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New L2500 Probs

T

Theosbass

Jan 8, 2009
17
0
Oklahoma
#1
Hey I just joined today from the link on G&L's site.
I bought a L2500 the first of Oct. and i've really enjoyed playing it.
I plugged in last week and when I went for my active high, it wasnt there. When I got home I replaced the battery even though the one in there past the lick test. Still no sound... except when I connect or disconnect the battery while the active switch was on. Then my amp popped as it touched. This was the first time I had the cover off and I haven't dropped or abused the guitar. It worked great the session before , now nothing!
I contacted G&L about what to do but while waiting on an answer id love to figure this one out without sending it in.
Hope someone has a tip.

BOOMER,SOONER!!!!
 
#2
Response might be slow due to NAMM coming up. Shouldn't be, but realism has to be taken into account.

Does everything work in passive mode? EQ and all? How about when you pull the battery?

If everything works as it should passive or sans battery, then the preamp might be heading south or you might have a bad active/passive switch.

Another thing: It's better to do your bass and preamp battery wrenching without the instrument plugged in to your amp. Probably won't hurt the bass, but your speakers and tweeter might be wondering what they did to deserve the shot. :D

Ken...
 
#3
Thanks first off for responding!
Yeah, it still works in passive. EQ also.
Wow if it is the pre amp I guess I got a lemon. At least I hope its a fluke cause it didnt last very long. I played it about 10 times.
BTW Yeah when I played with the battery the amp volume was @ 2, and it was my old PV not my good rig!
I did get a reply from G&L, they tell me I can send it in and they will determine if its warranty work or whatever. I wonder what thats gonna cost me . OK. to CA:hmm:
 
#4
Theosbass said:
Thanks first off for responding!
Yeah, it still works in passive. EQ also.
Wow if it is the pre amp I guess I got a lemon. At least I hope its a fluke cause it didnt last very long. I played it about 10 times.
BTW Yeah when I played with the battery the amp volume was @ 2, and it was my old PV not my good rig!
I did get a reply from G&L, they tell me I can send it in and they will determine if its warranty work or whatever. I wonder what thats gonna cost me . OK. to CA:hmm:
Click to expand...

Yeah, it sucks, but sometimes they die young and sometimes they go on forever. Such is life with electronics. It's actually a good thing when the go early because warranties are many times in effect.

If you are the original purchaser (with invoice), start with your dealer. It's their job, and part of their dealer agreement, to be your first line for warranty work.

Because it is a G&L and works just fine in passive mode, you are in the enviable position of getting it done at your convenience!

Ken...
 
#5
Thanks
Yeah I can still play it and thats good since I just joined a band. Unfortunately sounds like i'm gonna have to give it up for a while.
I'll sneak a couple of dates in before sending it off.
Also i'm past the 45 day warranty from where I bought it so I have one option warranty wise. Shipping it to G&L's tech.
I was real happy with my purchase , hopefully i'll have good things to say about my treatment from the manufacturer.
Theo
 
#8
I have a friend that bought a brand new Tribby L2.5K. I kinda pushed that direction. But his preamp died within a three weeks. It still works in passive mode. And the chip is soldered. He's not sending it back because it is a really great player. He did really well for a sight unseen purchase. The frets on this Indonesian build are much better than they are on my Korean one. The Korean fret ends are actually a bit of hazard they are so sharp.

At some point, he will pull the board, remove the chip, and solder in a socket. And I am working on a mod that protects the preamp. It will most likely be a single resistor in series with an existing AC coupling capacitor.

If you leave your bass in passive mode while you plug or unplug your instrument cable, you subject the opamp inputs to high frequency transients that there is no protection for. If the opamp goes completely south, you can lose passive mode to because the chip is still in the circuit in passive (only the output of the chip is not going to the jack). So in short, put your bass in active mode when plugging or unpluggying your instrument cable. This will place any "noise" on the well protected output side of the chip.
 
#9
DavePlaysBass said:
If you leave your bass in passive mode while you plug or unplug your instrument cable, you subject the opamp inputs to high frequency transients that there is no protection for. If the opamp goes completely south, you can lose passive mode to because the chip is still in the circuit in passive (only the output of the chip is not going to the jack). So in short, put your bass in active mode when plugging or unpluggying your instrument cable. This will place any "noise" on the well protected output side of the chip.
Click to expand...

Interesting. Would it matter if the cable is plugged into the amp first? I know this is backward, but still. Amp on? Amp off?

Ken...
 
#10
It seems it would be better to plug it in to the amp first and turn the amp on. If there was any static build up, the amp would discharge it first I believe. And if there where a transient associated with turning on the amp, that would be already done with. I am not sure it would make a huge difference but as long as were being careful :).
 
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