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oo man id keep the black black maple. its a classic combo and i wouldnt mess with it!
+2!
I've got the same exact bass model and color combination, but mine's a lefty. Keep the combo - it's as sweet and classic as it gets!
See, I ordered the pickguard before I ordered the bass. Now that I have the bass and see it in its glory, I can really appreciate what you guys are saying. I just might stick with the combo. Who knows?
Hey guys,
Just got my hands on this beauty, a used natural finish SR5 in immaculate condition. Just put some new Slinky's on it and did a setup, sounds awesome! Seller thought it was a '95, but I'm not sure, as it's in too good condition to be that old! Will write down the serial # and do a search, see what I can figure out.
Cheers,
EG
Just got my hands on this beauty, a used natural finish SR5 in immaculate condition. Just put some new Slinky's on it and did a setup, sounds awesome! Seller thought it was a '95, but I'm not sure, as it's in too good condition to be that old! Will write down the serial # and do a search, see what I can figure out.
Cheers,
EG
Attachments
All I could find for a pic
due to the black and white unfortunatley you cannot see the beautiful crimson color
due to the black and white unfortunatley you cannot see the beautiful crimson color
Post it up (the serial# ) on the EB forums, they can tell you the exact date it was made
I have a Stering fretless that I really like - but I don't play it all that often at gigs. Anyway, I'm seriously Jonesing for a SR5. My concerns are:
1. Is there really a difference in sound between a maple and RW board? Or is it that one bass just sounds better than another?
2. The old Fender P and J basses usually had dead spots on the G string - particularly from C - E. How are the necks for dead spots on these? (I've been playing Modulus basses M92 5-string and VJ4. There just aren't any dead spots on the necks.)
3. What's a fair price for a clean SR5?
Thanks!!
1. Is there really a difference in sound between a maple and RW board? Or is it that one bass just sounds better than another?
2. The old Fender P and J basses usually had dead spots on the G string - particularly from C - E. How are the necks for dead spots on these? (I've been playing Modulus basses M92 5-string and VJ4. There just aren't any dead spots on the necks.)
3. What's a fair price for a clean SR5?
Thanks!!
I totally feel your pain. I just went thru this and recently picked one up. NO regrets!!!!
IMHO, yes. The maple board will be a little brighter and crisper... especially at the high end. The rosewood board would be a touch warmer. Not night/day, but I think it's noticeable.
Unfortunately, the SR5 can also have these, but for some reason, it doesn't seem to be on as many basses. I think a lot of it has to do with a good sized headstock and the wood they choose for the neck. Mine is GREAT through that range, and I'm especially particular about that.
I typically see these go for 850-950 used. New, they're around 1500 (street) for a standard single-H model that's not a special edition or something.
One piece of advice... get a single-H version... especially if you're really looking for that SR "bite". The H is the ONLY one that has series mode, which IMHO is a required tone on an SR. Also, IMHO, the pseudo single-coil mode is much nicer 'cause the phantom coil is right on the bottom of the pickup instead of being another single-coil pickup that's simply sunk down in the body under the pickguard. The aperture is smaller, giving greater focus.
This is NOT to dis the HH and HS models... I do like those, but every time I played them I was missing series mode. If I were to get a SECOND SR, I'd prolly get a HS or HH, but not as a first/only one.
Finally, they're not all really heavy. Mine's a KILLER SR5 and it only weighs 9.3 pounds.
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