Hi guys,
I have what I have just found to be a common problem. I just snapped my truss rod at the zero fret.
I bought this bass two days ago, and have been slowly working the truss rod to straighten the neck over the last two days.
I feel so silly, and am“ always” ( guess the proof is in the pudding) so careful with these things.
I am quite crestfallen, and have seen the well documented horror of pulling up the fretboard that was so well documented here, and dont wish to recreate that experience.
There was a member who claimed to have replaced the rod without this. From his photos, I dont understand what he did. I sent him a message asking, but he doesnt seem to be particularly active.
Additionally I have gotten in touch with Headless USA asking for a repair quote.
I have two main questions at this time:
Has anyone gotten a definitive answer from the “ I replaced my truss without removig the board” guy with better details?
Does anyone have an example of the proper truss rod I should be replacing this with? Apparently it is 26” and the longest I could find is 25” on allparts. I would not be looking to skimp. I would like to avoide this ( obviously ) in the future.
I’m pretty dissapointed, and any help would be really appeciated.
-M
Sorry to hear this. Is it snapped at the fret or above the 'block' that extends into the cavity beyond the fret? And I think I'm familiar with that thread, in which I posted some pictures of a bass at GC here in town that has it's threaded portion snapped off.
From what I can discern from those photos, this is the repair:
1. Whatever portion of carbon or plastic or whatever is in that cavity must be removed to expose some length of the truss rod (it didn't appear to me to be a portion of the carbon fiber insert, but I'm not sure.)
2. Then, if possible, the end of the rod must be re-tapped (via a truss rod kit from Allparts or another vendor).
3. A threaded metal sleeve may then be affixed to this end (and secured via epoxy, JB Weld, etc.).
4. To complete the repair, a threaded rod or possibly a hex-head bolt may be threaded into the 'sleeve', with a new 'stop' added to the end of the neck of the bass. Probably a threaded rod so that it's end may be epoxied into the threaded sleeve, and then have the nut exposed at the end of the bass.
5. Or, one might find a larger sleeve that fits over the threaded one and pushes against a 'stop' where the rod enters the neck under the fretboard (which would need to be placed prior to epoxying the threaded sleeve to the original TR).
Hopefully all of that made sense. If not, PM me. I was contemplating this as a solution for the bass at GC but after looking at it further, it appears that the neck has re-'set' itself into a permanently bowed position that wouldn't respond well to even a fixed truss rod, not to mention the possibility of snapping it again.
And, in consideration of your post, I think I will no longer consider a Synapse for purchase despite how much I loved the tone and form-factor. Many others are probably fine but I no longer feel they are worth the risk.
Let us know if you are successful in repairing your bass.
Raz