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Pbass wiring

#24
kenjikun said:
In theory the same but there is a little different in such a way that the capacitor is not connected to any earth.
Click to expand...

The cap is grounded through the tone pot. When the pot is on zero, the cap is grounded. Same with the cap being grounded and the pot being before it.

It functions exactly the same. This was the variation that I though the Stew-mac wiring was doing.
 
#26
all the same? I guess I need to read a good primer on wiring. I figured what could be hard about 1 pup 1 tone 1 vol and 1 cap.

That last diagram assumes there is a copper plate under the pickup? this knock off did not have one of those plates. Everything looks grounded to me without that?
 
#27
perbe said:
all the same? I guess I need to read a good primer on wiring. I figured what could be hard about 1 pup 1 tone 1 vol and 1 cap.

That last diagram assumes there is a copper plate under the pickup? this knock off did not have one of those plates. Everything looks grounded to me without that?
Click to expand...

Yes, all four diagrams are exactly the same electrically and functionally.

If you wanted to see something different, you would put the tone control after the volume, or use the wiper terminal of the volume pot as the input. Neither are preferable options, except in special cases, such as having a second pickup wired straight to the jack.

The problem is that some of you are not understanding how the circuit works. For example, it does not matter where the capacitor is grounded when all ground points are on the same potential. The same goes for pickup and bridge grounds. It also would not matter if the cap went to the signal and the pot were grounded instead of the other way around, because it makes no difference which order the components are wired, given that they are in series. Furthermore, it would not matter if you reversed the wiper and third terminal of the tone pot, because a resistor has no polarity.
 
#29
Collider said:
Anyway, for perbe that's at least two votes for the SD method.
Click to expand...

You're overthinking this. One way is not necessarily better than the other. Do it whichever way is most convenient. If you have a large axial lead capacitor, such as a PiO, it may be easier to ground to the third terminal of the volume pot. Conversely, if you have a radial lead capacitor, such as a film or ceramic (Especially one with short leads), it may easier to ground to the back of the tone pot.

If you have trouble soldering to the back of pots, you may find it preferable to ground the cap to the third terminal of the volume pot.
 
#30
Yes, I am going to use that with the addition of a wire between the ground points on each pot. looks the cleanest to me.

Thanks for all your help, obviously some wiring 101 would help. It has been about 40 year since I played with my Radio Shack 100 in 1 project kit:cool:
 
#31
SGD Lutherie said:
The cap is grounded through the tone pot. When the pot is on zero, the cap is grounded. Same with the cap being grounded and the pot being before it.

It functions exactly the same. This was the variation that I though the Stew-mac wiring was doing.
Click to expand...

Thanks for clearing that up:p I'm not so knowledgable when it comes to electronics (I'm a doctor at daytime, bass player at night).
One question, so what was the original wiring method Leo Fender used on his early Precisions?
 
#34
Little help slightly off topic please.... I am assembling a p-bass ground up. I sheilded the pickup and control cavities and wired up the pots and jack in the guard and realized that there is no hole from the control cavity to the bridge. Is it possible to keep the "bridge ground" inside the cavity going to a lug screwed through the shielding? Or do I have to drill that scary long diagonal hole through the body? Thanks!
 
#35
So bumping a old thread up since I'm having a issue. I tried 3 linear taper pots with a .05 mfd cap and all didn't start to roll tone till the last 20% of the pot. I switched to audio taper and it works slightly better but still not great. Also to note I'm using 500k pots to keep my bass a bit brighter then the norm. Mine is wired like the bass line diagram. I want a better roll off like my 74 p has versus the bass I'm working on. Could it just be the cap value needs to be smaller (ie .046 or .022) or type of cap? Or could it be in part from the larger value pots?
 
#36
ampegfuzz said:
So bumping a old thread up since I'm having a issue. I tried 3 linear taper pots with a .05 mfd cap and all didn't start to roll tone till the last 20% of the pot. I switched to audio taper and it works slightly better but still not great. Also to note I'm using 500k pots to keep my bass a bit brighter then the norm. Mine is wired like the bass line diagram. I want a better roll off like my 74 p has versus the bass I'm working on. Could it just be the cap value needs to be smaller (ie .046 or .022) or type of cap? Or could it be in part from the larger value pots?
Click to expand...

You need a 250k audio taper tone control, with either a push/pull bypass, or a no-load click at the end.
 

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