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Pull ALL the watts

In this case said grain doesn't exist. Of all the considerations watts are the least important, to the extent of being insignificant. The watt fixation is purely the result of the marketeers convincing consumers that watts do matter.

Not dissimilar to the megapixel = sharpness debate in digital cameras. Once you have enough more is not going to get you any real advantage. At best watts is a very rough guide to usability. i.e. I wouldn't buy a 50 watt bass amp to play in a loud rock band, though it might be fine for a small jazz trio playing a low volume gig.
 
Show us a scenario where a cabinet with a pair (for simplicity's sake) of identical 4 Ohm drivers in it can be wired to be anything other than 8 Ohms or 2 Ohms without disconnecting a driver or otherwise modifying it.

Bass_Pounder's post was a blanket statement, much like 80% of this thread.

Its impossible for anyone "including myself" to predict how every setup will react with additional watts.
 
Bass_Pounder's post was a blanket statement, much like 80% of this thread.

Its impossible for anyone "including myself" to predict how every setup will react with additional watts.


That was not the question...........

You said that my statement (and that of every other engineer and designer on this forum) regarding not being able to make an 8 ohm cab into 4 ohms was false.


Please educate the rest of us with how YOU can miraculously circumvent ohms law.

Take your pick.............

A single speaker cab, a 2 speaker cab, a 4 speaker cab
 
Technically, you can use dual voice coils to get drivers that are both 8 ohms and 4 ohms (or both 2 and 4, or 8 and 16) - common practice in car audio, and there are a couple bass cabs (think Epifani maybe?).

It's pretty pointless though because inevitably one of the voice coils is less sensitive. And very expensive woofers.
 
Such as... who, and which cab?
Who's cab have you "put the screws to" and had fail on you because it was rated under "safe displacement figures"? :confused:

Do TB a favor and steer the forum away from these lying miscreants.
Technically they're not lying since they use the thermal rating supplied by Eminence or whoever makes their speakers. But it's very much like using peak wattage instead of RMS to quote power figures on amps, and I think it's as misleading.
 
Technically you could do it using resistors too but it'd be a dumb thing to do seeing as every ounce of extra power would be burned off as heat and if halving impedance didn't wholly double power you'd actually be losing.

Accuswitch anyone? :)