.

I had difficulty finding an end mounted headpiece that was 45mm wide versus 48. I got one from ABM but it was 48 which is not gonna work for any of my builds. So I ended up providing the dimensions and had someone build the headpieces for me, I’m super happy with them as they look and function great.

I’m also not really crazy about any of the current bridge designs, so I’m working on those to be built as well.
 
I’ve been playing this neck for several hours a day and I kept feeling like the first through the seventh frets could be thinner

So I carved it down significantly and resprayed. Wow, super happy with the neck profile now because it’s super thin and asymmetrically shaped. Definitely the most comfortable neck I’ve ever played.

So 45mins later…
40135876-FED3-400C-8B17-6488FA08E68E.jpeg
7799DD15-C8ED-40E9-BB27-367D2673AD0B.jpeg
74A25D18-BF70-4993-82E8-F2589AB712CB.jpeg

A4DC5B1D-2419-43FC-94B5-95D4836361EB.jpeg
E6B5394E-1CD2-4A84-9BF6-45C1ADE0A3B3.jpeg


And of course I did the same to the SC fretless version and refinished it already too. :woot:
90D96052-CA32-4B64-8D1A-4447B4A17FBE.jpeg
0BA86BC2-705B-40AE-A472-33530F47D1C6.jpeg
ADB88FAE-0EE5-4EF6-9B71-CB517F990403.jpeg
 
Last edited:
I’m new to headless hardware. This is on eBay. Thoughts?
View attachment 4835571

I’m looking at it because this is incoming:
View attachment 4835573
It’s probably worth moving your build questions to a new thread since you are definitely gonna have some issues outfitting that instrument with both a headpieces and a bridge.

First of all, you cannot use an “on top”headpiece like the nice one Nova provides (as being recommended by Snert) or many of the others since they require part of the headpiece to be partially left in tact to mount to the top. You will have to use one that bolts to the end of the neck since you have no headstock at all.

The other issue you’re gonna have is with that body, and where the current bridge is mounted if that is to scale which I’m assuming it is, you are going to have to route into the body to leave room for the tuners so you could actually use them.

You may even consider altering the back end of the body to open it up quite a bit so you could use a headless bridge.
C2147E93-669D-4897-B51D-0E4F57785E00.jpeg


Again, this should be on its own thread.
 
Last edited:
I’m new to headless hardware. This is on eBay. Thoughts?
View attachment 4835571

I’m looking at it because this is incoming:
View attachment 4835573


I doubt that bridge is licensed in any fashion. I haven’t used those but I also haven’t read anything good about them. I’ll cast another vote for Nova. @Passini is a member here . Good hardware. You can pick individual bridges or several individual units on a plate.

Keep in mind you need room under the back of the bridge to get your fingers around the tuning knob and rotate it. You’ll have to route behind the bridge for clearance or keep the current bridge where it is and move the tuners to the end of the body and let the knobs hang off and run the strings through the bridge to the tuners.
 
It’s probably worth moving your build questions to a new thread since you are definitely gonna have some issues outfitting that instrument with both a headpieces and a bridge.

First of all, you cannot use an “on top”headpiece like the nice one Nova provides (as being recommended by Snert) or many of the others since they require part of the headpiece to be partially left in tact to mount to the top. You will have to use one that bolts to the end of the neck since you have no headstock at all.

The other issue you’re gonna have is with that body, and where the current bridge is mounted if that is to scale which I’m assuming it is, you are going to have to route into the body to leave room for the tuners so you could actually use them.

You may even consider altering the back end of the body to open it up quite a bit so you could use a headless bridge.
View attachment 4836215

Again, this should be on its own thread.
Thanks! At this point I’m just gathering info and looking at options. I haven’t received the bass yet, and it may require the neck to be reset.

The end of the neck will need to be cut back for a scarf joint whether I replace the peghead or go headless.

I assumed I would need to alter the back of the body for the bridge. It is a 34 inch scale.

If I do go the headless route, agreed it’s worth a dedicated thread.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Barticus
I doubt that bridge is licensed in any fashion. I haven’t used those but I also haven’t read anything good about them. I’ll cast another vote for Nova. @Passini is a member here . Good hardware. You can pick individual bridges or several individual units on a plate.

Keep in mind you need room under the back of the bridge to get your fingers around the tuning knob and rotate it. You’ll have to route behind the bridge for clearance or keep the current bridge where it is and move the tuners to the end of the body and let the knobs hang off and run the strings through the bridge to the tuners.
Thanks, that’s something I was thinking about - putting tuners behind the bridge.