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Peavey IPR 1600 - INTERNAL PHOTOS

The IPR1600 can be bridged into 8 ohms, but it's kinda tricky.

You have to parallel the inputs (no signal inversion or anything, just a straight parallel. Then, you take (+) from channel 1 and (-) from channel 2. Match the gain control on both channels and you're there.

Ok, this is kind of a simple question, but what would that exactly look like in practice? Would a person need to put together a custom speakon cable to make that work properly?
 
Count me into that category. Amps are marked in watts, as are cabs. How the hell am I supposed to know anything about volts? I'm just a Joe Schmo for crying out loud! :) Seriously.
You should have paid attention in 10th Grade physics class. :D
Few 4 ohm cabs can make use of more than 28 volts. Most 8 ohm cabs can't make use of more than 40 volts. And it doesn't matter how many cabs you have, one or a hundred, the voltage seen by one is seen by all. So if you bridge an amp to get more voltage than your cabs can use they won't go one dB louder. But they might just blow.
If you want to go louder you need to use a second cab, allowing the amp to deliver more current. That's easy, you just plug one cab into Channel 1 and one into Channel 2.
Some manufacturers do publish the voltage swing capability of their amps. All should.
 
You should have paid attention in 10th Grade physics class. :D
Few 4 ohm cabs can make use of more than 28 volts. Most 8 ohm cabs can't make use of more than 40 volts. And it doesn't matter how many cabs you have, one or a hundred, the voltage seen by one is seen by all. So if you bridge an amp to get more voltage than your cabs can use they won't go one dB louder. But they might just blow.
If you want to go louder you need to use a second cab, allowing the amp to deliver more current. That's easy, you just plug one cab into Channel 1 and one into Channel 2.
Some manufacturers do publish the voltage swing capability of their amps. All should.

I have never heard of any of this. Could you point me in the direction of some info on this topic?
 
I have never heard of any of this. Could you point me in the direction of some info on this topic?
Google 'Ohms Law'.
The interactions between amps and speakers involve voltage, current and power. Using only power (watts) as a measuring tool leaves two of the three elements out of the equation. Most speakers are damaged when fed with too much voltage, most amps are damaged when called on to deliver too much current, so knowing how it all works is a necessity if you want to get the most out of what you've got without breaking anything.
 
Google 'Ohms Law'.
The interactions between amps and speakers involve voltage, current and power. Using only power (watts) as a measuring tool leaves two of the three elements out of the equation. Most speakers are damaged when fed with too much voltage, most amps are damaged when called on to deliver too much current, so knowing how it all works is a necessity if you want to get the most out of what you've got without breaking anything.

Don't most amps say something like "500W at 4ohms"? Given W = I2​R, that means I = 11.2 amps. And since V = I * R, then V = 44.8 volts. So aren't they basically specifying the current and voltage rating of the amp?

Also, a speaker would be rated at "500W and 4ohms", so isn't that similarly rating the voltage and current also?

MX

Edit: I know that the speaker ohms are nominal, so there's probably some variation with frequency.
 
You should have paid attention in 10th Grade physics class. :D
Few 4 ohm cabs can make use of more than 28 volts. Most 8 ohm cabs can't make use of more than 40 volts. And it doesn't matter how many cabs you have, one or a hundred, the voltage seen by one is seen by all. So if you bridge an amp to get more voltage than your cabs can use they won't go one dB louder. But they might just blow.
If you want to go louder you need to use a second cab, allowing the amp to deliver more current. That's easy, you just plug one cab into Channel 1 and one into Channel 2.
Some manufacturers do publish the voltage swing capability of their amps. All should.

I'm a little confused with BFM or anyone using ohms law when "R" is not a constant? Is this "voltage limit" of 4 ohm and 8 ohm speakers based on the DCR of the speakers? But then I am not feeding DC to my speakers (my amp is working fine sending AC to my speakers). Feeding AC to speakers the IMPEDANCE varies wildly. Would not the voltage "limit" of a speaker also change with the variance of the impedance (not DC resistance).
 
I meant how to determine the voltage a speaker can make use of. I've never heard of voltage ratings for cabs.
Use Ohms Law to calculate from the power input the voltage input to reach xmax or Pe, whichever is lower, within the passband. If you have a hard limiter, standard gear in good PA rigs, you measure the voltage output of the amp to set the limiter. You can't set the limiter for a specified power output because you can't measure power output.
Is this "voltage limit" of 4 ohm and 8 ohm speakers based on the DCR of the speakers?
You don't use DCR, you use nominal impedance. It's not a perfect calc, but it is an adequate one, since the voltage output of an amp is constant irrespective of the impedance load.
 
Just so I am clear on what you are saying (as your posts are highly respected here).
The voltage of an audio amps output is constant.
The impedance (nominal) of speaker cab can determine the maximum voltage that speaker can handle (under ohms law) for a moving coil of wire in a magnetic field.
Only the current varies from the audio amps output due to the change in AC resistance (of the coil of wire in that magnetic field), the voltage is fixed?
Does that sum it up?
 
Just so I am clear on what you are saying (as your posts are highly respected here).
The voltage of an audio amps output is constant.
The impedance (nominal) of speaker cab can determine the maximum voltage that speaker can handle (under ohms law) for a moving coil of wire in a magnetic field.
Only the current varies from the audio amps output due to the change in AC resistance (of the coil of wire in that magnetic field), the voltage is fixed?
Does that sum it up?
Pretty much. The impedance doesn't have any direct bearing on the voltage limit that a driver can handle, but excursion is directly proportional to voltage. In most cases excursion is the driver's Achilles Heel, as once you exceed it most of any additional power input applied ends up as heat in the motor, which then can cause thermal failure. The 'autopsy' will reveal the driver died from overheating, but the underlying cause will as often as not be from pushing too many volts, sending the driver past xmax.
 
Ok, this is kind of a simple question, but what would that exactly look like in practice? Would a person need to put together a custom speakon cable to make that work properly?

I tried this yesterday. I used a Max preamp to drive the power amp. The way I did it may not be the best way, but I was in a hurry.

I plugged into the channel 1 input, then used a jumper from the channel 1 through jack to the channel 2 input.

Next, I used 2-1/4" plugs for the output speaker cable (12 gauge wire). I soldered the positive side to the channel 1 positive output, and soldered the negative side to the channel 2 negative output.

I ran both gain controls at unity (all the way up) to make balancing the two sides easy.

I used this setup to drive an 8 ohm 410 cab. It seemed to work well. This configuration was giving me 1000 watts into 8 ohms, so I had pretty crazy headroom.

Using Speakons would be better, but I didn't have any spares on hand.

I have a 4 ohm, 1200 watt 412 cab. The next thing I will try is bridging into that. :bassist:
 
Awesome, thanks for the reply. I would imagine Speakon would be better (or at least easier) for a soldering-challenged person like me since they are usually screw down connections.

Also, you seem to stress having the two channels at equal gain. What happens if a knob gets bumped and they are unequal?

When you bridge an amp, you are taking the difference between two opposite polarity channels rather than a solid ground reference for negative and an alternating signal for positive. For this to work properly the outputs need to be as equal as possible and out of phase. If they become unbalanced, the output signal can become asymmetrical and clip sooner on one side. If a knob gets bumped it's not the end of the world. It would probably sound weird.
 
I plugged into the channel 1 input, then used a jumper from the channel 1 through jack to the channel 2 input.

Next, I used 2-1/4" plugs for the output speaker cable (12 gauge wire). I soldered the positive side to the channel 1 positive output, and soldered the negative side to the channel 2 negative output.

How did you provide one of the channels with an out of phase signal ?
 
I plugged into the channel 1 input, then used a jumper from the channel 1 through jack to the channel 2 input.

Next, I used 2-1/4" plugs for the output speaker cable (12 gauge wire). I soldered the positive side to the channel 1 positive output, and soldered the negative side to the channel 2 negative output.

Because of the design of the amp, this works out if you connect everything as I described a few posts up.


Sorry, I overlooked that... should have told me that you are running one entire channel out of phase :o

I don't want to describe the reasoning behind this because I don't know if I'm giving away something proprietary

you can trust us, we are all friends here on Talkbass :D :D :D :hiding:
 
One must understand what bridging does to know if it's of any value to them. What it does not do is increase your available current. It doubles your available voltage swing. If the available voltage swing of one channel is adequate to drive your cab to full output then you get no benefit from doubling it. In the vast majority of cases bridging is only useful for driving 8 ohm or higher loads. And if the entire voltage/current/power/impedance thing sets your head to spinning you definitely do not want to bridge. The downside of bridging is that the doubled voltage swing quadruples the possibility of you toasting your speakers.

Calling attention to the voltage swing capabilities of an amp really reminded me of a time long ago and a neat trick we used with Phase Linear power amplifiers. They used transistors which *loved* to run at higher voltages (and the power supply of the amp allowed that). We used to run pairs of JBL L100 speakers in series on each side to present a 16 ohm load to the amp, and it would KILL. The readings on the big meters on the front of the amp wouldn't be useful any more (you could slam the meters against the right side way before you'd hear any clipping)... which would freak out the club owner (I was a club DJ at the time). Something about the transistors available in those days (we're talking early to mid 70's) being more designed for high voltage applications, like TVs or something I guess.
 

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