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PJ Club

Between the PJ elite and ultra what do you prefer?

I bought the Ultra but if it did not exist I would gladly purchase the Elite. Ultra sounded a little more 'Vintage' to me both Passive and Active. Active preamp also seemed slightly sweeter/more musical? [not sure on adjectives] And Body contours slightly more comfortable as so with full D neck. Notice my use of slightly but the Plasma Red and getting a Brand New one for $1500.00 entered into my decision:)
 
I bought the Ultra but if it did not exist I would gladly purchase the Elite. Ultra sounded a little more 'Vintage' to me both Passive and Active. Active preamp also seemed slightly sweeter/more musical? [not sure on adjectives] And Body contours slightly more comfortable as so with full D neck. Notice my use of slightly but the Plasma Red and getting a Brand New one for $1500.00 entered into my decision:)

Great price AND an ash body. No wonder you're pleased! I paid full whack for mine but don't regret it.
 
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I started my bass career on a PJ. Whatever the cheapest Ibanez Soundgear was offered in the late 90s. I knew nothing of pickups; it was chosen for low cost and a nice neck. But I think that sound has been buried in my subconscious....

Fast forward to Feb 2019. I got a Squier P bass special. It was just fine, but I had to tinker; P-only wiring. Series wiring. Model J. P-only. rewire PJ (fail.) P-only.... on and on.

But tonight I FINALLY got this magnificent beast back up to snuff. I’ve enjoyed hearing it very much! After having it inaccessible for so long I get the PJ now; It’s like a P bass, but stankier. It’s like a Stingray, but richer: and so much more...

Without further ado, my freshly-rewired P bass special:
2CC9F5CB-0BF1-46B6-86A4-A7646D60580F.jpeg
 
Never thought I'd dig a passive bass, until this one...Yamaha BBP35. It's freaking UNBELIEVABLE...could totally stand up to any boutique bass out there, and then some. Btw, the tort guard and speed knobs are aftermarket. Can I have a number, please?
 

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I started my bass career on a PJ. Whatever the cheapest Ibanez Soundgear was offered in the late 90s. I knew nothing of pickups; it was chosen for low cost and a nice neck. But I think that sound has been buried in my subconscious....

Fast forward to Feb 2019. I got a Squier P bass special. It was just fine, but I had to tinker; P-only wiring. Series wiring. Model J. P-only. rewire PJ (fail.) P-only.... on and on.

But tonight I FINALLY got this magnificent beast back up to snuff. I’ve enjoyed hearing it very much! After having it inaccessible for so long I get the PJ now; It’s like a P bass, but stankier. It’s like a Stingray, but richer: and so much more...

Without further ado, my freshly-rewired P bass special:
View attachment 3817061

...but stankier... Cue the perma-grin!!!
 
I want to get back to playing bass after more than 10 years and I am almost set on buying a PJ... I have created a thread with lots of details here:

A bass to come back! Fender Deluxe? Performer? Yamaha BB

But long story short:

- Yamaha BB735a: not in love with the looks... but feature wise seems to be the best option and I have just seen a second hand option for 600€ online (probably ~650€ with shipping)
- Fender Deluxe Special: less features and more expensive, but sounds perfect for me except for the lack of a tone knob
- Fender Performer: is an active bass worth it if I am only going to play next to the amp? going simpler and great quality also sounds great to me

I am waiting for the shops to open around here and try them, but maybe shouldn't let opportunity of that second hand Yamaha pass?

Would love if any PJ owner can throw some comments to the thread above or give me some insights here! :D
 
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I want to get back to playing bass after more than 10 years and I am almost set on buying a PJ... I have created a thread with lots of details here:

A bass to come back! Fender Deluxe? Performer? Yamaha BB

But long story short:

- Yamaha BB735a: not in love with the looks... but feature wise seems to be the best option and I have just seen a second hand option for 600€ online (probably ~650€ with shipping)
- Fender Deluxe Special: less features and more expensive, but sounds perfect for me except for the lack of a tone knob
- Fender Performer: is an active bass worth it if I am only going to play next to the amp? going simpler and great quality also sounds great to me

I am waiting for the shops to open around here and try them, but maybe shouldn't let opportunity of that second hand Yamaha pass?

Would love if any PJ owner can throw some comments to the thread above or give me some insights here! :D

I really like my Fender Performer. I find it easy to play, reasonably light in weight, and most importantly, it sounds great.

Out of your list I think your two best options are the Performer and the Yamaha. I haven’t played that particular Yamaha but I have rarely been disappointed by their BB series though I find them a bit unwieldy for me. Great necks though!

Are you able to try these basses? If so that should help you pick the one that is right for you. If not order from somewhere with a reasonable return policy.
 
Sounds like it is a 50/50 for the Performer and the BB... thanks for sharing all the comments. I like both for different reasons... and waiting to trying both might be the way to go.

In my modest opinion the best sounding P alone is the BB Yamaha. But there are a lot of P basses and P Reverse...

I have seen some comments about the BB P sound being a bit more "modern" or "hot" than Fender's, but I guess it is a matter of personal taste at the end?

If there is some "classic" looking PJ in the 500-800€ or a bit more that I am not considering I am all ears! Most of the others I have discarded because they are only active (e.g. Schecter) or because I wasn't a fan of the look (Sire P7, Ibanez SR650, Jaguar...).

...
Are you able to try these basses? If so that should help you pick the one that is right for you. If not order from somewhere with a reasonable return policy.

I hope I'll be able to try them this or next week... everything has been closed for weeks here and some shops are starting to open again now. Although that second hand Yamaha for 650€ online, bought 2 months ago and perfect condition according to the posting, might be a very good deal to let it pass, even without touching them first.

...
BUT when you roll off tone it only decreases highs without reducing gain ,no bass boost[grease bucket type]

Fender American Performer Precision Bass - Satin Lake Placid Blue with Maple Fingerboard

I have seen some people complaining about the greasebucket tone, but from what I have seen in some videos I think it sounds great. Is there any specific reason about the dislike for the greasebucket or is it mostly because it deviates from the classic P? :p
 
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Sounds like it is a 50/50 for the Performer and the BB... thanks for sharing all the comments. I like both for different reasons... and waiting to trying both might be the way to go.



I hope I'll be able to try them this or next week... everything has been closed for weeks here and some shops are starting to open again now. Although that second hand Yamaha for 650€ online, bought 2 months ago and perfect condition according to the posting, might be a very good deal to let it pass, even without touching them first.



I have seen some people complaining about the greasebucket tone, but from what I have seen in some videos I think it sounds great. Is there any specific reason about the dislike for the greasebucket or is it mostly because it deviates from the classic P? :p


I think that pretty much nails it. Like anything else once you figure out how it works it can become useful. I find it useful. On my more standard Precisions I find the tone control works best for me when it’s between 50%-80%. With the Grease Bucket I am able to extend the range. Both can be pretty awesome when up full as well.

I can’t argue the deal on the Yamaha, that is a really good deal.
 
...

I have seen some people complaining about the greasebucket tone, but from what I have seen in some videos I think it sounds great. Is there any specific reason about the dislike for the greasebucket or is it mostly because it deviates from the classic P? :p

My P/J is wired with a switchable greasebucket/standard tone circuit - both are useful...
Wiring Diagram.jpg
 
My P/J is wired with a switchable greasebucket/standard tone circuit - both are useful...
View attachment 3841731
I like it. I have questions. Forgive me if they're stupid questions.
1) Is a greasebucket something more than a 0.022uF cap + resistor?
1.a) Why does the greasebucket connect to the middle lug, and the switchable tone to an end lug, of the tone pot?
1.b) To my untrained eye, it looks like like duplicate 0.022uF caps that can be switched on and off.​
2) I was under the impression that a cap is a cap. You show a disk in the greasebucket, and a can in the switchable tone. Is there a reason, or are they interchangeable? Can you use a gumdrop?
3) In the switchable tone, it looks like both caps are on (in parallel) in the lower switch setting. Why does the upper switch position connect directly to the lower switch position, instead of directly to the 0.022uF cap?
 
I like it. I have questions. Forgive me if they're stupid questions.
1) Is a greasebucket something more than a 0.022uF cap + resistor?
1.a) Why does the greasebucket connect to the middle lug, and the switchable tone to an end lug, of the tone pot?
1.b) To my untrained eye, it looks like like duplicate 0.022uF caps that can be switched on and off.​
2) I was under the impression that a cap is a cap. You show a disk in the greasebucket, and a can in the switchable tone. Is there a reason, or are they interchangeable? Can you use a gumdrop?
3) In the switchable tone, it looks like both caps are on (in parallel) in the lower switch setting. Why does the upper switch position connect directly to the lower switch position, instead of directly to the 0.022uF cap?

The greasebucket is just a ground lift to reduce resonance when in the full cut position. The extra cap just goes in series with the main one(s) and seems to preserve mids by raising the cutoff frequency. I settled on the value 0.022uF by experimentation. IIRC the usual value is 0.010uF, so quite small.
The cap types are irrelevant, just what I had lying around.
Your observations on the main cap switch are correct. Position 1 is 0.022uF, the middle position is 0.047uF and the bottom puts both in parallel for 0.069uF, so three values from 2 components.