• TalkBass has been independent since 1998. Add your voice.
    Create a free account to reply to discussions, view embedded media, and browse with fewer display ads.
    Join freeLog in
    Want zero display ads or expanded classifieds tools? Compare plans.

OFFICIAL Steinberger Synapse club

However, I took it to the guitar tech there and asked him to adjust the truss rod because the neck looked like a ski jump. He emphatically said "no" and the reason why was because the truss rod had snapped off. They still had it marked at $799!!
Cheers y'all,

Raz

This one?? I've been watching it, thinking I might jump when they drop the price. Thanks for saving me!!

I don't understand my own fascination with these basses. I've owned 3 Spirits, a Hohner and a Cort. I keep them a couple months, then sell them. Then a year later, I'm drawn back in....:help:
I haven't really followed the Synapses, but assumed they would be a step up. I started researching again, because of this one. Once again...THANKS!!

Synapse Truss Broken.png
 
  • Like
Reactions: Felix Lopez
I don't understand my own fascination with these basses. I've owned 3 Spirits, a Hohner and a Cort. I keep them a couple months, then sell them. Then a year later, I'm drawn back in....:help:

Those are the low end ones. I was friends with a guy who played a fretless XL2 and I fell in love with it after playing it a few times. I eventually got myself a spirit which was a poor imitation of it, and when I got myself a Synapse when they came out the difference was like night and day in terms of feel and sound. The Spirits are passive - the Synapse EQ is really nice. The synapse also has a bridge piezo along with the magnetic PU which gives you a nice range of tones.
 
  • Like
Reactions: 2cooltoolz
This one?? I've been watching it, thinking I might jump when they drop the price. Thanks for saving me!!

I don't understand my own fascination with these basses. I've owned 3 Spirits, a Hohner and a Cort. I keep them a couple months, then sell them. Then a year later, I'm drawn back in....:help:
I haven't really followed the Synapses, but assumed they would be a step up. I started researching again, because of this one. Once again...THANKS!!

View attachment 3033913
I hadn't been really drawn to them due to my tonal needs but this one fits the bill, hence my interest (not to mention it's compact size).

However, I'd steer clear of this one unless you are prepared to deal with it - but definitely not at that price. Not sure what they are smoking over there, perhaps someone took them for a ride and got a bit of $$ for it, hence the pricing. That said, I may go take another look at it just so I understand clearly what the two main issues are with these basses: the truss rod and the string adapter/holder.

I use Kalium balanced strings (.142 hybrid stainless right now) and would want to put them on this bass. I can't do that if the clamp at the top is going to shatter when I tighten it onto the strings. WTH??

Additionally, someone fixed the truss rod in this thread here:

removing my phenolic fretboard: Steinberger Synapse truss replacement

I think I may know how they did it, and without the apparently disastrous process of removing the fret board. I may explore that more in the luthier section if I could buy it at a reasonable price, but it's not in the budget now.

Also, on this bass, the screws securing the strap hangar and flip-out lever on the bottom (for playing when seated) are loose - why would they not put brass inserts in there instead of just into the wood?? They need to be filled & re-drilled. These are niggles I can deal with for the right price - and worth it for the tone to me - but it's a $300 bass as it sits right now.

If I look at it again I'll post more thoughts and possibly pics here to keep you updated.

Raz
 
So I went by there today and had them pull the headpiece off - truss rod is snapped at the base of the carbon tunnel (at least I think that's what that part is protruding hallway into the cavity - pics to follow). I don't know if that is a spacer that can come out, or part of the stiffening rod. Either way, it would have to be removed to allow access to the end of the truss rod.

The string retainers are intact, but the gap for the low B string is .134" - not big enough for my .142 unless I sanded that end down a bit. Worst case I could just remove them and purchase a retainer for the strings and run them through the headpiece.

Lastly - as we were restringing the bass (had GC's tech helping me with all of this) I loosened them and sighted the neck to see if it was flat w/o any tension, and to my disappointment it had some positive relief even with loose strings - not good! Seems as if the neck has been sitting that way for so long that it is now permanently bowed. Even if one were to fix the truss rod, it would now be fighting the neck which has set itself this way along with string tension - a recipe for disaster again IMO!

Even if you could get it for less than three bills you might be stuck with something only good for the parts on it.

Sigh...
 

Attachments

  • 0365FB41-0030-40A3-AADB-870403DCBAF9.jpeg
    0365FB41-0030-40A3-AADB-870403DCBAF9.jpeg
    489.9 KB · Views: 60
  • D6939325-AE6E-426B-B5A7-F8016EE23796.jpeg
    D6939325-AE6E-426B-B5A7-F8016EE23796.jpeg
    637.4 KB · Views: 63
  • 8B368AFA-C87A-4AF4-B20D-1CCB7B285EB3.jpeg
    8B368AFA-C87A-4AF4-B20D-1CCB7B285EB3.jpeg
    704.3 KB · Views: 65
  • 50E668EB-4DBD-4642-8068-1F3EAA2B9029.jpeg
    50E668EB-4DBD-4642-8068-1F3EAA2B9029.jpeg
    603.4 KB · Views: 64
  • Like
Reactions: 2cooltoolz
Hi guys,

I have what I have just found to be a common problem. I just snapped my truss rod at the zero fret.

I bought this bass two days ago, and have been slowly working the truss rod to straighten the neck over the last two days.

I feel so silly, and am“ always” ( guess the proof is in the pudding) so careful with these things.

I am quite crestfallen, and have seen the well documented horror of pulling up the fretboard that was so well documented here, and dont wish to recreate that experience.

There was a member who claimed to have replaced the rod without this. From his photos, I dont understand what he did. I sent him a message asking, but he doesnt seem to be particularly active.

Additionally I have gotten in touch with Headless USA asking for a repair quote.

I have two main questions at this time:

Has anyone gotten a definitive answer from the “ I replaced my truss without removig the board” guy with better details?

Does anyone have an example of the proper truss rod I should be replacing this with? Apparently it is 26” and the longest I could find is 25” on allparts. I would not be looking to skimp. I would like to avoide this ( obviously ) in the future.

I’m pretty dissapointed, and any help would be really appeciated.

-M
 
Hi guys,

I have what I have just found to be a common problem. I just snapped my truss rod at the zero fret.

I bought this bass two days ago, and have been slowly working the truss rod to straighten the neck over the last two days.

I feel so silly, and am“ always” ( guess the proof is in the pudding) so careful with these things.

I am quite crestfallen, and have seen the well documented horror of pulling up the fretboard that was so well documented here, and dont wish to recreate that experience.

There was a member who claimed to have replaced the rod without this. From his photos, I dont understand what he did. I sent him a message asking, but he doesnt seem to be particularly active.

Additionally I have gotten in touch with Headless USA asking for a repair quote.

I have two main questions at this time:

Has anyone gotten a definitive answer from the “ I replaced my truss without removig the board” guy with better details?

Does anyone have an example of the proper truss rod I should be replacing this with? Apparently it is 26” and the longest I could find is 25” on allparts. I would not be looking to skimp. I would like to avoide this ( obviously ) in the future.

I’m pretty dissapointed, and any help would be really appeciated.

-M
Sorry to hear this. Is it snapped at the fret or above the 'block' that extends into the cavity beyond the fret? And I think I'm familiar with that thread, in which I posted some pictures of a bass at GC here in town that has it's threaded portion snapped off.

From what I can discern from those photos, this is the repair:
1. Whatever portion of carbon or plastic or whatever is in that cavity must be removed to expose some length of the truss rod (it didn't appear to me to be a portion of the carbon fiber insert, but I'm not sure.)
2. Then, if possible, the end of the rod must be re-tapped (via a truss rod kit from Allparts or another vendor).
3. A threaded metal sleeve may then be affixed to this end (and secured via epoxy, JB Weld, etc.).
4. To complete the repair, a threaded rod or possibly a hex-head bolt may be threaded into the 'sleeve', with a new 'stop' added to the end of the neck of the bass. Probably a threaded rod so that it's end may be epoxied into the threaded sleeve, and then have the nut exposed at the end of the bass.
5. Or, one might find a larger sleeve that fits over the threaded one and pushes against a 'stop' where the rod enters the neck under the fretboard (which would need to be placed prior to epoxying the threaded sleeve to the original TR).

Hopefully all of that made sense. If not, PM me. I was contemplating this as a solution for the bass at GC but after looking at it further, it appears that the neck has re-'set' itself into a permanently bowed position that wouldn't respond well to even a fixed truss rod, not to mention the possibility of snapping it again.

And, in consideration of your post, I think I will no longer consider a Synapse for purchase despite how much I loved the tone and form-factor. Many others are probably fine but I no longer feel they are worth the risk.

Let us know if you are successful in repairing your bass.

Raz
 
  • Like
Reactions: acroce
Truss rods are tricky for any bass. I had picked-up a Cort Curbow fretless recently that looked perfectly fine. I went to lower the action and adjust the truss rod and found the nut was stripped and seized. Luckily I made a deal with a Luther that worked at a shop around here and he worked on it in his spare time (took ~3 months) in exchange for a decent price. I've bought other basses with bum truss-rods (Carvin). It's the nature of the beast. I'd say don't count out a Synapse because there are a few with problems out there. My $0.02 anyway...
 
  • Like
Reactions: Felix Lopez

Latest posts