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Peavey T-40 Club Part 2

#282
#284
Hiya T 40 players! Can you tell me what strings you use and why? When I had my first T 40 I changed the strings once, then I put the stock strings back on. All I can remember is the put them on and take them immediately off pair was the coated rortosounds...didn't like them.

I just received the T 40, the exact twin of the one I owned in 1982! It has tapewound strings that are so short the D string slips on the post. And since I would have put new strings on it anyway I am interested in what brands, string gauges model # etc you use and why..

I have a notion to go with Chromes or even half rounds as I think I want to capture some of the zing (rick like tones) one can grab out of a T 40.

BTW, pics on the way so I can jump into the T 40 club and the US Peavey club.
 
#285
ProfGumby said:
Hiya T 40 players! Can you tell me what strings you use and why? When I had my first T 40 I changed the strings once, then I put the stock strings back on. All I can remember is the put them on and take them immediately off pair was the coated rortosounds...didn't like them.

I just received the T 40, the exact twin of the one I owned in 1982! It has tapewound strings that are so short the D string slips on the post. And since I would have put new strings on it anyway I am interested in what brands, string gauges model # etc you use and why..

I have a notion to go with Chromes or even half rounds as I think I want to capture some of the zing (rick like tones) one can grab out of a T 40.

BTW, pics on the way so I can jump into the T 40 club and the US Peavey club.
Click to expand...

Congrats, Gumby!! I did the exact same thing about two years ago (I sold my '79 T-40 for Ric seed money in '80...big mistake). It sounds like you like a sound more like flats, so my choice of R. Cocco nickel rounds might not be what works for you. I like R. Coccos for their complete spectrum of tone. I don't have to sacrifice. The highs shimmer without being harsh, and the lows are deep, yet clear. The mids are clear, but not overwhelming.

For flats, I stick with Chromes, but not because I've done much comparison, Like the R. Coccos, I've just found what I like and stick with them on my Lakland Duck.

Looking forward to the photos!!
 
#286
Engine207 said:
Congrats, Gumby!! I did the exact same thing about two years ago (I sold my '79 T-40 for Ric seed money in '80...big mistake). It sounds like you like a sound more like flats, so my choice of R. Cocco nickel rounds might not be what works for you. I like R. Coccos for their complete spectrum of tone. I don't have to sacrifice. The highs shimmer without being harsh, and the lows are deep, yet clear. The mids are clear, but not overwhelming.

For flats, I stick with Chromes, but not because I've done much comparison, Like the R. Coccos, I've just found what I like and stick with them on my Lakland Duck.

Looking forward to the photos!!
Click to expand...

I'll probably end up with chromes, or maybe half rounds...but I am still curious as to what others are doing...And allow me to ask a really stupid question, extra longs, right?

And here is a photo from the seller...I'll get more pics up tomorrow....
2mq5je1.jpg

T40 Club number please?
 
#293
GreggBummer said:
I'm a big Rotosound fan. I use them on my Fender Jaguar and my T-40. However, I understand why some folks are not a fan... they have a pretty distinctive sound.

I like aggressive sounding strings and pickups... I can always EQ the aggressiveness out if I need to. On the T-40, it is very easy to do.
Click to expand...

Don't get me wrong, I love the sound of rotosound strings. And I do believe they are quality strings as well. I don't like the feel of them or the way they seem to chew up frets..
 
#296
Here's my T-40. I was so excited to get this thing I paid $400 for it on ebay WITH the original hardshell case, which is a piece of, well, plastic I guess. Watched it's twin go for $280 a week later. What a dope. It's okay though. I know if it ever hits the fan I can turn this thing into cabin and live in it.
 

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#297
Here's my T-40's head and the quick fix I did on the case. I know I should not be proud of this lining, but I am. Cheap, soft, ugly and effective. Just like me. Any chance I can get a member number? The reason I'm here is because I long to belong.
 

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#298
Hi,

I'm getting an 80' T-40 in Red w/Maple fretboard. Body and neck are in very good shape for a 31-year-old instrument, it really looks killer. But... there's an electronics issue.

When the neck pickup is in humbucker mode (7 or below on the tone knob) the output is very low. The rear pickup doesn't have the issue. I don't have easy access to this bass yet, but I'm wondering if the experts can point me in the right direction for troubleshooting when I am around it?

I know the first step is to verify both of the pickup's coils are actually working. Then, I'll look for shorts.

After that, I'm a little lost and it's been hard to search for this specific issue, although I have seen a few posts in different places with this issue on either the neck or bridge pickup.

Thanks, and I'll post pictures as soon as I have it in my grimy paws.

Bob
 
#299
dangnewt said:
Interesting to hear that it is a topic of discussion at Peavey HQ.

I agree that the phase switch could probably go without too many tears shed but the coil-splitting is mandatory. If they could come close on the tone, nail the look, while shedding a few pounds, it would sell.

The two tough decisions would be what to do about the bridge - it is definitely part of the look, I'm not sure how much it contributes to the tone, and there has to be some weight and extra expense there because of the size of that beast.
The other is the neck - is the two-piece neck essential to the look, feel and tone? is the tilt-adjustment worth retaining?

I wouldn't mind if Peavey left a few things different, if only to help out the folks who own an original. (like me ;))
Click to expand...

Hi.
I pop back here now and again and spotted this.

I have seen this sort of thing go round before - A remake of the T-40.
I'm not sure that this would happen or be practical.
There are still LOADS of T-40's still out there and for the amount of quality components and work that are in them - $300 - $500 is CHEAP.
Part of the attraction, surely, is the heritage, Made in USA - something that is 30 years old.
Yes, there is the weight.
I have a T-40 for every month of the year + a couple and most are no more weighty than a lot of other basses.
Here is something I wrote in another forum in the UK.
Click the link and scroll down half way - I stripped one of mine and weighed it on very accurate scales.
Invalid Link Removed

I have a natural one that is the most heaviest but still a great bass to play, which I have gigged all night with.
Scroll to the bottom and you will see it with some of the others.
Flat Eric's Bass & Guitar Collection: July 2010

I have a later Blade RW neck that I am using as a project/testbed, so I will keep you posted.
I am going to chamber the body, put push/push coil taps on,
push/push phase and coil select and anything else that comes to mind.

I will be starting this in a few weeks, so sit tight and I'll let you know how I get on.

Cheers. :)
 

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