I want to throw this out. Even if your amp is rated at 400w @ 4ohms and your cab is rated 400w rms and is 4 ohms (most of that is irrelevant just equal power out to input ratings) the same problem is still there. The issue is if you get a solid state amp and drive it so hard as to clip the power stage it could double or quadruple the power output (though usually in bursts unless using some serious fuzz that would compress and keep your signal more consistent) so in essence, you'd need a speaker that has 4 to 5 times the rated power to protect your speaker if you are trying to run it dimed out with a ridiculously hot input. The problem there is you will burn your amp up. If you go the other direction, you could blow a speaker if you aren't using your ears to determine whether or not your speaker is stressing too hard or blapping, causing awful noise and damage to you speaker (and possibly your hearing). An "equally" rated amp and cab are going to have a similar problem. You may think that all the knobs turned up mean that it's putting out the nice even constant power that it is rated at but you will just be, most likely, clipping the power section sending 3-4X the rated amount of power to your cab blowing your speaker to smithereens. Really, it's better to have an amp that is rated higher than your speaker because of this and the fact that you can get up to the speaker's power rating without clipping the amp and any speaker blapping or distorting will be very obvious well before you go into clipping. A tube amp differs in that a tube power section soft clips as you turn it up and instead of going into a hard clip at the top of its power rating, it just starts to distort and brings that tube dirt to the sound. So, "over power" your speakers unless you are using an all tube amp and use your ears to determine if you are stressing your speakers. Plus, get some super efficient speakers to boot. They will get louder with less wattage and you will be less likely to turn the amp up too loud for them. Boom!