• TalkBass has been independent since 1998. Add your voice.
    Create a free account to reply to discussions, view embedded media, and browse with fewer display ads.
    Join freeLog in
    Want zero display ads or expanded classifieds tools? Compare plans.

Double Bass Palatino Megathread part I

Status
Not open for further replies.
I just went up an measured the Palatino and the NS bridge. This is what I would do for a best fit. Take the adjusters out and remove 1/16 from the bottom of the bridge where the adjusters thread in. Then take 1/16 from the top of the feet and 7/32 from the bottom of the feet this will give plent of room to work with once you cut the top of the bridge down. You will have to cut the bottom post of the adjusters down where it fits into the feet since shorting the feet will leave it sticking through but its no big deal it in aluminum so just file off what you need. I'm out this morning but if you have any questions PM me with your phone and I will call you back ASAP. By the way leave the top of the bridge thick. I have found it gives you much better sound when it is thick. The first assumption I made when I made bridges was it should be like an acoustic and Palatino did a poor job of it. Not so and as I have looked around at all the electric upright are thick on top. I would start at a 1/4 thick at the top.
 
Here's the VE500 in its latest incarnation. I took this to a gig last Saturday night and all went well with the exception of the G string having very high and loud response compared to the other strings. It would almost feedback if I didn't damp it. I had my rev solo pickup on the treble side of the bridge upside down and it worked okay except for that G string response. Anyway we got raves at this gig and I got a lot of comments about the bass.

So I came back to the workshop and experimented with a different placement for the pickup. I filed out the bass wing and slid the rev solo in upside down and the response was much more even. The finger noise is much less also. Getting the fit was tricky but it sounds good directly into my GK combo with no preamp at this time. Here's how it all looks now.
 
Hi again all. Gla d 2 see the thread going strong. my Palatino has been working twice /week since I got it! I' still not real pleased w/ the pre amp tho.. Anyone suggest a way I can get more punch & articulation. If U see my older posts- Ive got rubber under p.up, D'addario hybrids strings.... I have a bass pod I could use as a pre...... Should I try taking out the orig. pre? How do I do this.....anyone??? I'm NO tech, but have done some p/up swaps,pot change,s jack repairs, lead soldering etc...
Thanx,
Rod.
 
I have been experimenting with a new bridge design made of plexiglass (what I had around the house; and I totally dig that translucent look). I'll try to post some pictures of it later . . . maybe a sound sample as well. From what I can tell so far, it sounds alright, not too much different from the stock bridge except for looks and stability.
 
Hello all!

I am a studiomusician since 25+ years from out of Austria. And I actually play everything that has strings attached - from 4-,5- 7-string EB (fretted and fretless) to 10-stringed Chapman Stick. After reading through this thread I hardly could wait to get my hands on the V500 I ordered the other week. (Actualy mine was sold under the name "Easton&Frankl" and it is all black).

I must say that I have found this thread (and the "tuning-thread") very helpful and revealing. And I'd like to thank all of you for sharing your experiences. I'll definitely go for the "rubber-thing" and for getting myself a new bridge. And I've already ordered a set of new strings.

I have one question though: I've seen that the stock pickup is already covered in some rubber. Is it the same with your Palatinos? Did you put some additional rubber under the PA and the bridge?

Thank's for your help!

-Fred
 
When I took my VE 500 apart to check for function I realized the connection for the pickup and/or the pickup was shot so I ended using the Rev Solo with great results. In fact I'm going from the Rev solo straight out to my amp. All the internal wiring and preamp etc is off or out of the bass now. It would have been interesting if the pickup worked well enough to do an A vs B comparison. I've tried similar pickups to the stock one on a couple of basses I played awhile back. I was not real impressed with any of these. Maybe the dead pickup was a blessing.
 
Someone said that a DW stand should fit w/o retrofitting. Which stand works the best and where is the best place to purchase it. Thanks. I currently use mine with the bridge rubber (made from a volley ball bladder),stock electronics , and an Art tube pre-amp. Not a bad sound, but it could still be better.

The journey continues...
 
Here are a few pictures of my bridge:

[Invalid or Expired Link Removed]
[Invalid or Expired Link Removed]
[Invalid or Expired Link Removed]
[Invalid or Expired Link Removed]

For those curious, it is made out of the remnants of a broken basketball backboard and the big white line across the middle of the bridge is just where the two pieces of plexiglass meet (I epoxied two pieces together to make the bridge thick enough). Despite the overall scratched look, the bridge feels quite smooth to the touch.
 
KENDOG4 - U need to get light strings apparently-the local Aus. authority on DBL basses recommended this to me- I ended up getting a set of D'addario Hybrid lights & they've worked a treat!............Re- stand- I've heard tho not done this ...YET....that a standard cymbal boom stand works fine & fits into the screw hole where the lower bout/arm/pipe thing fits. See on this thread about page 11 or so....
NOLIMIZ............yes the p.up IS coatedm in a thin sheath, but it still sounds MUCH better with some rubber-I used a couple of thickness' of pushbike inner tube rubber- from memory-one thickness under E/A side & 2 under G/D side of bridge.

YVARG- great shots & GREAT work on the bridge- I think I'll do the same soon. THANKS-are U still using the stock pre?

STILL wanna hear how I should take the pre-amp out- just some not too basic instructions for a technical thicko like me!
 
Yvarg,

I love the pictures of the bass and I'm very interested in knowing more about your experience with Plexiglass. I've been disappointed with the stability of the stock bridge. I got longer screws to try to help with it (and so far, it improved it), but I've had the bridge fall apart on me twice, and that scared me (regarding gigs).

If the transmission of sound through plexiglass is actually good, I'd be HIGHLY interested in your posting dimensions and instructions on how to make one. That's something I'd love to try doing. I loved the very minimalist design of the whole thing...no curves, no holes, just a pure bridge with slots for the strings...PERFECt. Sounds very easy to do. Even a PDF document with a life-size tracing image would be helpful, as I could print it out on paper, and trace the exact design onto plexiglass and cut it. Maybe even dimensions for different actions (jazz, rock, salsa, etc.) That would be wonderful...to have a PDF document with tracing images for different action settings...it would be incredibly helpful for many on this board.
 
<quote>NOLIMIZ............yes the p.up IS coatedm in a thin sheath, but it still sounds MUCH better with some rubber-I used a couple of thickness' of pushbike inner tube rubber- from memory-one thickness under E/A side & 2 under G/D side of bridge. </quote> Thanks rodl! I've now placed rubber (from a rubber glove) under the PU and under both feets of the bridge. It realy improved the sound! I've also replaced the screws of the bridge with two longer ones. I've ordered a set of D'Arddario Lights. Allthough the sound improved a lot I still have to take her to my luthier! The fingerbord is totaly uneven and allmost unplayable! And I'll ask him to make me a new bridge too. The wood doesn't look and feel that bad, but it's certainly not the best one tho... And I guess the fact that the diameter of the drillings that hold the upper end of the screws is too large will effect the sound dramatically. I suppose Yvargs "plexi-solution" transfers the sound much better to the PU.

However, the sound and loundness is evenly spread across the strings. No string is louder than any other one. And after putting the rubber in place the harsh sound and the background noise of the pre-amp dissapeared as well.

I hope that better strings will also be a benefit. And when the fingerbord has been worked over and the new bridge has been installed, I guess she'll be in pretty good shape.

Thanks very much again guys for all your help!!!!
 
Yvarg,

I love the pictures of the bass and I'm very interested in knowing more about your experience with Plexiglass. I've been disappointed with the stability of the stock bridge. I got longer screws to try to help with it (and so far, it improved it), but I've had the bridge fall apart on me twice, and that scared me (regarding gigs).

If the transmission of sound through plexiglass is actually good, I'd be HIGHLY interested in your posting dimensions and instructions on how to make one. That's something I'd love to try doing. I loved the very minimalist design of the whole thing...no curves, no holes, just a pure bridge with slots for the strings...PERFECt. Sounds very easy to do. Even a PDF document with a life-size tracing image would be helpful, as I could print it out on paper, and trace the exact design onto plexiglass and cut it. Maybe even dimensions for different actions (jazz, rock, salsa, etc.) That would be wonderful...to have a PDF document with tracing images for different action settings...it would be incredibly helpful for many on this board.

Actually, I have had no experience working with plexiglass until the bridge (I've gone through two bridges before getting it right). I broke a string due to the wonderful stability of the stock bridge, but this one is much more stable. I'll see about a PDF file and instructions, maybe during spring break (I have to write a research paper this week; stupid high school :hmm: ). It was a pretty simple project, except for getting out all the scratches to make it more clear.
 
Yvarg,

That's fine. I have a woodworking friend who is going to help me build the bridge and he loved your plexiglass design. As long as I have the dimensions and diagram, we can try cutting it out in Maple, Ebony, or Plexiglass, and that way, I can test the different woods and see which one I like (in terms of sound).
 
I made a quick PNG outline of my bridge in photoshop
[Invalid or Expired Link Removed]

The basics of how I made mine was tracing the full outline and the bottom half of the outline (ending where the line in the middle of the bridge is) onto the piece of plexiglass so that there would be two pieces when I had cut them both out. I then used clear weld epoxy to glue the two pieces together on top of each other so that the bottom half of my bridge would be twice as thick as the top half (the sheet I had was only about 1/2" thick, and I need at least another 1/4" of thickness). From there, it was all sanding it down. I hope that makes sense, if not I'll answer any questions best I can.
 
Yvarg,

That diagram is much appreciated...I can't thank you enough...there's gigs coming up where I wanted to roadtest the bass, and i think that with some bridge cutouts following your design, I will be able to to get up to speed in time. :hyper:

But, one question...why split the bridge into two pieces (bottom, top?) Wouldn't it be better to just cut out an entire, solid piece, from a point of view of optimal sound transmission, and if need be, cut out another outline to double the thickness to the specs of the pickup slot on the Palatino?

In any case, with the images provided, the design, and measurements, I'm sure my woodworking friend will have no problem cutting out a few bridges for me.

How is the plexiglass sound compared to the stock bridge?

Good luck on those tests!
 
Status
Not open for further replies.