no i use the same cord on my 4 string with no issueBad cord.
TalkBass has been independent since 1998. Add your voice.
Create a free account to reply to discussions, view embedded media, and browse with fewer display ads.
Join free Log in
Want zero display ads or expanded classifieds tools? Compare plans.
no i use the same cord on my 4 string with no issueBad cord.
Typed up a small checklist for you... just all the obvious stuff I've missed before.Hello everyone
Yesterday my Schecter stiletto stealth 5 bass just stopped and i mean no sound coming . i did troubleshooting from changing battery to looking at wires to make sure nothing loose . which left me with only 2 things to suspect . either preamp died or the pickups .
when i hook up the bass to my audio interface and move the volume knob on and off i see the green signal in my audio interface but no sound coming . what you guys think the issue could be ? if its preamp , what should i replace it with ? its Master Volume/Blend/Active 2-Band
thanks
its very frustrating trying to find the culterpit
If you're not sure which is which, use your Ohm meter to check continuity between the terminal & the tip spring.
![]()
so now since i'm certain my pickups are fine . Should i replace the preamp or rewire pickups to connector and use preamp pedal ?If you're certain the preamp is bad, wire the pickup(s) straight to the jack to eliminate the pickup(s) as being faulty.
i was actually looking at the Bartolin v v t bYou should not need a preamp. If the preamp in my two-band bass failed, I'd just put in passive controls, V/V/T/B
Neck Volume
Bridge Volume
Treble Cut
Bass Cut
using 500k Ohm linear taper pots for the volumes & a 500k Ohm audio taper for the treble cut
I think the specs for the bass cut are a 1 MegOhm reverse taper pot.
In the meantime you could just wire it up straight to the jack & use it!
no volume or timbre controls, just full blast
OTOH, if you wanted to put another preamp in it, you could go big & get a 3 or 4-band, or 3-band with sweepable mids, and just use a couple of concentric knobs to control it.
you talking about the cap on the volume knob ? I will check again but i agree there is a short circuitHot battery means a dead short circuit across the battery. Since it doesn' t get warm until the plug is inserted in the jack, this rules out the battery connector and the switching jack. I would examine the power leads going to the preamp pc board to ensure there isn't any frayed strands touching. Also check to ensure the pc board isn't touching any controls or foil shielding.
The other possibility is one of the semiconductors may have shorted if the battery was momentarily connected backwards while trying to push the battery connector onto a fresh 9v battery. Another possibility is a tantalum cap in parallel with the 9 volt power supply rail. They are very sensitive to reverse polarity, resulting in a dead short.
No, usually there will be an electrolytic or tantalum cap on the pc board to lower the impedance of the 9 volt battery. It' s part of the preamp circuit.you talking about the cap on the volume knob ? I will check again but i agree there is a short circuit
Is your 4 string active or passive?no i use the same cord on my 4 string with no issue
The preamp is default schecter active preamp , there is no pull-push active /passive . Its always active so no battery no soundI didn't lose sleep over this, last night, but it did chase me in a couple of dreams...
From Musicians Friend:
Pickups
Active or passive pickups: Passive
Pickup configuration: HS
Neck: Diamond P
Middle: Not applicable
Bridge: Diamond SuperRock MM Humbucker
Brand: Schecter
Series or parallel: Parallel
Active preamp: Not applicable
Special electronics: Defeatable 2-band active EQ
No matter what you call it, the problem was isolated to the 'control circuit', so good job, all!
@Azagorath , when the bass was working properly, what would you do to defeat the active 2 band EQ? Push-Pull? I still have not received an answer regarding 'passive' (without battery, or otherwise) operation...
As evidenced by the description in bold, if the 'preamp' is N/A, what enhancement(s) does an active EQ provide over a passive control circuit... I would think the controls would operate, whether active, or passive.
That's cool if you want to do the upgrade... sounds like a great choice! I'd still take a closer look at that control circuit... the problem may jump out at you. Any simultaneous 'event' occur about the same time your bass took a dump? And no, we can't blame the eclipse...
my 4 is active yes and yes my cable is TSIs your 4 string active or passive?
If passive... the cable working there is not necessarily a valid test.
You are using a Tip/Sleeve and not a Tip/Ring/Sleeve cable, right?
its beautiful bass however not for metal. I had to do some work on my tones to get it to sound the way i want itWhere's a schematic, when you need one? If that's your bass in the pic that @Killed_by_Death provided, it's pretty awesome, and at a great price, also! Well worth bringing back to life, no matter which solution you choose! Good luck!
Sounds like it's shop time then, unless you want to go buy a meter and start learning basic electronics.my 4 is active yes and yes my cable is TS
The preamp is default schecter active preamp , there is no pull-push active /passive . Its always active so no battery no sound