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OK, I'm convinced...I need a real power supply

I only use one pedal - an always on VMT that won't take a battery. It sits on my cab and its powered by a designated OneSpot. Is the humming an issue if there's just one pedal getting power from a OneSpot, as opposed using any old proper spec 9v AC adapter?
 
...PS: If anyone tells me to do a search, I will kidney punch your voodoo doll.
Could you then hit it with your rhythm stick? :smug:
In general switched power supplies can cause a lot of trouble. Only if they are terminated by a good filter, they may be hum free. The old-fashioned supplies with mains transformer are a safer choice regarding hum. Proper grounding may help as well, but I'm pretty sure you know.
 
I only use one pedal - an always on VMT that won't take a battery. It sits on my cab and its powered by a designated OneSpot. Is the humming an issue if there's just one pedal getting power from a OneSpot, as opposed using any old proper spec 9v AC adapter?
Yep, does it with one pedal or all.

So I called around to the local stores, and found out that the BBE Supa Charger is now discontinued. Found some on Amazon and snagged one, though.
 
What is it that makes the One Spot work for some, but be noisy for others? Is it primarily because it is switch mode DC power? Is it daisy chaining?

Generally when myself or a bandmate would get a hum via onespot it was because we'd started to exceed it's 1700ma.. but I've read it can also be due to impedance issues with the pedals themselves.. they suggest trying to order them differently.. before switching to my power brick I had to take my Digitech BSW out of the signal because it was power hungry. I never really used it anyway.
 
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When I buy a pedal, (I have only 4) I put a large sticker on the bottom with its input and output impedence, and its draw in milli-amps and milli-watts in large bold type. I put a large sticker on the side of my One Spot also with its power capacity in both milli-amps and milli-watts. I know it doesn't help the OPs issue, but it makes it easier for me to sort things out.
 
Man, I really wanted to save some money by holding out for the MXR, but I finally found the dimensions and there's no way it'll fit. Seems like the Voodoo Labs is my best bet.


I don't know. It's dead quiet into my REDDI yet makes noise in my amps. Craziest darn thing I ever saw.

Where did you find the dimensions? I have been searching all over Google. Let me know how the BBE is. I have a PowerPedal 2 but it has eaten through so many charging cables. I'm not sure if the Florida humidity got to it but Voodoo Labs has no idea why it's happening.
 
Where did you find the dimensions? I have been searching all over Google. Let me know how the BBE is. I have a PowerPedal 2 but it has eaten through so many charging cables. I'm not sure if the Florida humidity got to it but Voodoo Labs has no idea why it's happening.

I e-mailed MXR and they gave me the dimensions. I don't remember where I originally posted them but someone found them and quoted them in this post:
MXR Iso-Brick | TalkBass.com
 
It don't look very big
:)


téléchargement (1).jpg
 
A Cioks Adam will fit under a PT Jr.
Except I'd probably opt for a DC5 rather than an Adam at this point. Some have had issues (hum/whine) with the Adam and some pedals/configurations. No such reports about the DC5.
Basically the DC5 is an Adam with one more isolated channel (5 vs. 4) and more current available (900mA vs. 700mA). The DC5 has a toroidal transformer whereas the Adam does not, which may be why people aren't experiencing noise issues with it (conjecture on my part).
 
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You can get a Decibel11 at Prymaxe for $120-ish (17% off sale)
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I can't see that MXR IsoBrick fitting under a Pedaltrain board without blocking a whole row of outputs but I don't know as I've never seen on in person. Just an observation based on my experience with the Decibel 11 which has one row of outputs and just barely clears (but is a non-issue, almost like the two were designed together).
 
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HI Jimmy, i am currently is using 2 cioks dc10 underneath my PT2 board just because i feel that its better to have as clean signal as possible to avoid noise by having good patch cables (I use EBS Flat), and decent quality guitar cables (planet wave american stage), and isolated power supply. If you really want to get the MXR ISO Brick but scared that it wont feat underneath the pedaltrain, I recommend changing the rubber feet of your pedaltrain.

i used CIOKS Rubber Feet kit, as the distributor of CIOKS on my region helped me mount both PS on my pedalboard so i figured why not: Invalid Link Removed
but it might be abit pricy, you should be able to find other substitutes at your nearest home depot store.


this is not my board picture but the idea is there, hope it helps:
f3a2e9ae58a81bad4fdf381f5865b8b2.jpg
 
I will probably pass on the Cioks PS due to price, but I'm darn sure getting one of those Pedaltrain foot replacement kits! I have a rivet gun and I know how to use it! And that will solve any problems I would have with the Iso Brick mounting it under the board. Been wanting to do that anyway. Thanks for that tip, Will!