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Double Bass NS Design WAV4 megathread part II
- Thread starter Gary Lynch
- Start date
Hi,
I nailed my search to spirocores but there is another thing to decide. Which of them would suit better: weich (light) or mittel (medium) and also lengthwise 3/4 or 4/4? I read somewhere that 3/4 wouldn fit as they are shorter than other brands.
Now I have helicore hybrids on it.
Thanks for your inputs.
I nailed my search to spirocores but there is another thing to decide. Which of them would suit better: weich (light) or mittel (medium) and also lengthwise 3/4 or 4/4? I read somewhere that 3/4 wouldn fit as they are shorter than other brands.
Now I have helicore hybrids on it.
Thanks for your inputs.
- Jul 19, 2000
- 2,014
- 2,224
- Disclosures
- Owner/President, Gollihur Music LLC
I should think that the 4/4 Medium (S42) and Weich/Light (S42W) sets would fit, they are long enough for 4/4 bass (and suitable for 3/4 as well.) The 3/4 sets indeed would likely be too short and you'd end up with silked end over the nut.
I imagine that the Spiros might sound quite "electric" on the solid-body WAV4; extended sustain, very "stringy" attack, that sort of thing. That may be what you're going for, so maybe they'll work for you.
I imagine that the Spiros might sound quite "electric" on the solid-body WAV4; extended sustain, very "stringy" attack, that sort of thing. That may be what you're going for, so maybe they'll work for you.
Just put Spiro mittel. Was very careful with tuners and string cutting. Everything worked well.
It's unbelievable how strings changed the overall feel and sound and also piezo performance. Now I'm very satisfied with results. Defined attack, longer sustain but it's still URB type of sound, thus that depend mainly on setup.
Thanks for advice.
It's unbelievable how strings changed the overall feel and sound and also piezo performance. Now I'm very satisfied with results. Defined attack, longer sustain but it's still URB type of sound, thus that depend mainly on setup.
Thanks for advice.
Hello folks,
As one who has never been satisfied with existing pizz and arco mod finding them too similar to fretless bass in pizz and too thumpy and sustainless in arco, I've realized one modification in which you have following options: Volume pot now acts as a blend pot. in fully down position you have only one piezo which is under a E and A string leg. By turning it up another piezo is gradually added whether it is in phase or out of phase, which is something you define in arco/pizz switch. In fully up position you have "old" pizz or arco sound .
So sound options are: Only one piezo, pizz, arco, and everything between one piezo and pizz or arco.
Only downside is that sound is slightly changed as one piezo is going directly to output, and you also loose volume option.
Mod is very simple and easily reversible. Soldering is only required on volume pot. As you can see on attached schematics. I know that it can be improved so any suggestions are welcomed, but i wanted it to be as easy as possible.
Thanks to Matthijs and other folks here for inspiration and research.
Best
As one who has never been satisfied with existing pizz and arco mod finding them too similar to fretless bass in pizz and too thumpy and sustainless in arco, I've realized one modification in which you have following options: Volume pot now acts as a blend pot. in fully down position you have only one piezo which is under a E and A string leg. By turning it up another piezo is gradually added whether it is in phase or out of phase, which is something you define in arco/pizz switch. In fully up position you have "old" pizz or arco sound .
So sound options are: Only one piezo, pizz, arco, and everything between one piezo and pizz or arco.
Only downside is that sound is slightly changed as one piezo is going directly to output, and you also loose volume option.
Mod is very simple and easily reversible. Soldering is only required on volume pot. As you can see on attached schematics. I know that it can be improved so any suggestions are welcomed, but i wanted it to be as easy as possible.
Thanks to Matthijs and other folks here for inspiration and research.
Best
Attachments
Basically a good idea. I thought of this myself for my Clevinger,
BUT (!) using piezos without buffering (by a JFET) into a potentiometer (which has almost always a lower resistance than the impedance needed for for the piezos) changes the sound (generally making it worse).
So you need something like two FDeck quick 'n' dirty buffers (one for each piezo) to avoid this and put the rest of your schematic behind the buffer outputs. Of course then you also need a battery and room for it.
In the Clevinger I found the same passive kind of electronics and it sounded a lot better with the buffer in front of it. (It sounded even much better without any electronics directly from the piezo to a high impedance amp input.)
Passive electronics made for medium impedance outputs (magnetic coils) cannot be used for high impedance outputs (piezos) without a huge impact on sound quality.
For passive piezos there should be nothing else but a phase switch and an output jack.
Even connecting two piezos in parallel without any electronics following (beside an high impedance amp) can degrade the sound substantially.
I really cannot understand that well known companies still make this .... today.
BUT (!) using piezos without buffering (by a JFET) into a potentiometer (which has almost always a lower resistance than the impedance needed for for the piezos) changes the sound (generally making it worse).
So you need something like two FDeck quick 'n' dirty buffers (one for each piezo) to avoid this and put the rest of your schematic behind the buffer outputs. Of course then you also need a battery and room for it.
In the Clevinger I found the same passive kind of electronics and it sounded a lot better with the buffer in front of it. (It sounded even much better without any electronics directly from the piezo to a high impedance amp input.)
Passive electronics made for medium impedance outputs (magnetic coils) cannot be used for high impedance outputs (piezos) without a huge impact on sound quality.
For passive piezos there should be nothing else but a phase switch and an output jack.
Even connecting two piezos in parallel without any electronics following (beside an high impedance amp) can degrade the sound substantially.
I really cannot understand that well known companies still make this .... today.
I totally agree.
But as sound is already downgraded by factory design this is only a more versatile "downgraded" solution.
Putting buffers in front of my schematics would improve the sound for sure.
Greetings,
This isn't exactly NxT. It's about my WAV basses and bows. I have two WAV basses - one with NS medium gauge strings and one with NS standard (lighter) gauge strings. The bass with the mediums I play with a Glasser carbon graphite bow. The other bass I play with a "real" pernambuco bow. The bass with the lighter strings and wood bow is more responsive and easier to play. I'm wondering why. Is it the bow, the strings or the combination of both? Any ideas?
Thanks,
Jair-Rohm
This isn't exactly NxT. It's about my WAV basses and bows. I have two WAV basses - one with NS medium gauge strings and one with NS standard (lighter) gauge strings. The bass with the mediums I play with a Glasser carbon graphite bow. The other bass I play with a "real" pernambuco bow. The bass with the lighter strings and wood bow is more responsive and easier to play. I'm wondering why. Is it the bow, the strings or the combination of both? Any ideas?
Thanks,
Jair-Rohm
On solid body EUBs the same kind of string feels harder (seems to have more tension, but this isn't true) to play than on an acoustic upright with the same scale. I use Spiro Weich 3/4 on my Clevinger (old one with the higher string angle at the bridge similar to an acoustic upright) and these strings feel as hard as Spiro Mittel on an acoustic upright. So that might be one reason why the WAV with the lighter strings plays better.
The other thing is, that bowing is much easier with most pernamuco bows than with most carbon fibre bows. It is easily possible to tune the wooden bows tip resonance frequency by removing wood from the tip or shaft, but this is hardly possible (if at all) with carbon fibre bows.
The other thing is, that bowing is much easier with most pernamuco bows than with most carbon fibre bows. It is easily possible to tune the wooden bows tip resonance frequency by removing wood from the tip or shaft, but this is hardly possible (if at all) with carbon fibre bows.
Apparently the Wav is making a comeback:
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Thoughts? I'm thinking of snagging one.
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Thoughts? I'm thinking of snagging one.
I like my WAV4. I swapped the tuners. But otherwise it's stock. I'd rather have more variable electronics. But I don't want them thousands of dollars worth.
I might get a WAV5 in stead, though.
I might get a WAV5 in stead, though.
Hi folks,
I am thinking about a NOS NS Wav that the czech manufacturer are selling on eBaY:
Electric Double Bass NS Design WAV4 | eBay
They present some scrathches and visual flaws, but problem its all have problems with the trussrod, as the seller told me:
"I have revised instruments condition. All instruments are manufactured in 2010 in China. All of them are unused. The truss rod is not broken, but the limited function is caused by original manufacturer. In order to guarantee playable condition, we (current official manufacturer of NS basses) will refurbish the fretboard of any selected bass (color variations). That means, the truss rod won´t work perfecly, but the instrument will be tunned and playable as normal".
My question its, will you buy one of these? Do you have to adjust the trussrod in those instruments often? I am an acoustic upright player, there´s no trussrod to fiddle about. I suppose due to the thickness of the neck you don´t need to.
I know a new or used NXT or CR will be better option but money its a problem and don´t seem to appear one used in my area as cheap as those Wavs. Thank you!
I am thinking about a NOS NS Wav that the czech manufacturer are selling on eBaY:
Electric Double Bass NS Design WAV4 | eBay
They present some scrathches and visual flaws, but problem its all have problems with the trussrod, as the seller told me:
"I have revised instruments condition. All instruments are manufactured in 2010 in China. All of them are unused. The truss rod is not broken, but the limited function is caused by original manufacturer. In order to guarantee playable condition, we (current official manufacturer of NS basses) will refurbish the fretboard of any selected bass (color variations). That means, the truss rod won´t work perfecly, but the instrument will be tunned and playable as normal".
My question its, will you buy one of these? Do you have to adjust the trussrod in those instruments often? I am an acoustic upright player, there´s no trussrod to fiddle about. I suppose due to the thickness of the neck you don´t need to.
I know a new or used NXT or CR will be better option but money its a problem and don´t seem to appear one used in my area as cheap as those Wavs. Thank you!
The trussrod in my Stagg EUB does nothing and the DB doesn't have one.
If the neck is weaker than the one of a Stagg EUB or DB, then higher tension strings bight bend the neck a bit more (usually not a big issue). The only problem might be lower tension strings than the ones the WAV comes with. Then you might get rattling strings. But since the contemporary strings are lower tension, I don't think this is an issue. But don't try Spiro Stark on it.
If the neck is weaker than the one of a Stagg EUB or DB, then higher tension strings bight bend the neck a bit more (usually not a big issue). The only problem might be lower tension strings than the ones the WAV comes with. Then you might get rattling strings. But since the contemporary strings are lower tension, I don't think this is an issue. But don't try Spiro Stark on it.
I acquired a NS Wav 4c 5 days ago and I'm happy with it. But I was playing it thru my amp today, an Acoustic Image Clarus SL w/Doubleshot Speakers. It sounds great but I notice the volume seems to drop slightly on the G string compared to the lower ones, and if I play higher on the G string it seems to get a bit weaker still and more nasal as well. I may be imagining this but I don't think so.
If I raise the bridge a bit on the G string side do you think that might help? Or any other thoughts? Also, to raise the bridge do I turn the Philips screw to the right or left?
Thanks for any suggestions. - Jim Greeson
If I raise the bridge a bit on the G string side do you think that might help? Or any other thoughts? Also, to raise the bridge do I turn the Philips screw to the right or left?
Thanks for any suggestions. - Jim Greeson
Hi Jim
I don’t want to give you incorrect information… but my understanding is the pickup system is tied to the vibration from the string on bridge. Therefore the heights adjustment will not alter the string volume.
If it’s only on the G string there probably isn’t an easy fix. If it’s specific notes, you might be able to tweak the treble to bring it up some in your mix.
Hopefully others will join in and provide information.
These are fun instruments hope your are enjoying it.
I did raise the bridge a bit on the G string side and it seemed to help with the volume and tone issue my original post was about. I think it simply allows me to put a bit more energy into the G string if it's a bit higher. I've also noticed that where I pluck the string makes a difference in the tone as well. Plucking towards the end of the fingerboard seems to produce a slightly richer tone than a few inches higher.
Hello, I have the NXT with piezo pickups only, which is essentially the WAVs half brother. It could just. be the strings. I've had a few string changes on this bass over the past 7 or so years that I've owned it. I recently put on Evah Pirazzi ,and the B E and A boom, the D and G are noticeably weaker. The bridge height won't change that the way it would with magnetic pickups but the added action height does help with being able to pluck the string harder. I also noticed no matter which amp I use the bass always sounds better with a preamp. I just happen to use a sansamp paradriver but there are many great preamps. I do love this bass.
