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PJ bass yes or no?

I am considering buying a washburn t14 PJ bass. Anyone have any advice on Pj bases .
A pj is great.
I have the Washburn t12. Got it cheap as a modding platform/backup bass.
It is almost the same bass but came only with the P pickup.
Quality of build is comparable to the Ibanez equivalent.
I have also tried several of the same-tier yamahas...build quality is a little bit nicer on the yamahas IME.
The washburn stock p-pickup was just OK, but nothing to write home about. (You will probably need to play with the pickup height to get the pj balanced.)
All in all it has served me well and after a lot of modifications it plays and sounds way better than it should.
Good luck!
 
Yamaha's BB basses are great takes on the PJ combination. With the pickup heights balanced properly, all three of the toggle switch positions are eminently useful. This one's my BB1025X from the last generation of instruments. The latest generation is also terrific. The BB434 seems to be a really well-built and great-sounding PJ (in VVT configuration rather than the toggle switch) for just $500 new.

YamahaBB1025x - 1.jpg
 
PJ bass with stack knob, 250k pot for P pup meanwhile 500k pot for J pup. .068uf cap on P stack pot and .033uf cap for the J stack pot.
Oh, humcancelling J pup for sure and prefer dimarzio high output bridge J pup like Ultra J or Model J.

Another option are Reverse P + MM configuration.

Hopehelp
 
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I would love to have one with a three-way selector switch, which would give me three super usable sounds that I know I dig (P, P/J, J bridge). I’m planning to use that configuration on my first parts build, which I will start as soon as I have things like free time and disposable income.
 
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Hi, Kitkit, welcome to TB. There are so many P/J variants out there it's hard to nail down one opinion of all of them. As a rule the idea of the P/J is to take the popular P bass and add the equally popular J bass bridge pickup. The problem is that they are two different designs. The P bass has a humbucker and the J is a single coil. They sometimes don't play well together. The stronger P pickup is closer to the neck where the signal is also stronger; the thinner, weaker J pickup is closer to the bridge where the signal is weaker. This means the J must be raised and the P lowered in to the body to even out the response. Not a big problem but either pickup soloed will reflect this. The Washburn is a budget Chinese made instrument with inexpensive electronics and hardware. That doesn't mean it's unplayable firewood, just not on par with a Tony Franklin. It is a unique shape and has separate controls for each pickup. Upgrading it isn't as issue as most parts are interchangeable and a universal fit. As with any instrument, the key is to play it and be comfortable. Be sure the instrument isn't damaged. (No amount of flame finish can make up for a broken truss rod.) If you can, have a knowledgeable person go with you to inspect the bass before buying it. If it's an online purchase make sure the return policy doesn't cost you anything. Have the bass inspected by someone when it arrives and if found faulty, return it. Hope this helps. Again, welcome to TB. Lots of friendly folks here willing to help and share.
 
I would love to have one with a three-way selector switch, which would give me three super usable sounds that I know I dig (P, P/J, J bridge). I’m planning to use that configuration on my first parts build, which I will start as soon as I have things like free time and disposable income.
This is how my Tony Franklin fretless is set up, and I enjoy and recommend it.
 
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