Off with its head! 6-string headless conversion/parts build

[John_Nicholas]

I'm really late to the party, but wanted to let you know this is an amazing and brilliant build. I love headless bass designs, and this is just next level, using parts from regular bass guitars. Right after reading through the thread I admit to searching for a body to copy your idea!!

At first when you were attempting to match the paint I thought it was crazy. In fact I was going to suggest a contrasting color, similar to how Ibanez designed the JEM guitars at the beginning.But your determination to do it right truly paid off! It looks like it's supposed to be like that! Kudos!

Wow!

 

[AudioTaper]

Ok fans of tedious wiring you'd rather just pay someone else to do

I tested some things out on the fancy pot, confirmed the blend is correct the way Noll has it on their diagram, pulled it and the Darkglass drawing up, and got to making my own (admittedly crude) diagram. I tried to use critical thinking here by using Noll's diagram to make sure I have the send from the blend section and the input to the volume section correct. I can also see from their diagram that the bottom pins on the DPDT switch are the active mode. I'm pretty confident I've got this right (@AudioTaper please double check me ) and I'll explain my thinking after the pic. So here goes:

View attachment 4111290

So again, I'm using this Noll diagram to determine out of the blend and into the volume:

View attachment 4111291

If that is correct then here is how things work in active mode: volume outputs to pin 6 (the jumper to pin 1 doesn't matter cause pin 1 isn't connected in this position) which is connected to pin 4 sending the signal to the preamp. It returns on pin 5 which in that mode is connected to pin 3 sending it to the output jack.

In passive mode volume outputs to pin 6 which isn't connected so the jumper takes it to pin 1 which is. Pin one is connected to pin 3 which sends it right to the jack. Meanwhile in that position pin 4 is connected to pin 2, grounding the preamp's input.

I have the preamp send and return labeled Y (Yellow) and B (Blue) cause thats the colors used in the Darkglass diagram:

View attachment 4111297

My brain says this is the way to go, what say you TB?

Looks like that will work!
Sorry for leaving you hang, I've been busy with family stuff and buffing my Wenge Cirrus when I get a free moment.

 

[Reedt2000]

I'm really late to the party, but wanted to let you know this is an amazing and brilliant build. I love headless bass designs, and this is just next level, using parts from regular bass guitars. Right after reading through the thread I admit to searching for a body to copy your idea!!

At first when you were attempting to match the paint I thought it was crazy. In fact I was going to suggest a contrasting color, similar to how Ibanez designed the JEM guitars at the beginning.But your determination to do it right truly paid off! It looks like it's supposed to be like that! Kudos!

Wow!

Thanks!

I find I really enjoy this sort of thing and I've been trying to push myself (I've also gotten old enough to have some disposable income ). Ive always messed around with stringed instrument, and I used to work at a music shop with a good luthier so I always picked his brain and learned a lot. This is only my 2nd thread documenting my adventures here on TB, the first is here if you have any interest:

Special Edition Build Off - Toby Deluxe V facelift

This community has been super supportive and helpful. That goes a long way to making me comfortable enough to put my self out there

 

[AudioTaper]

I have a bunch of free time today, and I was feeling good about the logic which led to my wiring plan so...

I wired it that way

View attachment 4111541

And... it works (at least in passive mode, still gotta get a tiny screwdriver to hook up the pre but I'm pretty sure it will work ).

I decided to double check my battery wiring before connecting to the preamp, and I was freaked out when the meter read 0 volts... until I noticed I had it set to AC (last time I read voltages I was doing wiring in my house). Fixed that and two fresh 9 volts read:

View attachment 4111539

Of course, things were not problem free, but this is not my fault. The solid shafts on the Noll (or should I say MEC, noticed it says MEC right on it...) pot are hard to grip and turn with your fingers. Easy fix right? Just put the concentric knobs I bought with it on. Well, the bottom knob won't sit level with the set screw tightened

It's fine just sitting there:
View attachment 4111542

Not so much with the screw tight:
View attachment 4111543

The other black dome knobs I've got work fine on the EQ pots, and I'm still liking the look:
View attachment 4111540

I'm gonna email Best Bass Gear and see what they'll do for me. Their site says this is the only knob set that will work but I'd bet Warwick knobs will work just fine

I could rob the set from my vette just to test my theory, might do that tomorrow.

Happy new year TB!

Does it only have 1 set screw?

 

[Reedt2000]

Looks like that will work!
Sorry for leaving you hang, I've been busy with family stuff and buffing my Wenge Cirrus when I get a free moment.

No need for apologies, especially about having family time

Once I understood what I was looking at I knew I could figure it out. I traced it out a number of times just to be sure, then I went for it

 

[Reedt2000]

Does it only have 1 set screw?

Yeah, just one.

 

[AudioTaper]

No need for apologies, especially about having family time

Less about family time and more about trying to wrangle the kids to give the wife a break for once...

Yeah, just one.

Does it seem to fit loosely around the shaft before the set screw is tightened?
If you bought it with the pot, I would see what they say.
If you bought it separately, you could make a shim out of an aluminum beverage can of your choice. Or drill/tap it for another set screw about 120° apart from the first.

 

[Matt Liebenau]

I have a bunch of free time today, and I was feeling good about the logic which led to my wiring plan so...

I wired it that way

View attachment 4111541

And... it works (at least in passive mode, still gotta get a tiny screwdriver to hook up the pre but I'm pretty sure it will work ).

I decided to double check my battery wiring before connecting to the preamp, and I was freaked out when the meter read 0 volts... until I noticed I had it set to AC (last time I read voltages I was doing wiring in my house). Fixed that and two fresh 9 volts read:

View attachment 4111539

Of course, things were not problem free, but this is not my fault. The solid shafts on the Noll (or should I say MEC, noticed it says MEC right on it...) pot are hard to grip and turn with your fingers. Easy fix right? Just put the concentric knobs I bought with it on. Well, the bottom knob won't sit level with the set screw tightened

It's fine just sitting there:
View attachment 4111542

Not so much with the screw tight:
View attachment 4111543

The other black dome knobs I've got work fine on the EQ pots, and I'm still liking the look:
View attachment 4111540

I'm gonna email Best Bass Gear and see what they'll do for me. Their site says this is the only knob set that will work but I'd bet Warwick knobs will work just fine

I could rob the set from my vette just to test my theory, might do that tomorrow.

Happy new year TB!

Would a piece of brass shim stock or even a piece cut out of a soda can and wrapped around the shaft help with the knob moving like that?

Edit: looks like AudioTaper and I were saying almost the same thing at the same time.

 

[/\/\3phist0]

https://www.amazon.com/Brass-adapte...-adapter-sleeves-install-pieces/dp/B07QXHXP7H

 

[Reedt2000]

Less about family time and more about trying to wrangle the kids to give the wife a break for once...


Does it seem to fit loosely around the shaft before the set screw is tightened?
If you bought it with the pot, I would see what they say.
If you bought it separately, you could make a shim out of an aluminum beverage can of your choice. Or drill/tap it for another set screw about 120° apart from the first.

Would a piece of brass shim stock or even a piece cut out of a soda can and wrapped around the shaft help with the knob moving like that?

Edit: looks like AudioTaper and I were saying almost the same thing at the same time.

https://www.amazon.com/Brass-adapte...-adapter-sleeves-install-pieces/dp/B07QXHXP7H

Its pretty snug, I did mess with it a tiny bit using tape and there is only room for 1-ply of electrical tape between the shaft & knob, and even then not a full wrap around. I think there's something screwy in the machining of the knob. I didn't wanna do anything too permanent to it. I could try my Warwick knobs, but they're working great on my #1 player so I really don't wanna screw that up

 

[Reedt2000]

Got a tiny screwdriver set today and buttoned up the preamp install. After a quick test to make sure all is well (it is ), I stuck it in it's final location, used a couple little cable ties to clean it up and make sure there is no undue tension on the connectors, and it's done

It is much easier to layout a wiring job like this when the batteries are in a separate compartment

I'm waiting on replacement thrust bearings, strap buttons, and a gold jack, (all on the way), and then it will be time to set it up and rock it

EDIT: gotta work out this annoying knob issue too...

 

[CatchaCuda]

Great job! Everytime after I visit this thread, I find myself searching for a body for the neck you sold me! Not that my project will be as nicely done or as cool...

Are we going to hear this monster when it's buttoned up?

 

[Reedt2000]

Great job! Everytime after I visit this thread, I find myself searching for a body for the neck you sold me! Not that my project will be as nicely done or as cool...

Are we going to hear this monster when it's buttoned up?

I know there's interest in the Darkglass tone so I'll make some kinda demo. My interface is so old it doesn't like to work on any of my current computers so maybe just a cell phone recording...

 

[Beej]

Shot in the dark on the knob issue - what if you place both knobs in the stack and tighten up the top knob first? Maybe that will hold the bottom one more level when it's tight?

 

[Reedt2000]

Shot in the dark on the knob issue - what if you place both knobs in the stack and tighten up the top knob first? Maybe that will hold the bottom one more level when it's tight?

Yeah, I've tried that. I've also realized initial attempts had the collar upside down, but it doesn't make a difference (except its cocked the other direction)

I'm convinced it's a defect in the collar, the top knob goes on fine and the shafts are 90° to the body.

 

[/\/\3phist0]

Yeah, I've tried that. I've also realized initial attempts had the collar upside down, but it doesn't make a difference (except its cocked the other direction)

View attachment 4113177 View attachment 4113178

I'm convinced it's a defect in the collar, the top knob goes on fine and the shafts are 90° to the body.

Or the tip of the set screw . Have you tried switching the set screw?

 

[Reedt2000]

Or the tip of the set screw . Have you tried switching the set screw?

I've thought about that, I have to take a look and see if I have another one. I though about trying to flatten the tip of the set screw too, but I want to see what becomes of my email to Best Bass Gear 1st

 

[/\/\3phist0]

I've thought about that, I have to take a look and see if I have another one. I though about trying to flatten the tip of the set screw too, but I want to see what becomes of my email to Best Bass Gear 1st

Try the screw from the top knob.

 

[Reedt2000]

Try the screw from the top knob.

Nice! I hadn't considered that

 

[dwizum]

Is that lower knob the wrong size? Too big? I know they make conversion bushings to fit a larger setscrew knob on a smaller shaft. Or get a piece of tuning at your local hardware store.