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Peavey IPR 1600 - INTERNAL PHOTOS

Not for PA, where it's the standard. As for electric bass, bi-amping is of little value, and the same applies to bridging.

I think bridging is actually far more useful for a bass rig than it would be for a PA setup.

Most bass setups are mono. If you need, say, 800 watts to drive your fancy pants fearful rig or whatever, it is cheaper to buy a smaller amp that does 800 watts bridged(and around 300 watts a side) than it would be to buy a larger amp that does 800 watts a side and only use half of it.
 
im with this guy

I'm with these guys too. I just tweak everything in my Yamaha pb-1, send the 2 channels to my bbe sm and kosmos and then to my amp. This would work perfect and be only 7 lbs!

And I think the longer case helps to keep things cool, especially by ensuring that the air intake at the back takes in cool air and not some that was pre-warmed by other equipment sticking out on top or bottom of a short peavey...
 
I think bridging is actually far more useful for a bass rig than it would be for a PA setup.

Most bass setups are mono. If you need, say, 800 watts to drive your fancy pants fearful rig or whatever, it is cheaper to buy a smaller amp that does 800 watts bridged(and around 300 watts a side) than it would be to buy a larger amp that does 800 watts a side and only use half of it.
One must understand what bridging does to know if it's of any value to them. What it does not do is increase your available current. It doubles your available voltage swing. If the available voltage swing of one channel is adequate to drive your cab to full output then you get no benefit from doubling it. In the vast majority of cases bridging is only useful for driving 8 ohm or higher loads. And if the entire voltage/current/power/impedance thing sets your head to spinning you definitely do not want to bridge. The downside of bridging is that the doubled voltage swing quadruples the possibility of you toasting your speakers.
 
One must understand what bridging does to know if it's of any value to them. What it does not do is increase your available current. It doubles your available voltage swing. If the available voltage swing of one channel is adequate to drive your cab to full output then you get no benefit from doubling it. In the vast majority of cases bridging is only useful for driving 8 ohm or higher loads. And if the entire voltage/current/power/impedance thing sets your head to spinning you definitely do not want to bridge. The downside of bridging is that the doubled voltage swing quadruples the possibility of you toasting your speakers.

WHAT? ALL CAN HEAR IS "BRIDGINGOMGMOREWATTS!".

:D
 
Sorry, have had a run of the flu through my family over here the past week. I haven't powered on the amp again since initial testing as noted in the first post. Hopefully next week I'll have the chance to use it some more. Keep in mind I'm not an equipment pro and have no type of test gear other than my ears. And I don't have a pair of matched cabs to be able to easily A-B this against my QSC RMX, and I love to A-B things like that for testing purposes. So unless there's something grossly wrong with the unit's output I won't be able to tell you if there's a slight mid-dip or hump or anything like that compared to the QSC amp.
 
The IPR1600 can be bridged into 8 ohms, but it's kinda tricky.

You have to parallel the inputs (no signal inversion or anything, just a straight parallel. Then, you take (+) from channel 1 and (-) from channel 2. Match the gain control on both channels and you're there.
 
WHAT? ALL CAN HEAR IS "BRIDGINGOMGMOREWATTS!".

:D
And that's why amp manufacturers offer bridging despite it's being of no value to the vast majority of users. Watts sell. Look how many posters in this thread balked at the idea that this amp doesn't offer bridging. I doubt one of them has the slightest clue how many volts it takes to drive their cabs to full output. :confused:
 
The IPR1600 can be bridged into 8 ohms, but it's kinda tricky.

You have to parallel the inputs (no signal inversion or anything, just a straight parallel. Then, you take (+) from channel 1 and (-) from channel 2. Match the gain control on both channels and you're there.

yeah i think i wont try that and just grab an amp that i can bridge safely for sub duty
 
bbybld , will the rest of the line be the same ? im interested in the 6000 priimarily for driving my lomax 18's . they are 8ohm , so i cant run the amp bridged at 8 with these , but i could buy two of em ..... or two of the smaller powered ones . what you described as the way to bridge it is exactly what everyother amp man does , its just they have a dedicated out for it to happen . nothing a special cable cant fix . one 2 lead cable with a speakon on each lead at one end and one speakon on the other . not hard to me . can you give us a breakdown on the specs of this line of amps ? i looked at the web , but the numbers are all mixed up .... anyway , i do the system installs for garris in sylacauga and i run all peavey pa . have for years ...... my new pa will consist of 2 lomax 18s , two older hdh 115's , the new powered xr1212 , and whatever peavey amps i decide to run on the monitors and subs ... thanks bbybld for any more info you could share .
 
BbbyBld - I always love to see manufacturer reps in these forums. It's great to see physical involvement. Great product, I've had no significant complaints yet though the fan could be every so much quieter, though only because it's in my 12x12 office and currently set at the same height as my ears while sitting in my computer chair. I've always enjoyed my Peavey gear. :) Hopefully this product has the same longevity as all of the rest of the stuff I've owned from your company.
 
bbybld , will the rest of the line be the same ? im interested in the 6000 priimarily for driving my lomax 18's . they are 8ohm , so i cant run the amp bridged at 8 with these , but i could buy two of em ..... or two of the smaller powered ones . what you described as the way to bridge it is exactly what everyother amp man does , its just they have a dedicated out for it to happen . nothing a special cable cant fix . one 2 lead cable with a speakon on each lead at one end and one speakon on the other . not hard to me . can you give us a breakdown on the specs of this line of amps ? i looked at the web , but the numbers are all mixed up .... anyway , i do the system installs for garris in sylacauga and i run all peavey pa . have for years ...... my new pa will consist of 2 lomax 18s , two older hdh 115's , the new powered xr1212 , and whatever peavey amps i decide to run on the monitors and subs ... thanks bbybld for any more info you could share .

The 3000 is bridgeable like the 1600, but the 6000 is not.

The 1600 will do:

800 watts cont. x 2 at 2 ohms

535 watts cont. x 2 at 4 ohms

I'm not sure about the stereo 8 ohm spec.

1600 x 1 into 4 ohms

1000 x 1 into 8 ohms

I'm not working on this project. I get my info from the head of the power amp department. If there are specific spec. questions I can ask, but I'm not sure if we are publishing detailed specs on the other models yet.