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Prototype Bass

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  • Total voters
    28
  • Poll closed .
View attachment 3243936

I wanted to see how well this would go over, it is a prototype only. I always like the idea of putting the knobs after the bridge, it makes the end of the body have to be longer, thereby helping to eliminate neck dive. Plus I just like the body shape. Let me know in the comments if I should make it or burn it.

I like the whole concept, and the reverse headstock. The only thing I’m not crazy about is the B string is not straight from the bridge to the tuning gear. It’s got a significant bend at the nut/tree.
 
The forward bridge, reduced body size, short horns and larger headstock means the player will need to contend with significant and fatal neck dive. That's my objective commentary. I'll keep the subjective to myself.
I highly suggest reading Hiscock's book on building a guitar to understand the importance of a useful design.
This would fix the fatal neck dive
images?q=tbn:ANd9GcTU7rjIShWnKOv_X1guHUuUp_Eu9spdpG5k8VOTKDMtPJmnwU66.jpg
maybe...:roflmao:
 
OPs original ask for opinions... TL: DR so these may have been offered

May have issues with:
1. scale
2. string sets
  • you'd need a B from a Long/super long set
3. Pup location
  • Neck Pup may not yield the desired tone for the lowest pitches (but maybe as an effect)
4. ergonomics
  • upper horn may not allow comfort with strap
  • can't sit and play without strap (though Im sure the intent is for this to be seen)
  • Knob location removes palm away from playing area (difficulty in quick adjustments)
 
I am a fan of experimenting with knob/switch locations. I have done some basses with some of the controls moved to the upper horn which I feel has had some success.

However, while people are all talking about neckdive, I'n not sure if that will be a problem or not since the added body below the bridge tends to counterbalance the neck. You'd have to build one to be sure.

But one thing I AM sure about is that it will suffer from the "Steinberger syndrome" This is that because the strap suspensions are moved down the bass. When hanging on a strap it makes the neck stick out too far to the left. This results (like on my Steinberger) of always wanting to play about a fret off all the time. It's why I don't play my steinberger until I fix the strap suspension points.
 
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I think you're scale is going to be off. The way you have it now, it would be a short scale, may be 31"/30", the B string would be floppy.
I took the scale length from the nut to the bridge directly from an actual 35" scale five string bass to get it as exact as I could. Yes there is a lot of wood south of the bridge like an SG style bass, but in this case it is for added weight, not because the scale is short.
 
I wanted to see how well this would go over, it is a prototype only. I always like the idea of putting the knobs after the bridge, it makes the end of the body have to be longer, thereby helping to eliminate neck dive. Plus I just like the body shape. Let me know in the comments if I should make it or burn it.
I seem to see a lot of comments suggesting this is a short scale bass. Nothing could be farther from the truth, as I copied the scale from the nut to the bride from an actual 35" five string bass, simply because it was the easiest way to get the only crucial part of the guitar as close to correct as I could make it. Yes, it has a lot of wood south of the bridge, I did this in the hope that it would avert neck dive by making the body larger in proportion to the neck, which seems to be the other issue everyone has with this design. It also seems to have given it the visual illusion of a short scale bass... actual length of the bass is 52 1/2" or 133.35 centimeters.

As much as I like quirky odd designs....

You may want to re-think that concept, moving the neck farther out will have the opposite effect....more mass farther out increases neck dive and reach. The 35" scale and in-line tuners add to the dive effect.

Also, the body in the pic is still very small in relation to the neck, despite having some extra wood behind the bridge. If you want any sort of usable ergos, maybe add a hootenanny strap button to the back of the headstock. If the top strap pin is going to be located on the body somewhere, the furthest point outward looks to be around the 22nd fret. That's not good geometry.

Sorry to be "that guy", but you did ask for opinions. Cheers.
 
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The scale length is copied directly from an actual 35" five string, so distance from the nut to the bridge is as accurate as I could get it. Please explain to me how it is a short scale?

Someone in the thread before my comment mentioned short scale, IIRC. Sorry if I misinterpreted something.

If it’s a 35” scale with that relative geometry, reach and neck dive are going to be serious issues. It’ll also be an awkward thing to wield on a crowded stage - length is a liability in certain circumstances, also including when you want to find a case or gig bag, or put it in your car.
 
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I took the scale length from the nut to the bridge directly from an actual 35" scale five string bass to get it as exact as I could. Yes there is a lot of wood south of the bridge like an SG style bass, but in this case it is for added weight, not because the scale is short.


You're at the point now where you should do a low fidelity prototype. Get your hands on a big box, cut out the shape to exact scale, add some weights to get the balance close(i was thinking some books might do the trick) and hook up a strap. You should know right away if you should proceed.
 
Someone in the thread before my comment mentioned short scale, IIRC. Sorry if I misinterpreted something.

If it’s a 35” scale with that relative geometry, reach and neck dive are going to be serious issues. It’ll also be an awkward thing to wield on a crowded stage - length is a liability in certain circumstances, also including when you want to find a case or gig bag, or put it in your car.
Yeah, it's huge and would have to have a custom case. I think maybe trimming the headstock, smaller tuners, and some dense wood for the body, it might not dive too badly.
 
You're at the point now where you should do a low fidelity prototype. Get your hands on a big box, cut out the shape to exact scale, add some weights to get the balance close(i was thinking some books might do the trick) and hook up a strap. You should know right away if you should proceed.
This spring I will attempt to make it, just for the look of it, and just for myself, I'll live if it neck-dives, its to be expected from all the SG derivative shapes.
 
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This thing would be absurdly long. A normal 34" bass uses most of the body for the strings. This design meets the body at the 24th fret, has the standard lenghth from there to the bridge to accommodate three pickups and then continues on for the knobs. On the other end, it has an extra big headstock with the five tuners in line.

It will have neckdive unless there is lead packed into the rear end of the body.

I'd rethink the sawtooth design on the headstock. All the pointy bits are weak. When you bang it into something (or lean it against a wall) the black will come off there quite easily.
Yup, 52.5 inches long, makes me glad I'm 6'2" with long arms.
 
Nice design visually. Good to see something that is not effectively a P-bass.
Just looking at this it's certain this will not balance on a strap, it will be extremely neck-heavy, despite having some wood behind the bridge.

It has a small body, no horn, a big long headstock with 5 heavy tuners. The balance will be worse than a flying V bass. The centre of mass will be at the neck joint. It might just balance with both ends of the strap attached to the top 'horn'.
But don't let me put you off, clever placement of strap buttons and a very thick heavy body might make it practical.

The angled pickups make good sense because tonally they brighten the low strings and darken the high strings, so create a more consistent tone.