No, it's designed for the 6mm shaft this pot has and fits pretty snug, no room for any kind of shim.
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Off with its head! 6-string headless conversion/parts build
- Thread starter Reedt2000
- Start date
Well, it was a clever idea but it made no difference. I gotta think it's the shape of the inside of the collar. It must be slightly conical forcing the whole thing to skew when the set screw forces it against the side of the shaft. When you turn it, the collar also drags the inner shaft around with it. The inner shaft doesn't do the same to the collar, I'm really hoping it's down to this weird knob issue. I've got WD40 with white lithium grease in it. I may put a tiny bit between the moving parts, once I've sussed this knob thing out.
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It's possible (likely) if the screw didn't address the issue the threaded hole is drilled at an angle.
If the outer shaft is catching on the main shaft, that is not right. Perhaps too tight.
Makes sense
I tried to be careful about not over-tightening. I'm not sure why it would catch when turning the collar, but not turning the inner shaft.
You probably have tried this already, but did you try turning the collar without the knob on it? Or wiggling it? There could be an issue with the pot.
After that I would look at the inside of the knob and see if it is machined straight.
This issue just doesn't make sense....
I could see the set screw hole not perpendicular to the shaft. I think this happens far more than most of us would like to admit. Probably can't back the screw out far enough to check? Or verify with a longer screw?
I had a similar situation where I stuck a plastic washer (spacer) under the knob, so once tightened would sit square to the shaft, and not scrape the lock nut beneath it.
And that was on what I considered a high end instrument.
I had a similar situation where I stuck a plastic washer (spacer) under the knob, so once tightened would sit square to the shaft, and not scrape the lock nut beneath it.
And that was on what I considered a high end instrument.
Its tough to grab the shafts with your fingers and tell whats going on cause they're small and smooth. Electrically the pot works as it should. With the collar on it's all cockeyed and weird so I can't tell if that causes the issue. Just gotta wait until I have a knob that seats right to judge. I know the volume shaft turns without dragging the blend collar with it so I'm hoping it's the knob set.
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Passinwind
I know nothing.
- Dec 3, 2003
- 23,093
- 46,079
- Disclosures
- Designer/Toaster Tech @ Passinwind Electronics
Leaving it ungrounded can also lead to switching noise in some cases IME. With the other Noll switching pot (V-V) and also the unswitched concentrics I use for active tone controls I've made my own little circuit boards with labeling, like so:
This gives me a fighting chance of doing mods without wrecking the pots, which are fairly expensive pieces, especially at retail. I'd be perfectly happy to share the fabrication files for any of the ones I've done, but unfortunately I haven't needed a V-B-switch one in any of the builds I've worked on yet.
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Best Bass Gear got back to me and said:
"you need to get the pot down into the cavity more by putting another washer or 2 on the underside (inside the cavity)
so you have less treads sticking up above the top nut.
That way the bottom knob will sit down correctly and line up with the top of the bottom shaft of the pot.
Then the top one goes down, you will need to leave a small space (1mm or so) between the 2 knobs parts"
I did as they suggested:
And now tightening the set screw forces the opposite side of the collar down into the top
Ive asked for a replacement, waiting for the response.
"you need to get the pot down into the cavity more by putting another washer or 2 on the underside (inside the cavity)
so you have less treads sticking up above the top nut.
That way the bottom knob will sit down correctly and line up with the top of the bottom shaft of the pot.
Then the top one goes down, you will need to leave a small space (1mm or so) between the 2 knobs parts"
I did as they suggested:
And now tightening the set screw forces the opposite side of the collar down into the top
Ive asked for a replacement, waiting for the response.
Just to prove to myself this is a defective part I moved my Warwick knobs to it and they work without issue.
I emailed these pics to Best Bass Gear too.
I emailed these pics to Best Bass Gear too.
Been my #1 for 15 years
Best Bass Gear was very gracious and are sending me out a replacement as well as checking with Klaus at Noll to see if they had any issues (apparently this is 1 in a thousand that have done this, if it wasn't for bad luck...
)Best Bass Gear sent a replacement knob set really quick (they were very easy to work with, good folks over there 
), and the rest of the bits are here so it's assembly time!
Got all the hardware affixed:
@FretsAreFor the thrust bearings really make a difference. You lose a couple mm tuning distance, but the barrels turn smooth and easy. I replaced the Hipshot flat washers with them to save whatever space I could. These are slightly bigger (interior hole diameter) than the machine screws, but as soon as there's even light tension they auto center and work great
Adjusting the truss rods is tricky, pretty much gotta remove the A & D strings. When I first strung and tuned it they needed tightening (I turned them before stringing just until I felt some light resistance). I tightened them up a little more than was needed, gonna let it sit like that under tension (probably overnight) to see if there's further movement. It still needs setup (intonation, action), but it doesn't play bad for little to no tweaking. The nut slots probably could use adjustment, not sure if I'm gonna invest in files and try myself or have someone do it (I know a guy who might do it and give me a lesson on doing it at the same time...).
It looks pretty cool (which, of course, is the most important part
)
I did plug it in and the electronics live up to their reputation. The Aguilars are clean, clear, and balanced. A very modern vibe. The Darkglass adds punch and a bit of a gain boost without eq adjustments. With the EQ the bands are really interesting. Low is HUGE and full (centered at 70hz). Low mid is tons of definition and high mids is crisp without being hiss-y. More on that to come as I get to know this thing better
I think I might make a black truss rod cover to bring the red/gold/black look onto the head-nub. I have some single layer black plastic scrap.
), and the rest of the bits are here so it's assembly time!Got all the hardware affixed:
@FretsAreFor the thrust bearings really make a difference. You lose a couple mm tuning distance, but the barrels turn smooth and easy. I replaced the Hipshot flat washers with them to save whatever space I could. These are slightly bigger (interior hole diameter) than the machine screws, but as soon as there's even light tension they auto center and work great
Adjusting the truss rods is tricky, pretty much gotta remove the A & D strings. When I first strung and tuned it they needed tightening (I turned them before stringing just until I felt some light resistance). I tightened them up a little more than was needed, gonna let it sit like that under tension (probably overnight) to see if there's further movement. It still needs setup (intonation, action), but it doesn't play bad for little to no tweaking. The nut slots probably could use adjustment, not sure if I'm gonna invest in files and try myself or have someone do it (I know a guy who might do it and give me a lesson on doing it at the same time...).
It looks pretty cool (which, of course, is the most important part
)I did plug it in and the electronics live up to their reputation. The Aguilars are clean, clear, and balanced. A very modern vibe. The Darkglass adds punch and a bit of a gain boost without eq adjustments. With the EQ the bands are really interesting. Low is HUGE and full (centered at 70hz). Low mid is tons of definition and high mids is crisp without being hiss-y. More on that to come as I get to know this thing better
I think I might make a black truss rod cover to bring the red/gold/black look onto the head-nub. I have some single layer black plastic scrap.
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Best Bass Gear sent a replacement knob set really quick (they were very easy to work with, good folks over there
Got all the hardware affixed:
View attachment 4121227
@FretsAreFor the thrust bearings really make a difference. You lose a couple mm tuning distance, but the barrels turn smooth and easy. I replaced the Hipshot flat washers with them to save whatever space I could. These are slightly bigger (interior hole diameter) than the machine screws, but as soon as there's even light tension they auto center and work great
View attachment 4121228
Adjusting the truss rods is tricky, pretty much gotta remove the A & D strings. When I first strung and tuned it they needed tightening (I turned them before stringing just until I felt some light resistance). I tightened them up a little more than was needed, gonna let it sit like that under tension (probably overnight) to see if there's further movement. It still needs setup (intonation, action), but it doesn't play bad for little to no tweaking. The nut slots probably could use adjustment, not sure if I'm gonna invest in files and try myself or have someone do it (I know a guy who might do it and give me a lesson on doing it at the same time...).
It looks pretty cool (which, of course, is the most important part
View attachment 4121229
I did plug it in and the electronics live up to their reputation. The Aguilars are clean, clear, and balanced. A very modern vibe. The Darkglass adds punch and a bit of a gain boost without eq adjustments. With the EQ the bands are really interesting. Low is HUGE and full (centered at 70hz). Low mid is tons of definition and high mids is crisp without being hiss-y. More on that to come as I get to know this thing better
I think I might make a black truss rod cover to bring the red/gold/black look onto the head-nub. I have some single layer black plastic scrap.
Looks great!!Best Bass Gear sent a replacement knob set really quick (they were very easy to work with, good folks over there
Got all the hardware affixed:
View attachment 4121227
@FretsAreFor the thrust bearings really make a difference. You lose a couple mm tuning distance, but the barrels turn smooth and easy. I replaced the Hipshot flat washers with them to save whatever space I could. These are slightly bigger (interior hole diameter) than the machine screws, but as soon as there's even light tension they auto center and work great
View attachment 4121228
Adjusting the truss rods is tricky, pretty much gotta remove the A & D strings. When I first strung and tuned it they needed tightening (I turned them before stringing just until I felt some light resistance). I tightened them up a little more than was needed, gonna let it sit like that under tension (probably overnight) to see if there's further movement. It still needs setup (intonation, action), but it doesn't play bad for little to no tweaking. The nut slots probably could use adjustment, not sure if I'm gonna invest in files and try myself or have someone do it (I know a guy who might do it and give me a lesson on doing it at the same time...).
It looks pretty cool (which, of course, is the most important part
View attachment 4121229
I did plug it in and the electronics live up to their reputation. The Aguilars are clean, clear, and balanced. A very modern vibe. The Darkglass adds punch and a bit of a gain boost without eq adjustments. With the EQ the bands are really interesting. Low is HUGE and full (centered at 70hz). Low mid is tons of definition and high mids is crisp without being hiss-y. More on that to come as I get to know this thing better
I think I might make a black truss rod cover to bring the red/gold/black look onto the head-nub. I have some single layer black plastic scrap.
Thanks!
Still needs tweaking, but early indications are positive. This neck feels good and there is plenty of truss rod adjustment left in it (I've never seen this neck actually work so it was a pretty big leap of faith
).The string retainer may be a little lower than it needs to be. I have some more of the bar stock so I might make it some taller feet.
Fabulous! Love seeing this cross the finish line!
Not sure I agree about the truss rod cover; the headstock is so small that adding another design element might just be too much. Give it a look before making any permanent changes.
Any chance of a sound sample? I've got aggies on my basses (pups & pre) and love them. I use an outboard DG vintage microtubes for dirt. Does the DG onboard pre have a good clean?
Not sure I agree about the truss rod cover; the headstock is so small that adding another design element might just be too much. Give it a look before making any permanent changes.
Any chance of a sound sample? I've got aggies on my basses (pups & pre) and love them. I use an outboard DG vintage microtubes for dirt. Does the DG onboard pre have a good clean?
I haven't spent a lot of time with it plugged in yet. I've got a busy week so I probably won't get to further adjusting and playing till the weekend. The DG pre doesn't seem to color things too much and it sounded good, pretty balanced and clean. I do have designs on some sound samples once it's in shape.
