• TalkBass has been independent since 1998. Add your voice.
    Create a free account to reply to discussions, view embedded media, and browse with fewer display ads.
    Join freeLog in
    Want zero display ads or expanded classifieds tools? Compare plans.

Official Zon Club Part 4

Status
Not open for further replies.
J, I am not sure if I even remember what he recommends. Modulus suggests WD40 on their phenolic boards, which are similar but use a cellulose paper base (iirc, that may be incorrect), and some people use bore oil. WD40 would work fine though.

Addison, phenolic resin isn't a specific thing- there are many different kinds, which slight to large variations in chemical structure. As a result, the physical properties can vary a fair bit, especially if used on in different substrates (ie, wood, glasses, etc). A fiberglass substrate is going to act differently in water than something wood or starch-based, even with the same exact resin.

I like my neck DEAD straight, too- the neck on my 6 string just settled into no relief. That was the neck I was referencing. My 5 string set-neck has some tension in the rod, though, and moves substantially more- that I have to adjust it every six months or so.

I have a friend who has a Zon with a neck that moves much more frequently. It happens. My new Modulus moves waaaaay more than my old one did. Luck of the draw?

Regular adjustment is unusual, but it can happen. If you are wildly particular (like I am), then I can imagine adjusting more often. I just have instruments that do not require it. If they did, I would get a new one. I agree with your initial comments that it should not move much/often, but just wanted to clarify that it CAN happen.

Generally they settle into something after a few years and don't move much for a while after that unless there are big climate changes.
 
Ok, cool... I think we're both on the same page, then.

I was just being dramatic to prove a point.

WD40 is recommended in the last ZON manual that I read... and since I'm going to eventually be redoing those, I think the last one is the most current one.

I'd copy and paste the link, but the ZON site appears to be down today for some reason.

:eyebrow:
 
There is tension on mine always, since the prefabricated relief is a little too much for my taste... I like a REALLY flat neck (it's probably too flat, but oh well) so maybe the constant counter-tension on my necks explains why I have literally never had to touch it once after my initial adjustments.



Ok, thanks for clarifying in a way that makes sense to me.

I know that phenolic resin is also used in all-weather WBP plywoods for building outdoors... and those DO need the assistance of an outer finish to avoid warping over time, but those woods are not even NEAR the quality or caliber of the phenowood that is used for fingerboards... which is why I even mentioned the tub thing. If a piece of unfinished WBP plywood can go an entire season of sun, rain and/or snow without warping as what happens regularly when building homes in areas like where I live, a Zon neck should be fine in a tub overnight.

Anyway, even after all of the explanation, there is no "good reason" that a Zon neck should have to be constantly readjusted due to climate change, correct?

I mean, you said you needed to adjust 3-4 times over 7 years... I haven't had to once in 4 years living in the arctic tundra winter/hot summer wasteland I live in... and golower is implying it needs to be done fairly regularly.

That's why I'm confused and made my initial comments.

I've noticed over the last 15+ years of owning various makes of carbonfiber/ graphite necks that many of them take a day or so to show the full adjustment when you tweak the truss rod. That has made me do very slight adjustments over a few days of owning the instrument to get the initial setup, and them I'm usually set for the life of the instrument. My basses go through pretty drastic temp and humidity changes with no noticeable movement.

My 2000 modulus Q6 required more adjustments because of the Chechen fretboard. My Status S2 6 string required about as much attention as. Wooden neck bass.

Any basses I've had w a phenolic fretboard or the phenowood on Joe's basses have required basically an initial setup and that's it.

My modulus VJ hasn't moved in nearly 10 years of regular playing with a variety of strings.

So make small adjustments w the trussrod and be aware that it may be a day or two before you see the full adjustment
 
I got my Zon on the first delivery day of January 2013. I dont like taking the neck off to adjust the action. The action was too high so every time I changed strings I adjusted it down a tad bit. The fourth time it started to buzz some - no big deal. I just changed strings for the fifth time and went back the other way a tad bit with the Truss rod. i dont like taking the neck off my Zon and never will like it ever.The B and E still buzz but not as much so iam going to wait another couple months to adjust it again and hopefully I will find the proper adjustment soon so Addison doesnt self destruct and I can quit taking my neck off .
 
A nice shot of one of my Vinny's, I love this bass!
 

Attachments

  • vb4_body_2.jpg
    vb4_body_2.jpg
    77.8 KB · Views: 100
Very cool, I've had gas for one of these for a while.

I hear ya, people say I'm crazy when I tell them Vinny's have become my only basses. But having owned everything, including 40 Fodera's, the sound and playability of these instruments are amazing. I prefer the Vinny's sound over other Zon's I've had, including the Todd Johnson's model. Their 70's slap tone is to die for as well.
 
I hear ya, people say I'm crazy when I tell them Vinny's have become my only basses. But having owned everything, including 40 Fodera's, the sound and playability of these instruments are amazing. I prefer the Vinny's sound over other Zon's I've had, including the Todd Johnson's model. Their 70's slap tone is to die for as well.

My Vinny had that insanely great slap tone as well. Punchy as hell- it certainly didn't have the "typical" Zon tone.
 
hopefully I will find the proper adjustment soon so Addison doesnt self destruct and I can quit taking my neck off .

Self destruct?

Uhhhh... yeah, I don't think so. I was actually a little worried about you.

That's gotta be at least the 3rd or 4th lengthy post I've seen where you have complained in some way about truss rod adjustment and having to take your neck off all the time.

Maybe it's less than that... but it seems like more.

You're the only person I've ever seen who has made this complaint and I found that pretty odd.
 
Does your board suffer if you don't treat it ? DD40 is a lubricant and it seems like I don't want it on my bass.Even after you wipe it off isn't it going to transfer to your strings or does it soak in or what?
DD40 seams hard to even get off your hands with soap and water .
 
You can use other fretboard treatments like bore oil, too. Just need something to provide a hydrophobic barrier against hand sweat and moisture.

WD40 is fine, but the trick is that you spray a very small amount on a rag, wipe it on the fingerboard, let it soak for ~10-30 minutes, then wipe off the excess. Let dry a bit, clean the frets thoroughly, then you should not have any excess residue to get on the strings.

It is good to keep up maintenance. How often is up to you. It can rarely hurt, but avoiding it for long periods of time increases the chances of issues. No guarantees either way.
 
You can use other fretboard treatments like bore oil, too. Just need something to provide a hydrophobic barrier against hand sweat and moisture.

.

I've had great success with "Dr. Ducks Ax Wax", it has no abrasives, no synthetics, no silicones, no acids, it contains no petroleum distillates. its can also be used as a string lube, but I find it to be an excellent product for the phenowood fretboards, I also use it on my satin finish as well. No odor or smell either, a little goes a long way, one bottle will last a long time.
 
It is probably just repackaged bore oil. Most products are.

Their website makes me feel nostalgic for 1994.

(Them and BassNW ought to have their websites placed in the Smithsonian for the current generation to see.)
 
Good morning all!
So I'm actually interested in purchasing a Sonus or Legacy Standard to get my feet wet in the Zon world. Any advice/experiences would be greatly appreciated!

The standards in my opinion are nothing like a Zon what so ever. A Zon has a graphite neck, period. Maybe some will disagree, but don't judge Zons by their standard series. Much different than say Lakland and their Skyline series.
 
Good morning all!
So I'm actually interested in purchasing a Sonus or Legacy Standard to get my feet wet in the Zon world. Any advice/experiences would be greatly appreciated!

I agree with the other cats : hold out for a carbon-necked model. USA Sonuses are regularly showing up for under $2000 around here. The carbon neck is what MAKES a Zon, at least for me -- it's just an incredible platform on which to make music, super stable, huge sound, harmonics like crazy, etc etc etc.

I played wood-necked Js for 15 years before I got my first Sonus. It'd be no overstatement to say that the carbon-necked Zons have changed my musical life.


p.s. You should try a fretless Zon, they're out of control
 
Status
Not open for further replies.