Official Ampeg Portaflex Club

[JvN]

Dear fellows,

here's a Micro VR question that came up after watching a YouTube demo. I am thinking of buying a 210 M-VR stack for rehearsals (still have to check whether the volume is sufficient). But given the XLR DI output, wouldn't it be great to use the M-VR head as a DI in a live situation as well, in combination with a full size (miked) SVT rig? Would it be feasible - or just plain stupid - to send the Effects Loop Send Jack, the splitted XLR signal, or even a splitted instrument cable before the M-VR into the SVT's preamp and rig for monitoring and miking, and send the XLR DI-signal to the front of house for the mix? There's no Thru, of course, so this idea requires some creativity, but if it would work, to me it would be more fun than using a REDDI or what have you next to a mike. Would be even better if the M-VR had some tubes in it, but we can wait ;-). Ideas?

Thanks!

J.

 

[Ric Vice]

Well, I guess the one I'm getting is'nt 50 watts then. Here's a pic of the back:

I remember playing a lot of different gigs with my 64 B-15N(C) when I was in college and even later. In most circumstances, it did a great job of keeping up. The model you have is voiced a little differently, than mine, but it sounds just great. You might be surprised how well it will keep up. If you have a P.A. handy they work dandy with a mic. Something about it's EQ section that cut's through the mix nicely. Of course, the Double Baffle cabinet, on the earlier ones has the best voicing IME.

Ric

 

[BillyB_from_LZ]

You could plug your bass straight into the SVT, run an instrument cable from the other jack on your channel of choice (or the left over input jack if you're linking channels) to the input of the Micro VR.

Then simply mic the 8x10 and run the XLR out of the Micro VR to the mixing board.

 

[beans-on-toast]

The volume difference between 30W and 50W isn't that much. I think that you would be better off in terms of volume by adding a second eight ohm 115 cab. Your back might disagree.

 

[stiles72]

Dear fellows,

here's a Micro VR question that came up after watching a YouTube demo. I am thinking of buying a 210 M-VR stack for rehearsals (still have to check whether the volume is sufficient). But given the XLR DI output, wouldn't it be great to use the M-VR head as a DI in a live situation as well, in combination with a full size (miked) SVT rig? Would it be feasible - or just plain stupid - to send the Effects Loop Send Jack, the splitted XLR signal, or even a splitted instrument cable before the M-VR into the SVT's preamp and rig for monitoring and miking, and send the XLR DI-signal to the front of house for the mix? There's no Thru, of course, so this idea requires some creativity, but if it would work, to me it would be more fun than using a REDDI or what have you next to a mike. Would be even better if the M-VR had some tubes in it, but we can wait ;-). Ideas?

Thanks!

J.

I'd just use the SVT/810. Throw a mic on the cab, and if you want a DI take a DI send from the SVT itself and blend the two at the FOH. Using the Micro when you have an SVT available seems redundent.

 

[garmenteros]

I can't say which will sound better. Probably a good idea to try them both in that cab and see. Sometimes you'll be surprised by the outcome. I have a Jensen Concert that I really like.

I've got a visit to the tech tomorrow and I will let you guys know.

Also anyone care to comment on EMINENCE LEGEND CB158 15", 8 OHM ,300W SPEAKER sold at fliptops.net? I want to gig my b15 someday like a small room at a bar im doing friday and dont think the stock speaker or jensen would cut it.

 

[beans-on-toast]

Here's a pic of the back.

Amazing condition!

The 5AR4 is made by Mullard. The 6SL7's are made by Sylvania. GE power tubes. All very good to have. I also see the orange sticker issued by the City of Los Angeles.

 

[JimmyM]

Also anyone care to comment on EMINENCE LEGEND CB158 15", 8 OHM ,300W SPEAKER sold at fliptops.net? I want to gig my b15 someday like a small room at a bar im doing friday and dont think the stock speaker or jensen would cut it.

Only goes to 3k. Sorry, not high enough for me. I've got Delta 15a's in mine, which are quite badass and sound just like the old CTS speakers, but if I had to do it over again, I'd probably go with Beta 15a's because they're $20 cheaper, sound about the same (maybe a little brighter), and take a bit more power, despite what the thermal rating tells you...Beta has more xmax so it can take more volume. Like that matters in a B-15

If you go with neos, I might give one of those Faital 15PR400's a shot. Even brighter than the Betas, and they work in small cabs.

 

[JvN]

... take a DI send from the SVT itself and blend the two at the FOH. Using the Micro when you have an SVT available seems redundent.

I always mike the 810. But in case I really have a fight with the tech I am looking for a DI. My SVT/V-4B rigs are from '71, so no XLR out there.

Maybe I could also run the Ext Amp from the SVT head into the M-VR and take the XLR DI out from there. Or would the SVT pre-amp signal be too hard on the M-VR?

 

[ddbassGA]

The volume difference between 30W and 50W isn't that much. I think that you would be better off in terms of volume by adding a second eight ohm 115 cab. Your back might disagree.

I have a 50 watt b-18 head and a couple of B-15's. The 50 watt head has significantly more usable volume than either the 25 watt cathode bias '64 or the fixed bias '66. Or the '71 B15N for that matter. The 50 watter really shines driving 2 B15 cabs. The difference has to be in the OT, cause there's no real reason to think a pair of 7027a would be louder than 6L6's.

I tried a B25 thinking it would be like the B-18 head, but very different: farts out way early -- well mine did. I had more usable volume with a B15.

 

[ddbassGA]

I always mike the 810. But in case I really have a fight with the tech I am looking for a DI. My SVT/V-4B rigs are from '71, so no XLR out there.

So get a DI box? Quarter inch cable from SVT to DI, XLR out to FOH. Cheap, simple, small.

 

[JvN]

I was considering buying the REDDI or Solo/610, but a Micro VR is even sexier on top of the SVT head...! Plus the VR-rig is about the same price as those tube DI's... so if it would work...?

 

[thedudebrah]

Number please! SVT-VR on top of my 8x10. Sound is unbeatable.

 

[esselbass]

Hey guys,

Long-time reader, first-time poster.

I picked this guy up yesterday and thought I'd better bring it before the experts for you to look at, and I have a few questions:

I think, from my research, the fact that it's a B-15NB means it's a 1963?

When I took it home there was some bad rattle, but I quickly figured it out it was that the second baffle was loose, so a few new nuts and it was good to go.

I had to learn some new tunes this afternoon so I ran it for a few hours, then played it for a few more hours tonight at a rehearsal. The amp is dead quiet, no hum. ...and it sounds INCREDIBLE. I'm really, really happy with it. Warm, round, even, full. Love it.

Had a few other questions for you guys:

I know those side handles aren't original, but what about that speaker with the square magnet? The foam on the inside of the cab? The knobs?

Also, is that tolex original? I don't recognize this style from any other fliptops I've seen. If it's original, I'll leave it, but if it's not, I may have it redone.

Last question, maybe the most important: I'm thinking of taking this guy out on the road with me (on tour), is that a really stupid idea?
The band I play with uses in-ears, and we bring a really hefty PA, so the volume is a non-issue.
Is it a foolish idea to take such an old amp around? I'd be getting a road case made for it if I did. Would it be smarter to get two so that the head and cab travel separately?

Any advice would be appreciated... Thanks guys!

Steve

 

[JimmyM]

#320 esselbass

Very little in that B-15 looks original, but who cares? Yours looks a lot like mine used to before I had it restored. Fortunately, you can still get everything you need to restore it if you're thinking about doing it, although I might hop on the blue diamond tolex as there was a shortage last year.

OK, here's what's not original for sure...

HEAD:

Knobs (stove top knobs were stock)

Tolex on chassis tray (really not sure what they used back then but pretty sure that's not original)

Light up plate is missing

CAB:

Tolex (blue diamond was stock from 63-67)

Grillcloth (stock is gray/silver with black horizontal lines)

Foam (they used fiberglass insulation on the back wall only, but I recommend breaking tradition here...I used a sheet of 1" Nu-Foam poly-fil on the back wall of my cabs, but it looks like what you have in there should work, although a bit of overkill)

Speaker (not sure about that...B-15NB's came stock with either a Jensen C15N, a JBL D130F, or a Cleveland. Definitely not a Jensen or JBL, not sure what the Cleveland looks like, but it looks more like a CTS to me, which were used in B-15's but not until 64).

Side handles (for wussies only)

Logo is missing

Tilt back rod is missing (I guess he covered it up with the tolex)

As for whether it'll hold up taking it out on the road with you...I take my 64 out all the time. Would have posted some pics, but I can't get on the site they're stored. I only bring it in my own personal van or car so I just use soft covers for it and flip the head inside. If you're taking it out in a trailer, you should definitely consider using a case with some cush padding, and I would likely take them separately. But it'll hold up to road use. They're pretty much tanks. Throw a mic on it, too!

 

[christw]

B-12 local to me for $1000. I can pick it up and ship it for you guys if needed. [Invalid or Expired Link Removed]

 

[stiles72]

I always mike the 810. But in case I really have a fight with the tech I am looking for a DI. My SVT/V-4B rigs are from '71, so no XLR out there

My B-100R and V4BH don't have XLR outs, so I just use a 1/4 to XLR adapter cord. On the SVT, just come from the Ext out jack into any standard passive DI Box. You don't need a tube DI when you're running off the SVT.

 

[jnewmark]

Amazing condition!

The 5AR4 is made by Mullard. The 6SL7's are made by Sylvania. GE power tubes. All very good to have. I also see the orange sticker issued by the City of Los Angeles.

Why would there be such a sticker ? And , as far as adding another cab, does that mean it can take a 4 ohm load ? I was wondering if I could use the head alone with my 4 ohm 212 cab.

 

[beans-on-toast]

The sticker was applied to amps used in LA to certify that it is safe to use. A manufacturer would pay to have a product "certified".

There's an ext. spkr. jack on the back of the amp. It is intended to use with an 8 ohm speaker cab. When you plug in, the main cab's speaker is connected in series with the external cab and is switched internally to a 16 ohm tap on the transformer.

People run these amps with a 4 ohm cab connected to the 8 ohm tap that the main speaker is normally connected to. Jess Oliver, the designer, used to re-cone the standard 8 ohm speaker with a 4 ohm speaker coil. This makes the power tubes run harder which wears them out faster. It also changes the character of the amp a bit because there is an impedance mismatch which allows more current to run through the output circuit. It seems that they amp can handle it. Fender used to do this with some of there amps. You can do this with some amps without any ill effects.

It isn't going to hurt to try your 210 cab. If you do, keep in mind that it is an old amp. My concern is that if the transformer is pushed and it overheats it could lead to a breakdown in the coating on the transformer's coil wires. This could cause a short and lead to a failure. Try it at low volume, keep an eye on the temperature of the output transformer. If it seems to work, go for it. If you had a new transformer in there, I wouldn't be so concerned. It all depends on what kind of shape your vintage transformer is in.

 

[jnewmark]

The sticker was applied to amps used in LA to certify that it is safe to use. A manufacturer would pay to have a product "certified".

There's an ext. spkr. jack on the back of the amp. It is intended to use with an 8 ohm speaker cab. When you plug in, the main cab's speaker is connected in series with the external cab and is switched internally to a 16 ohm tap on the transformer.

People run these amps with a 4 ohm cab connected to the 8 ohm tap that the main speaker is normally connected to. Jess Oliver, the designer, used to re-cone the standard 8 ohm speaker with a 4 ohm speaker coil. This makes the power tubes run harder which wears them out faster. It also changes the character of the amp a bit because there is an impedance mismatch which allows more current to run through the output circuit. It seems that they amp can handle it. Fender used to do this with some of there amps. You can do this with some amps without any ill effects.

It isn't going to hurt to try your 210 cab. If you do, keep in mind that it is an old amp. My concern is that if the transformer is pushed and it overheats it could lead to a breakdown in the coating on the transformer's coil wires. This could cause a short and lead to a failure. Try it at low volume, keep an eye on the temperature of the output transformer. If it seems to work, go for it. If you had a new transformer in there, I wouldn't be so concerned. It all depends on what kind of shape your vintage transformer is in.

So, if I'm understanding you correctly, using an extension, 8 ohm cab, WITH the internal speaker connected also, still gives an 8 ohm load ? I always thought that, with tube amps, you could go lower in loads, but not higher ?