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Old Peavey Truss Rod Tool?

I'm doing a setup on an old 1983 Peavey Fury. Normally an allen wrench is called for to adjust the truss rod. However on this guitar, the end of the rod looks like it should be adjusted with a socket wrench. However, a socket wrench is obviously to big to fit. Is there a special tool made for this? If so, where do I go to get one? Thanks.
Jack
 
I'm doing a setup on an old 1983 Peavey Fury. Normally an allen wrench is called for to adjust the truss rod. However on this guitar, the end of the rod looks like it should be adjusted with a socket wrench. However, a socket wrench is obviously to big to fit. Is there a special tool made for this? If so, where do I go to get one? Thanks.
Jack

I use a 5/16" socket that I've ground down so it has very thin walls. Some folks say the Gibson type socket from Stew Mac works.
 
The original was a bit of bent and formed tubing. Not the most robust thing.

It was designed that way on purpose. The idea was that you adjusted the rod correctly by pre-stressing the neck, then only tighten the nut (as opposed to relying on the nut to move the neck). By making the special tool out of stamped aluminum, you HAD to pre-stress the neck because otherwise you'd round out the wrench.

John
 
The original Peavey tool was intentionally designed of light stamped steel so that it would deform rather than strip truss nuts or snap trussrods. You can support the center of the neck and slightly push down on the headstock to pre-stress the necks, and tighten the nut while holding the headstock. You do need to be careful in the process.

The real reason to use the peavey tool is that the angle of the trussrod, the width of the channel, and the depth into the neck of the truss rod often makes other tools useless. This is particularly true of early eighties models. The squared off ends of Gibson tools will often not clear the end of the channel route.

Also, if a Peavey tool gets rounded it can be squared up using a small vice. Remember, it is designed to fail before damaging the nut, so while it will fatigue, it is a protective design, not a design flaw.
 
re Peavey tool, I've still got one, it works great, and I wish I could find a couple more! It may look cheesey, but mine has lasted forever and the uber-thin socket design makes a couple of hard-to-adjust instruments much easier.

In addition, I discovered it's great for making Floyd-style outer-space noises on guitar (via scrapes, slides, bounces, etc). Something about the material, weight, shape etc - it's my favorite tool for that. Turn up the gain, crank the echo, and set the controls for the heart of the sun.

/rick
 
every factory one I've used was steel tube flared at the end

I've never seen prestressing the neck in any of the online manuals at peavey.com

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Please clarify the prestressing.. I'd love to learn a better way than the facotory guidelines.

I always 'pre-stress' the neck when making a truss rod adjustment however small - it minimises the risk of damaging something. I basically sit with the bass between my legs and push/pull the neck a little in the direction I am intending to go, so that the truss rod is relieved of as much tension as possible and doesn't have to do all the work on its own. After adjusting the rod, release the tension on the neck and check. I am sure someone will jump in and say this is wrong for all sorts of reasons, but as a trained engineer it makes sense from a mechanical strain perspective.
 
My newly purchased Foundation truss nut is recessed too deeply to reach with the Peavey tool. It works fine with the Fury, but it won't reach the nut in the Foundation.

Managed to adjust with a socket, but I really need a thin wall socket to reach it.
 
Kawai..

This is the issue.. they get stuck.. eventually the "pocket" gets dinged and dorked.. then the headstock gets some marring from other tools (wrenches etc) playing with them.

About 10% of them have the fasteners cammed out from using the wrong size.

The alll parts tool is only like $6 and will work on your lespaul