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Peavey T-40 Club Part 2

A 5 string TL-40 :eek: Since the t-40 was designed for a 4-string - how is the response of your B and G strings? It looks like it is wide enough to do the job.

Thanks for the comps, guys. This is one of my favorites. I was fortunate to find enough of the old P knobs (pre-interwebs) to really make it work. Poor thing only had the preamp and output jack on it when I got it. I also was able to work in a D-tuner on the E.

It has a Wilkinson bridge on it to be able to move the strings for the most balanced response and it works well. B string is a tiny taste weaker than my other TL-5s but is totally unnoticeable when in a live situation. The bridge is adjusted so the G string is more over the PU window. Shaller roller bridge would have worked but ended up with some bad string angles between the butt of the bridge and the rollers on the B and G and I liked the black/chrome look better.

xaxxat...What is the string spacing on that bass?
Spacing at the bridge is 16mm (5/8") which is as tight as the bridge will go. Overall spacing at the nut is 40mm (.394")

xaxxat...I wonder if I could pull that of with a Patriot...

I've seen threads about turning a 4 into a 5. If you can handle the tight spacing at the topnut the only real problem is finding a bridge with tight enough spacing to keep the string margin decent down the neck. Some have solved that by using individual bridge sections. Patriot neck at the topnut is about the same as a Dyna or Foundation and 5 string versions were made of those models. With the SF blade type PU in the Patriot, pole piece/string spacing wouldn't be an issue.

xaxxat...I really think you should continue on what you mocked up with a coil tap switch. It's be a modern T-45. If you want to mount the PU without a ring and have height screws coming through the back I can walk you through that. It'd look cool.

mech
 
Spacing at the bridge is 16mm (5/8") which is as tight as the bridge will go. Overall spacing at the nut is 40mm (.394")



I've seen threads about turning a 4 into a 5. If you can handle the tight spacing at the topnut the only real problem is finding a bridge with tight enough spacing to keep the string margin decent down the neck. Some have solved that by using individual bridge sections. Patriot neck at the topnut is about the same as a Dyna or Foundation and 5 string versions were made of those models. With the SF blade type PU in the Patriot, pole piece/string spacing wouldn't be an issue.

xaxxat...I really think you should continue on what you mocked up with a coil tap switch. It's be a modern T-45. If you want to mount the PU without a ring and have height screws coming through the back I can walk you through that. It'd look cool.

mech

That Fury II is disassembled and body is stripped of paint. I've got some extra VFL pups and was thinking about doing a 3 pup bass. A local pawn shop has a tobacco burst Fury II that I really want - just gotta get him to move on the price. If I get it, I may do an active 40. I convert my T-40 pups to 4 wires so I can do the single-series-parallel thing.

I just picked up a Patriot that I'm going to convert to a 5 string 40. The Patriot is 1 3/4" at the neck. I've got a 5 string Schaller roller bridge. I also have a no-name 5 string bridge that has 15mm spacing. One of those should do the trick. My Dyna 5 has a 1 3/4" nut and 16mm spacing, so I'll be in the ballpark. My only concern is matching the string spacing with the pup's blade width.
 
A few more T-40 inspired mockups:

A Bronco:

IMG_0127.jpg


A USA Fury:

IMG_0132.jpg


And an Aslin Dain MM copy:

IMG_0135.jpg
 
I like the Bronco and the MM copy, the Fury's looks are a little busy for my taste, but it will probably be the best sounding of the bunch with a ton of killer tones. Very cool ideas!

The P pup on the Fury won't be used. It's just there to help me figure out where to line up the pickguard - basically it's a Fury bottom and a T-40 top.
 
The P pup on the Fury won't be used. It's just there to help me figure out where to line up the pickguard - basically it's a Fury bottom and a T-40 top.

I see. Fury bottom and T-40 top sounds like a pretty direct solution to the questions of what would a T-40 sound like with a lighter body and how much of the tone is in the PUPs and how much in the northern ash.

Do you know what kind of wood is your Fury made with?
 
Regarding the pickups:

I'm no expert, but I wonder why other manufacturers have not copied or borrowed from the design of these pickups... or the bass in general. The only other bass that has a design even sort of like this is the Fender Jaguar Bass. I have one, and love it. It doesn't give the same tones as the -40, but it has the same range of flexibility.

The Jaguar lacks the humbuckers: it has two single coil jazz pups. However, I can switch the pup wiring from series to parallel. That is pretty cool.

The Jaguar also lacks volume pots for each pup. I can only switch the pups off individually... not turn the volume up or down. There is only one "master" volume pot for both pups. I plan on modding this. I'd like to replace the master volume knob with a stacked knob so that I can control both pups. That, I think, will bring it closer to the realm of the -40.

The Jag is also has a switchable pre-amp... which I never use.

G
 
Good question - cost is probably part of the reason and plenty of bass models that do one or two things extraordinarily well, sell in big numbers.

The EBMM Big Al has a similar range of tones and the ability to mix and match single coils and humbuckers. If I hit the lottery, I'd get one in a heartbeat.
 
Hey guys. Longtime guitar player (23 years) who decided it was high time I went and got me a bass. After a lot of research, I settled on - what else - a Peavey T-40. She was missing a phase switch, so she's currently in the shop getting a full makeover. I'll post pics on here when I get it back.

Came with the original case which was completely missing any padding. Just hard black plastic. Does anybody have any suggestions as to a replacement case that will hold this bad beast?
 
Any option is to pad the case yourself.

I bought a used one back when I first started....and the case did not have lining. The previous owner lined the case with what looked like self-adhesive foam strips.

Worked fine.

side note: got my stripped truss rod neck back from Chip after repair. Can't wait to install it!!
 
T-40 neck back on the body today after almost an entire month after I had purchased it.

Dang, what a great bass. The neck is now perfect, and the truss now turns effortlessly. :)

I got low action without much buzz tuned to C standard.

The tone is better than I had remembered....I can't believe a passive bass has that much low end!

IMG_20110518_214249-1.jpg
 
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Here's a VM TB with a twist...
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I love the sound of a Peavey T-40, so when a pickup for one became abailable on ebay, I jumped on it (I wasn't even sure what I was going to do with it; possibly add a 3rd p/u to my own T-40).

I've had this TB for a couple of years now. It was purchased (for $80!) with the idea of adding a Dimarzio Model one, But once I did some measuring, It was a no-brainer.

Here is what i have found about this combination:
1: The bass is very loud! Almost as if it has active electronics.
2: The sound is far less muddy than the stock p/u.
3: The bass has a Rickenbacker "twang" (top end) to it; I have heard this comment about T-40s in general, but after playing this bass, I really believe that it comes mostly from the pickup!
4: I also installed a push/pull pot in the volume control position; with the bass in the single coil mode, It has less output and is slighly thinner (as expected) than the full on humbucker (I prefer the humbucker sound).
5: I love this bass! Future mods will be a better set of tuners & a BA III bridge.

Moonshine
 
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