• TalkBass has been independent since 1998. Add your voice.
    Create a free account to reply to discussions, view embedded media, and browse with fewer display ads.
    Join free Log in
    Want zero display ads or expanded classifieds tools? Compare plans.

No-velcro pedalboards?

  • Thread starter Thread starter Deleted member 165050
  • Start date Start date
#21
ficelles said:
I'm trying to avoid glue on the base of pedals...
Click to expand...

They make adhesive strips of duct tape, so I'm not sure why you'd get glue on them. Adhesive is easily removed with naptha or other similar solvents if you need to sell pedals. Zipties could potentially scratch the finish on your pedals if that is something you're concerned about.

Duct tape is quick and easy. Yes, it's messy, but you gotta think of a pedal board as a painter views his palette. It doesn't have to be pretty.
 
Last edited:
#22
njones89 said:
They make adhesive strips of duct tape, so I'm not sure why you'd get glue on them. Adhesive is easily removed with naptha or other similar solvents if you need to sell pedals. Zipties could potentially scratch the finish on your pedals if that is something you're concerned about.
Duct tape is quick and easy. Yes, it's messy, but you gotta think of a pedal board as a painter views his palette. It doesn't have to be pretty.
Click to expand...

I've got some stuff called Goo Gone that gets rid of glue residue, it's still a pain to have to do it though and very annoying when you buy a pedal off eBay and find someone has covered the serial number label and you can't get the velcro off without wrecking the label. It's as bad as the pedal not having the right box.
 
  • Like
Reactions: matante
#26
Here's a more basic solution from a guy in Canada. www.hannahguitars.com

I think the wood is birch. He gets it laser-cut. Saw him at a local guitar show last year.

20160918_105130.jpg
 
  • Like
Reactions: zontar
#28
I use dual lock. Instead of the hook and loop of Velcro; dual lock uses hard plastic nubs that interlock together. They're really tough to get apart once they're together( I believe there rated at 2lbs per square inch). It's a great solution if you don't want to make something custom. Hope it helps
 

Attachments

  • A7790AC1-8B56-4D85-B746-F620292E8BF8-462-0000001FC22D43D4_tmp.jpg
    A7790AC1-8B56-4D85-B746-F620292E8BF8-462-0000001FC22D43D4_tmp.jpg
    29 KB · Views: 289
  • Like
Reactions: odarellmc and Bob_Ross
#29
njones89 said:
Zipties could potentially scratch the finish on your pedals if that is something you're concerned about.
Click to expand...
Nonsense.
Zip ties are made of nylon.
Not sandpaper.

Naphtha and solvents can remove the paint from the pedals.
Or possibly dissolve them if they are made of plastic.
 
Last edited:
  • Like
Reactions: Roxbororob
#30
shoegazebass said:
Check out Aclam Guitar's Smart Track System - Invalid Link Removed

I had a lot of trouble with velcro when storing my pedalboards on their sides - glue would fail at some point and pedals would end up falling all around, weakening jacks and cables. Bought an Aclam and the pedals are rock solid on there while being easily loosened for pedal rearrangement.
Click to expand...

I like the Aclam system, I have one for guitar and I may get a smaller one for bass.

pedalboard nov 2016.jpg

I want to upgrade my power supply and fit a better one underneath the board.

Maybe get a nice one spot like this

shoegazebass said:
View attachment 1071357
Click to expand...

Have you tried to fit that one spot underneath the board?

The Aclam brackets are too small to hold one of them but I was wondering if you could use the brackets supplied with the one spot for fitting on a pedal train board and just drill as necessary in the Aclam board??
 
#32
thefruitfarmer said:
Have you tried to fit that one spot underneath the board?

The Aclam brackets are too small to hold one of them but I was wondering if you could use the brackets supplied with the one spot for fitting on a pedal train board and just drill as necessary in the Aclam board??
Click to expand...

I haven't....it's pretty tall and I don't think there'd be enough room for it. A smaller iso brick should fit no problem.
 
  • Like
Reactions: thefruitfarmer
#35
At some point (like, if I can find them on sale somehow) I'm probably going to end up ordering a Holeyboard with a Phoenix power brick.

Was looking at the Temple Audio boards, but couldn't figure out how to mount the brick underneath without blocking a whole area of holes. They also don't have a lot of clearance underneath for larger bricks and have a lot of flex to them from what I've heard.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Watchootognbout
#36
NortyFiner said:
At some point (like, if I can find them on sale somehow) I'm probably going to end up ordering a Holeyboard with a Phoenix power brick.

Was looking at the Temple Audio boards, but couldn't figure out how to mount the brick underneath without blocking a whole area of holes. They also don't have a lot of clearance underneath for larger bricks and have a lot of flex to them from what I've heard.
Click to expand...

I used to make my own pedal boards, drill holes in a plank and tie the pedals down with zip ties. Had enough of that now and also enough of using velcro and glue. The Temple Audio System looks good but I have n't thought about the flex and fitting a power brick underneath.

So, I bought an Aclam board....(probably a nightmare to order from the US)

The clamping system holds the pedals and makes it easy to move them about, it's light and you can adjust the angle of it easily.

It is tricky (without playing tetris for hours) to get the pedals all close together. However, I don't want them too close on the front row in case I hit two at once with my big feet. You can rotate the plate for the back row and use velcro on the back row, as an option if you just want to squeeze another pedal in....

Fitting a power supply underneath the board is a bit tricky as they only make clamps for a limited number of power supplies. Looking at their website recently I suspect they will design some more though. What I could do is use my T-Rex junior, with the Aclam clamp for the time being. The pedals are AFAIK all low power draw so it should be okay. The cheap Artec power supply I suspect does n't deliver a constant current....I really want a larger power brick so I can use it to power a multi effect floor board as well in the future......
 
#38
shoegazebass said:
Check out Aclam Guitar's Smart Track System - Invalid Link Removed

I had a lot of trouble with velcro when storing my pedalboards on their sides - glue would fail at some point and pedals would end up falling all around, weakening jacks and cables. Bought an Aclam and the pedals are rock solid on there while being easily loosened for pedal rearrangement.

View attachment 1071357
Click to expand...

OMG! My old T-65!!!
 
  • Like
Reactions: shoegazebass
#39
thefruitfarmer said:
Fitting a power supply underneath the board is a bit tricky as they only make clamps for a limited number of power supplies. Looking at their website recently I suspect they will design some more though. What I could do is use my T-Rex junior, with the Aclam clamp for the time being. The pedals are AFAIK all low power draw so it should be okay. The cheap Artec power supply I suspect does n't deliver a constant current....I really want a larger power brick so I can use it to power a multi effect floor board as well in the future......
Click to expand...

Aclam has recently released some universal power supply clamps.

power-supply-support-universal-s.jpg
 

Latest posts

Top Bottom
Back