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Official TUNE Club

After getting caught up in other things for a year,I finally started on a special project.
The removal and replacement of plastic electronics cavity covers.

After a balsa wood test,I proceeded with a mahogany laminate .125 set from Ocooch Hardwoods.Ocooch Hardwoods - Thin Wood for Scroll Sawing, Laser Engraving/Cutting, Woodturning, Intarsia and More

I found that that first set was too thin.

So I ordered and started a .187 mahogany set.
They will stick up a bit and will have a rounded edge.
Sanding and fitting.
View attachment 4434776

After cutting,trimming and fitting,I lightly beveled the bottom edge with my Dremel.
I then hand sanded the top edges for a nice rounded edge.

Screw holes and then a stain was applied.
View attachment 4434777
View attachment 4434778 View attachment 4434779
I would like to put in trim pot access holes,but I need to find a method for locating the exact spot the trim pots are to drill the holes.
Very cool. When you say that the .125 set was too thin, do you mean that it was less than the thickness indicated, or that you just wanted it to stick up above the body?
 
Very cool. When you say that the .125 set was too thin, do you mean that it was less than the thickness indicated, or that you just wanted it to stick up above the body?
Both.
It was too flexible.
And I decided that thicker(not level with the back surface) would be aesthetically pleasing.
 
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That's lovely. Looks really nice. The back plate on mine is metal, so I'm just going to leave as is, but I really like the look of the wood.

As for trim pot access, wouldn't you be able to tansfer over the locations from the original back cover plate?
 
That's lovely. Looks really nice. The back plate on mine is metal, so I'm just going to leave as is, but I really like the look of the wood.

As for trim pot access, wouldn't you be able to tansfer over the locations from the original back cover plate?
There aren't any on the originals.
20191202_042103~2.jpg
 
hmmm. That is a conundrum. I wonder if you can order a new back plate with the holes in it and transfer from that. I'd hate to guess at where the holes should be. On the other hand, how often would you be adjusting them anyway?
 
hmmm. That is a conundrum. I wonder if you can order a new back plate with the holes in it and transfer from that. I'd hate to guess at where the holes should be. On the other hand, how often would you be adjusting them anyway?
I don't think that Tune Hatsun(Korea) ever made a TWB63 with a cavity cover with trim pot access holes.
If they did,it would likely be sold in BULK.
Not individually.

I don't adjust them that often enough to need holes.
But I would like to have them if possible.

I am already experimenting with the plastic ones.
 
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I don't think that Tune Hatsun(Korea) ever made a TWB63 with a cavity cover with trim pot access holes.
If they did,it would likely be sold in BULK.
Not individually.

I don't adjust them that often enough to need holes.
But I would like to have them if possible.

I am already experimenting with the plastic ones.
Yes - make a copy in clear plastic, so you can see the pots... then using anything with a point on it, punch a mark directly over the pots, drill a hole small enough to allow the size screwdriver you want to use... once you're satisfied with the holes ( you may have to make a clear template or two?..) transfer that to the new covers you've made... and viola! Accessible covers, that you can sell to the world! :D
 
Yes - make a copy in clear plastic, so you can see the pots... then using anything with a point on it, punch a mark directly over the pots, drill a hole small enough to allow the size screwdriver you want to use... once you're satisfied with the holes ( you may have to make a clear template or two?..) transfer that to the new covers you've made... and viola! Accessible covers, that you can sell to the world! :D
Winner, winner, chicken dinner!
:roflmao:
 
I’ve had a few electronics issues with my wb4-F.
It’s a piezo-only model with dual 9 volt batteries, and an incredibly complex looking array of inner circuitboard panels, etc. I tried adjusting the many trimpots to get a decent sound, but I still wasn’t thrilled with the piezo sound characteristics.
In addition, there’s a battery drain happening that kinda makes it useless.
I had the output jack replaced because it was definitely worn, but apparently that wasnt the culprit.
I love the actual instrument, so I’ve been thinking of adding a magnetic pickup.
I didn’t want to do any body routing without first seeing how feasible the idea would be.
SO….Yesterday I got a Lace USAB thinline pickup that is prewired to a female output jack, and got some putty to try the pickup out in different locations. (Well, basically either right next to the bridge, or up to about 1” away from it were the only locations the surface mount would work without hindering string travel).
I love the sound of it, and actually thinking I will be fine without any extraneous volume or tone controls added in. In fact I wonder if the lack of them actually contributes to the full, pure sound.
My next sort of dilemna is taking out all the original internals to make this bass a super simple passive setup.
I know i would never miss the piezo, or the active 3-band cut/boost electronics sound. I would have to find a way to plug the 4 knob holes that would be left in the body.:help:
https://share.icloud.com
 

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I’ve had a few electronics issues with my wb4-F.
It’s a piezo-only model with dual 9 volt batteries, and an incredibly complex looking array of inner circuitboard panels, etc. I tried adjusting the many trimpots to get a decent sound, but I still wasn’t thrilled with the piezo sound characteristics.
In addition, there’s a battery drain happening that kinda makes it useless.
I had the output jack replaced because it was definitely worn, but apparently that wasnt the culprit.
I love the actual instrument, so I’ve been thinking of adding a magnetic pickup.
I didn’t want to do any body routing without first seeing how feasible the idea would be.
SO….Yesterday I got a Lace USAB thinline pickup that is prewired to a female output jack, and got some putty to try the pickup out in different locations. (Well, basically either right next to the bridge, or up to about 1” away from it were the only locations the surface mount would work without hindering string travel).
I love the sound of it, and actually thinking I will be fine without any extraneous volume or tone controls added in. In fact I wonder if the lack of them actually contributes to the full, pure sound.
My next sort of dilemna is taking out all the original internals to make this bass a super simple passive setup.
I know i would never miss the piezo, or the active 3-band cut/boost electronics sound. I would have to find a way to plug the 4 knob holes that would be left in the body.:help:
https://share.icloud.com
In all my blathering in my last post, I forgot to mention the icloud link I shared. :rolleyes:
It’s about a minute long recording of me playing the Lace pickup through my Markbass combo,
with just a bit of reverb added.
I have the pickup positioned very close to the bridge, and it has a really nice warm full sound.
 
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Got my wb4f switched over to a passive Lace USAB pickup last week.
The tech did a fantastic job, unsoldering the 4 piezo leads and removing all the Tune circuitry.
It can be returned to stock, if anyone should ever want to. (I won’t miss it;))
The new pickup is wired straight to output, so all volume and tone settings are via the amp/pedals.
It finally sounds like what I’ve wanted,(and was unable to get with the piezo/active circuitry).
Warm,clean,full, and articulate. The Lace pickup sounds fantastic with a bit of VT overdrive, too.
Still have to figure out something to hide the control knob holes, though.
3B6986E4-F07A-427D-A624-968A08BB1E5D.jpeg
C29C634D-7FAD-4BF0-BD97-85A9A030F783.jpeg
 
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I'd say put the board back in, and put the knobs back on... otherwise, buy some bolts/nuts that can be installed in the holes, that allows you to put the original knobs back on... two suggestions... after that, a guard that installs over the holes, that gets screwed on... but I hate to see you have to drill into the body if you don't have to...

I agree. Put the knobs back on. No one needs to know that you don't need to use them... Looks better than the holes, and probably better than anything you could do to cover them.