Set the high mids to narrow, and boost it all the way up. Then sweep the frequency and see where it gets worse. Once you find it, cut at the frequency instead.
Enjoy the benefits of a premium membership!
Upgrade Account
-
TalkBass has been independent since 1998. Add your voice.
Create a free account to reply to discussions, view embedded media, and browse with fewer display ads.
Join free Log in
Want zero display ads or expanded classifieds tools? Compare plans.
Peavey MiniMega 1000
- Thread starter Stev187
- Start date
Set the high mids to narrow, and boost it all the way up. Then sweep the frequency and see where it gets worse. Once you find it, cut at the frequency instead.
I've had to dial the bass back like that (or at least to past 11:00) pretty much everywhere I've played, with every cab I've used (Aguilar GS210 and Bergantino NV610), and every bass (active J6 and passive P4).
svtb15
Inactive
- Mar 22, 2004
- 13,004
- 4,741
- Disclosures
- I play it all. Whatever works for the gig. Q+
I run all of my Active basses with Knobs set to Flat.. Zero for boost ony types..
I dont have an issue.. I run Genz Benz Uber 115s or a Formfactor 210.. Bass sounds full and not anemic l... The mM sounds more like a full range recording console strip than most other bass amp types
I dont have an issue.. I run Genz Benz Uber 115s or a Formfactor 210.. Bass sounds full and not anemic l... The mM sounds more like a full range recording console strip than most other bass amp types
@omie...Bass amps are never one size fits all, that's probably why there's so many different ones out there. You are using some very transparent gear with that cab and the Mini Mega. Whenever I have found myself in your position, I come to the conclusion that it's the tone of the bass I don't care for, and I'm fighting against it. Sometimes, it's not just the type or model of bass, it's a particular one that doesn't work for me. Good luck chasing your sound. I hope the amp works out for you.
Just got one these little monsters and it is without a doubt the best amp I've ever had or played through in 40 years of searching for an ultra fast, powerful and neutral amp. Bobbybld has done a great job with this design! 
Someone a while ago requested a shot of the insides - would it be okay to post the pics here that I have just taken? Don't want to infringe any copyrights etc...
Someone a while ago requested a shot of the insides - would it be okay to post the pics here that I have just taken? Don't want to infringe any copyrights etc...
svtb15
Inactive
- Mar 22, 2004
- 13,004
- 4,741
- Disclosures
- I play it all. Whatever works for the gig. Q+
OK.. Im off today I had time so i popped the hood.. only after Bbbybld said it was OK
I had a feeling there were some thingys and dohickeys inside.
svtb15
Inactive
- Mar 22, 2004
- 13,004
- 4,741
- Disclosures
- I play it all. Whatever works for the gig. Q+
I don't officially recommend that anyone try this because I don't recommend that people get electrocuted screwing around with electronics and at the very least void their warranty, but if you notice the black and red speaker wires...the black wire is connected to terminal P10 on the main power board. There is another terminal above it labeled P8. If you move the black terminal to P8, that takes the amp out of bridge mode and makes it so that only one of the two channels is loaded. That will allow the amp to run about 650W into a 2 ohm load.
Normally, when you bridge the two channels into a 4 ohm load, each channel is essentially running at 2 ohms, and you get 500W per channel. You get a little more power from a single channel when it's the only one loaded because the overall load on the power supply is less.
With more extensive modifications by someone who knows what they are doing, it's possible to isolate the two speaker jacks and connect each one to a separate channel, which would allow for 500W x 2 into 2 ohms, which means that the amp could potentially power 8, 8ohm speaker cabinets, for example.
Normally, when you bridge the two channels into a 4 ohm load, each channel is essentially running at 2 ohms, and you get 500W per channel. You get a little more power from a single channel when it's the only one loaded because the overall load on the power supply is less.
With more extensive modifications by someone who knows what they are doing, it's possible to isolate the two speaker jacks and connect each one to a separate channel, which would allow for 500W x 2 into 2 ohms, which means that the amp could potentially power 8, 8ohm speaker cabinets, for example.
This just gets better - thanks for all your hard work, BbbyBld!
One question though: do the models for the UK not have the option for different mains input voltages? Mine is a UK spec but does not have the selector on the back panel and associated wiring as per the recently-posted shots...
The reason why is because the UK model must have a power factor correction choke inductor installed inside that is not required everywhere. That device cannot handle the higher current that would result from running at lower line voltage, like in the USA. However, converting to 120V operation is an easy task for a tech should the need arise.
Thanks for the speedy reply and a great amp - always had a lot of time for Peavey bass amps ever since our guitarist dropped my F800B down a flight of concrete stairs and failed to break it.
This thing is so fast and has really made me up my game. Paired with a Barefaced BB2 it'll happily bounce guitarists across the room, if not down said concrete stairs
svtb15
Inactive
- Mar 22, 2004
- 13,004
- 4,741
- Disclosures
- I play it all. Whatever works for the gig. Q+
I have to say.. Even when this amp is set very clean on the input... And set close to flat.. Each note has heft and is harmonically Rich sounding..
Kirk, I have read several of your posts about class D amps over the last several months, and I was always thinking, if only he'd give one of our amps a chance! I'm happy that you did, and that it seems to be working out for you.
Agreed.
No change. On most gigs I usually start with everything at noon and adjust from there. So far the only adjustments have been to the master.
svtb15
Inactive
- Mar 22, 2004
- 13,004
- 4,741
- Disclosures
- I play it all. Whatever works for the gig. Q+
Honestly// no blowing smoke.. mM has made me a believer.. I have to eat my words..I may have to apologize to some people in that past and I'm 100% Ok with that.. I'll admit when i made a mistake..
I find it to be harmonically rich with extended lows that feel organic and not truncated.... The speaking voice is clear with dynamic headroom, and the note envelope hangs until you don't want it to.
No wacky artifacts...
Its like a preamp and poweramp component rig.. Im pretty blown away.
Bobby , it is great that you are a bass player and you really understand what we are talking about when we use terms like FEEl, and Warm etc... Im on a LOUD gig in about an hour with 2 Uber 115s,, Soundcheck made me think ,, This amp sorta has BLOOM to it.. Another one of those terms
I find it to be harmonically rich with extended lows that feel organic and not truncated.... The speaking voice is clear with dynamic headroom, and the note envelope hangs until you don't want it to.
No wacky artifacts...
Its like a preamp and poweramp component rig.. Im pretty blown away.
Bobby , it is great that you are a bass player and you really understand what we are talking about when we use terms like FEEl, and Warm etc... Im on a LOUD gig in about an hour with 2 Uber 115s,, Soundcheck made me think ,, This amp sorta has BLOOM to it.. Another one of those terms
