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Question (Warmoth/Geko Content)

Hey ya'll!

I am revamping some ideas for my wanted 5'er an first parts build. I am seriously thinking of doing a Gecko 5 String for this. I have been all over the Warmoth site and cannot seem to figure this out.

Are Warmoth's Gecko necks available with Blocks and Binding?

Also, passive on a Gecko a bad idea? (ya, that question's not opening a Texas sized can of worms, is it?)
 
Hey ya'll!

I am revamping some ideas for my wanted 5'er an first parts build. I am seriously thinking of doing a Gecko 5 String for this. I have been all over the Warmoth site and cannot seem to figure this out.

Are Warmoth's Gecko necks available with Blocks and Binding?

Also, passive on a Gecko a bad idea? (ya, that question's not opening a Texas sized can of worms, is it?)

Sorry, no blocks and binding on a Gecko.

How could passive electronics be a bad idea on a Gecko? I'm not sure I understand the point of the question.
 
Sorry, no blocks and binding on a Gecko.

How could passive electronics be a bad idea on a Gecko? I'm not sure I understand the point of the question.

Thanks for the help...

As to my active/passive question, on the web site it looked like all Gecko Bodies are routed for preamps....I was looking to see who has done a Gecko 5er as a passive bass. I am not crazy about active electronics myself and the only one I ever owned I never played active, only passive....

I am really diggin the idea of a Gecko now....Black Cherry or Trans Black with a figured maple fret board......mmmmmm...
:)
 
Thanks for the help...

As to my active/passive question, on the web site it looked like all Gecko Bodies are routed for preamps....I was looking to see who has done a Gecko 5er as a passive bass. I am not crazy about active electronics myself and the only one I ever owned I never played active, only passive....

I am really diggin the idea of a Gecko now....Black Cherry or Trans Black with a figured maple fret board......mmmmmm...
:)

The bodies are routed to accommodate preamp batteries but you can wire any way you like. You can order it 3, 4 or no holes at all for pots. I ordered mine blank and drilled my own holes. Mine is active/passive.
fromt_raw.jpg

body_final.jpg

full-1.jpg
 
Nice! That last pic looks like the widest Warmoth 5-string neck, right? (The one that's 3.25" wide at the 24th fret.) I've read that the Warmoth necks are heavy, and I'd assume the widest 5-string neck plus it's dual trussrods is the heaviest.

Does it neck dive? How much does this guy weigh total? Does the extended upper horn prevent any neck dive?

Thanks,
Dave
 
I love those Gecko basses. And to the OP: I actually started throwing the idea around of doing a passive 5 myself, although it'd be tuned EADGC. I have no use for a low B :smug:

I'd just get it unrouted for pots and do that myself. Can't they route it for you without the battery compartment though?
 
Warmoth necks are exceedingly heavy. I suspect the designed the horn length to balance that a bit though.

Yeah they're a little on the heavy side. BUT, with light tuners and a body that has an upper horn that reaches the 12th fret, you may never notice. Their necks are quite awesome, too. No dead spots!
 
Nice! That last pic looks like the widest Warmoth 5-string neck, right? (The one that's 3.25" wide at the 24th fret.) I've read that the Warmoth necks are heavy, and I'd assume the widest 5-string neck plus it's dual trussrods is the heaviest.

Does it neck dive? How much does this guy weigh total? Does the extended upper horn prevent any neck dive?

Thanks,
Dave

This has the medium Warmoth neck. Same nut and bridge width as my Pedulla and Lakland. 19mm bridge spacing. It is not really heavy and balances beautifully. It is around 9lbs.
 
Hmmm...ya know, I wouldn't mind at all building a headless Gecko...it shouldn't be too difficult to simply cut the headstock off (although I'd leave enough flare at the end of the neck to allow it to "feel right" to my hand and to allow the bass to hang from a wall hook, etc.) I know at least ABM makes single-string bridge pieces that are also tuners, although they're not cheap. (A Steinberger bridge is out since they're not available in 5-string 19mm spacing, which is what I'd want.)

What do y'all think of that idea?

I'd also love to experiment a bit with pickup placement. I'm pretty sure I'd want the bridge pickup about 1/2 from the bridge(s), but not sure where I'd want the neck pickup. So, I'm thinking I could have them route the whole span between the neck and the bridge (or just do it myself). That way I could easily move the pickups around until I found the right phase cancellation/reinforcement that's pleasing to my ears. I could then put "ramp" sections over the empty spots in the pickup cavity (I would plan on having a ramp near the neck anyway, might as well extend it and make it multiple sections). Plus, taking some wood out would just make the body lighter anyway, and I doubt it would have any adverse effects on tone.

The other thing I'd love to try is one EQ section per pickup...probably something like the EMG-BQS that has low/hi/sweepable mids. I'm thinking I should be able to get some quite interesting stuff with seperate EQ for each pickup. I could get this down to 6 pots (2 stacked bass/treble, 2 stacked mid/sweep, blend, and master volume), which I *think* could be squeezed into the Gecko control cavity.

Speaking of...is the Gecko body of the typical P-bass size, or is it somewhat undersized?

Dave
 
Hmmm...ya know, I wouldn't mind at all building a headless Gecko...it shouldn't be too difficult to simply cut the headstock off (although I'd leave enough flare at the end of the neck to allow it to "feel right" to my hand and to allow the bass to hang from a wall hook, etc.) I know at least ABM makes single-string bridge pieces that are also tuners, although they're not cheap. (A Steinberger bridge is out since they're not available in 5-string 19mm spacing, which is what I'd want.)

What do y'all think of that idea?

You might have trouble getting leverage on the bridge-side tuners, considering that most basses designed to have them have the tuners stick off the side of the bass. If you install them where the bridge should go, you won't be able to tune properly, i think, as body sits too close to the tuners (the screw)
 
Dave, what are you doing on the dark side?

Surely Warmoth would consider making a custom body for you?

With all that wood cut out will there be any body left? What about a 4 string instead, or is the intention for this to be your main axe? I have both stacked and individual pots on different basses and individual are better!

Davo
 
Yeah they're a little on the heavy side. BUT, with light tuners and a body that has an upper horn that reaches the 12th fret, you may never notice. Their necks are quite awesome, too. No dead spots!

Jazz basses also have a horn that reaches the 12th fret.

376px-Fender_Jazz_Bass.jpg


My Warmoth Jazz doesn't necessarily neck drive, but it is very heavy & I don't relish lugging it around.
 
Dave, what are you doing on the dark side?

Surely Warmoth would consider making a custom body for you?

With all that wood cut out will there be any body left? What about a 4 string instead, or is the intention for this to be your main axe? I have both stacked and individual pots on different basses and individual are better!

Davo

Hey man! ;) I come here seeking knowledge...

Yes, the intention would be for this to be one of my main instruments...definitely.

Dave
 
You might have trouble getting leverage on the bridge-side tuners, considering that most basses designed to have them have the tuners stick off the side of the bass. If you install them where the bridge should go, you won't be able to tune properly, i think, as body sits too close to the tuners (the screw)

Man...VERY good point I hadn't considered...thanks for the catch. If/when I get ready to actually tackle this, I'll ask Warmoth if they'll do some custom shaping. Or maybe I'd be better off to just start with the plain block of wood that is pre-routed. Hmmm....

Dave
 
Interesting in reading about the Gecko necks....I am leaning towards the small neck myself, but am thinking more about the medium. I want to try to keep the string spacing close to my 4 bangers without going really wide....

And I am now thinking about the posibility of doing my own blocks on the neck.....but prolly not on a first parts build....

Black Cherry or trans black, matching headstock and maple board with Black dots....Jazz pups and the std Kahler bridge...maybe black hardware....though if I go with a trans red, the hardware will be black or gold.....no pickguard thank you....

And I am thinking of doing the trans colors on a swamp ash body with no veneer.....though I might go with a flamed maple.....lots o time to decide....