• TalkBass has been independent since 1998. Add your voice.
    Create a free account to reply to discussions, view embedded media, and browse with fewer display ads.
    Join freeLog in
    Want zero display ads or expanded classifieds tools? Compare plans.

OFFICIAL ASHDOWN CLUB

Btw it’s been mentioned but the older lb30 is much more aggressive than the lb302.n. Each iteration is a little different usually in a fun and interesting way.


I own an LB30 Mk1, LB30 Mk2, and CTM 30 Little Stubby. I would say the Mk1 and Stubby sound most similar. The Mk1 is more vintage sounding and Stubby is a bit more modern and also leaner down low. Both do clean and distortion well. Mk1 is slightly more versatile due to the tone network switches, but the Stubby is easier to dial in. I think both LB30s have slightly more clean headroom than Stubby.

The Mk2 is voiced significantly different. More mid-scooped and huge lows. It also has more clean headroom in the preamp than the Mk1. You can easily push the output section into drive, but IMHO this version seems to excel more at clean than OD.

I don't hear any difference when I toggle the Bass tone switch...I believe it sets to the LPF cutoff, and both are so low you can't hear the change. The Mid tone switch changes the shape of the mid scoop. In the more mid-forward position the Mid rotary makes a very subtle changes, providing you have the Bass and Treble low enough. In the more mid-scooped position, turning the Mid rotary seems to have no effect, unless the Bass and Treble are completely CCW.

Don't get me wrong, the Mk2 is a great sounding amp, but I find the way the tone network responds to inputs a bit frustrating. Why put controls on the amp that don't actually work, or barely work.
 
  • Like
Reactions: foal30
Isn't the LB30 less than the ctm15? I've bought two of them in the 650-750 range one if them being a UK build
Current lb30 is the lb302.n which has a lot more features and a lot higher price. Snagging a used ctm30, older lb30 or a little stubby used would probably be the way to go, but the new ones have a built in load so they can run silent.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Wasnex and Nuage420
Next question - can I use the DI on the Studio 12 to send a signal to a powered extension cabinet or do I need to run the signal through a preamp first?


Not enough info to answer the question. Check how well the output level of the DI matches the input sensitivity of the powered cab.

Usually DIs put out mic level. Usually power cabs expect line level. But there are exceptions where DIs put out line level, and some powered cabs have inputs that work with mic level.
 
Yep! My old Ashdown electric blue 180 in the background, and my old Stingray 5 classic (I play a Caprice these days). Damn I wish I had never sold that particular ray though...
Hey Gregory! It has been awhile.

I love the look of the Ashdown head! I need to find one.

Here’s the PB ‘13 NR with the ‘08 Ampeg VR (Blueline Reissue). A great Thunderbird from a great TBer coupled with the classic 70’s tone of the Ampeg.

IMG_2989.jpeg

Hope all is well my friend. Cheers!
 
Wow, it's wild how pricing is all over the place for dang near everything this year.

To be honest, I've been contemplating trading my BTA for a CTM. So as to have different/less overlap of tones available...it's one of those side thoughts that keep hitting me every once in a while.

Maybe check in with @Wasnex regarding BTA v CTM if you haven’t been able to run through both. Also the full CTM range 15 - 300) definitely are not the same according to Wasnex

Hopefully you can demo one!
 
  • Like
Reactions: Wasnex
Maybe check in with @Wasnex regarding BTA v CTM if you haven’t been able to run through both. Also the full CTM range 15 - 300) definitely are not the same according to Wasnex

Hopefully you can demo one!


We had PM.

I have not played a BTA, but I have been keeping my eyes out for a BTA 400 Mk2. Most of the BTAs I have seen for sale recently have been Custom Shop amps, and I want a Mk2 from the original production run.

AFAIK the CTM 100, 200, and 300 share the same preamp design. I have a CTM 300 and its darker than most tube amps and has stronger mids than most amps with Fender tone stacks. The tone rotaries are extremely interactive and can be frustrating if not confounding. However the preamp is capable of getting a variety of really nice tones, although making adjustments does not always produce the expected results. Not everyone agrees with me, but the low mids of this amp sort of reminds me of my SVTs. This amp has a relatively high gain preamp that drives extremely easy. So it does distortion, but it does not grind like an SVT IMHO.

The original LB30s were from the Dual Tube era. So they have a different preamp and voicing. The CTM30s were said to be the same amps as the LB30 with different cosmetics. I have a Mk1 and Mk2 LB30 and I believe the tones stacks are a bit different due to a change in how one of the capacitors is connected and different component values. I suspect there are some small differences with the CTM 30s as well.

The Mk1 LB30 is closer in sound to older Dual Tube amps. It's not exactly Fendery but it's more in that direction. It's more mid range focused and all three tone controls function in a Fendery way.

The Mk2 is cleaner sounding and has huge lows, glassy highs, and a deeper mid scoop. It's a really nice "bedroom tone," if you know what I mean. The Bass and Treble controls behave as expected but the mid control does little to nothing, depending on how the Mid Freq switch is set. I don't hear any change when I toggle the Low Freq switch. I think it selects two HPF frequencies and both are so low I can't sense the change. The Mk1 and Mk2 are both much brighter than the CTM 300.

I also have a CTM 30 Little Stubby. IMHO this one has the best behaved tone stack across all of the Ashdown tube amps in my collections. It's easy to adjust because it works exactly like I expect. However it's not quite as versatile as most of the other amps. It's voiced similar to the LB30 Mk1, but a bit leaner down low. Both do drive. I would say the LB 30 Mk1 distortion is more vintagey sounding (think late 60s-early 70s). The Little Stubby has a bit more modern distortion sound.

I have not played a CTM 15. There appears to be a new version on the market. The older version has a solid state buffer on the preamp so it's not really all tube. Also I have read multiple comments that suggested it's better for guitar than bass. Weak lows and inadequate clean headroom for bass.
 
  • Like
Reactions: foal30
Hey Gregory! It has been awhile.

I love the look of the Ashdown head! I need to find one.

Here’s the PB ‘13 NR with the ‘08 Ampeg VR (Blueline Reissue). A great Thunderbird from a great TBer coupled with the classic 70’s tone of the Ampeg.

View attachment 5131490
Hope all is well my friend. Cheers!

Glad you are still enjoying that Thunderbird! It always deserved a lot more play than I was able to give it! It's still one of the best looking bass guitars I ever owned. Really sounds fantastic through all those nice old school amps! Hope you are doing well!
 
  • Like
Reactions: MCF