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New Traynor YBA 100!!

Absolutely! They're expensive, but a game changer as far as bass goes. I'm hoping that the tail on my 4005 is far enough back to let me use a set on it. The G string silk is a bit dicey on a 4003 already, so fingers crossed.

Jonas is a mad genius. He's done a ton of completely strange and amazing stuff in bass amplification, pickup design, string design, etc. He's also one of the most interesting virtuoso bassists out there. A completely out-of-the-box thinker. His work with Shawn Lane is mind-shatteringly good.
Update: The wound part of the G string goes a small way around the tuner barrel (1/4 of a turn), but otherwise, the Hellborg set fits the 4005XC just fine. And sounds glorious!
 
Very good news - EL34 beats KT88 (for me, in this case):
I told you that in the YBA-300 (very similar kind of output circuit) I had liked EL34 better than 6L6GC (by a large margin, for clarity in the lows), and even better than 6550s.

Now, fortunately, because I don't trust those adapters (as in the photo above) and because the extra height prevented the cover from being reinstalled, I tried those same JJ EL34II, and they seem to sound at least as good as the JJ KT-88s (in this case).

I'm biasing them at 25mA each (50%).
 
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Info:
The block diagram (in the YBA100-YBA300 Service Manual) shows Tuner Out as taking the signal right after the first tube (both halves I presume).
This is only true if the D.I. Pre/Post EQ button is pushed in (pre).
If Pre/Post EQ is out (post), Tuner Out includes the second tube (both halves), Gain, and EQ (the whole preamp).
 
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Info:
The block diagram (in the YBA100-YBA300 Service Manual) shows Tuner Out as taking the signal right after the first tube (both halves I presume).
This is only true if the D.I. Pre/Post EQ button is pushed in (pre).
If Pre/Post EQ is out (post), Tuner Out includes the second tube (both halves), Gain, and EQ (the whole preamp).
Great info but does it affect the tuner being able to tune in any way - ie does it make a practical difference?
 
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Most of the radiation leakage from a toroidal transformer is in the direction(s) of the axis through the hole in the middle.
I notice that the power supply transformer of the YBA100 is mounted so that this axis is vertical, not aimed at the preamp, while the YBA300 transformer's axis is horizontal and aimed lengthwise down the middle (including the inside of) the chassis.
I think the YBA100 is a lot quieter than the 300, and that might be one reason.
Another reason is that the ribbon cables are shorter.
But the main reason is probably that there is a lot less current sloshing around this less powerful amp. For my use case, bedroom/studio, the 100 is the better choice.
 
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I should say, in case you don't know, that toroidal transformers are a lot better about that in every other direction than the familiar (EI) transformers. How it compares right on that axis I don't know, but it can be neatly aimed away from the most sensitive circuits.

(Another example of a toroid potentially acting as an antenna, a receiving antenna in this case, is the mid (EQ) inductor in an SVT.)
 
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The YBA100 and YBA300, when turned up very high, produce a hard-edged, "metal" sounding distortion. I'm not saying that's bad; it's probably very useable for the right kind of music!

I'll tell you what I think about this. I think it's caused by overdriving the splitter section, which in these amps is done with op amps (solid state). So it's hard, symmetrical clipping followed by the driver tube, then power tubes, so it gets rounded some.
It might be designed this way to limit the signal to the power amp, to protect it.

There's at least one other amp that accomplishes this same thing with back-to-back zener diodes, definitely limiting the signal to the power amp. It probably has this "metal" mode too.

With other tube amps it could probably be done with a clipper pedal in the effects loop.

I don't mind if an expert tells me I'm wrong.

I never turn up that high. I'll just stay below that mode.
 
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Slight tangent…. I owned a YBA100 and YBA300 at the same time. Wanted to put KT88's in the 100 but eventually sold it and kept the 300. Will it take KT88's or is that too much plate voltage? I'd emailed Traynor about the YBA100 and KT88's and they said not to do it. So I didn't. But always wanted to…
 
If I had 4x6550 in mine right now, I wouldn't admit it!

And if I did, I would explain that it isn't for more power, but for clarity in the lows at low, bedroom/studio volume.
I would say "it already eliminated one of my big iron amps, and currently sits very nicely (with regard to clarity, not power) between on the one hand a modern class D and on the other hand an SVT-CL, all three pretty clean and beautiful". That's what I would say.
 
If I had 4x6550 in mine right now, I wouldn't admit it!

And if I did, I would explain that it isn't for more power, but for clarity in the lows at low, bedroom/studio volume.
I would say "it already eliminated one of my big iron amps, and currently sits very nicely (with regard to clarity, not power) between on the one hand a modern class D and on the other hand an SVT-CL, all three pretty clean and beautiful". That's what I would say.
Hmmm...That sounds just about Perfect!
Clean and Beautiful :drool:
 
If I had 4x6550 in mine right now, I wouldn't admit it
According to my understanding, KT88s would be safer because 6550s don't like so much resistance in the grid circuit, according to the claimed specs.

Psst... got yer (opens trench coat to expose the product) Shuguang GEKT88s right here. JJ KT88s also very good.

*
Among power tubes that may be discussed freely, and which permit reinstallation of the cover :-) , the "Tung-Sol" 7581A (6L6GC compatible) sounds comparable to 6550WE *up to a point* on the power dial (I would tell you that if I had tried it myself).
 
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