OK, this one might be long....
Let me preface this with at one time I was a mechanic and involved with drag racing, both on the track and on the streets. I've had many "classic muscle" cars of all brands, some were good, others were poor performers. One thing to keep in mind is that what was "fast" 40-50 years ago, is not when compared to "fast" today. (There is a guy on youtube with a reprogrammed Tesla that drives to drag strips and runs 10's) The muscle car experience is something different than 99.9999% of people have had in the last 40 years. There is no "hop in the car and go for a drive", drives are planned.
First thing you need to ask yourself is are you prepared to spend an equal amount of time maintaining the classic car as you are driving it? For example, I had a '69 Torino GT convertible, it started life as a 390GT, 4spd toploader, 28 spline equilock w/3.23's, a really nice driver, power disks, am/fm radio, power top. I used it for work, it was a daily driver for 2 years, then I sold the '67 Dodge Dart GTS (383, 4spd, 8-3/4) I was using as a race/street racer and decided to sink the $ into the Torino. I yanked the 390 and started with a '68 427MR block .060 over, Hank the Crank stroker, Carrillo H rods, 12.8-1 pistons, (~488 cubic inches) mechanical cam(324D/.568L/106CL) ported Dove MR heads and a sidewinder intake. the trans was changed to a Liberty skip-tooth syncro box and the diff went to a 31 spline Locker with strange axles (I forget the ratio, maybe 4.88's). We built a frame and roll cage for the car so it wouldn't twist up. The car weighed 3800Lbs and ran 11.1's/122 through mufflers with cheater slicks and granny shifting (there was no such thing as a rev limiter with points and with its ~4-3/4" stroke it would have flown apart.) It needed 30 minutes of time to make one run. On the street, it needed at least 2 hours for every 4 hours it was used. (Set both sets of points, check the plugs to set the mixture, run the valve lash, change jets, adjust float levels, set distributor advance, add timing, check throttle linkage, adjust shifter linkage, adjust clutch, safety check) I should also add that back then there was no Cam2 racing fuel available at gas stations so I would go to the local airfield and fill up with 100LL fuel so I could run about 38 degrees of timing in the car. Compare this to going down to the Ford dealer and getting a 2020 Mustang GT 5.0, that makes 475HP, with AC/cruise/Nav, has a 5yr/100K full warranty and comes with roadside support. You can hop in it and go for a ride anytime.
Muscle cars are labors of love now. They are vehicles to bond with your children if they have any interest at all in them. They are simple enough to be fixed with an adjustable wrench and pliers if you get stuck on the side of the road, they are conversation pieces when you take one to a friends BBQ party or go for a cruise night for ice cream. They are not daily drivers, grocery getters, primary car, they are toys, expensive, high maintenance toys.
Another thing I would like to say, they aren't cars that anyone can jump in and drive, especially drivers younger than 30 unless they have been taught how to. They require a lot of operating skills that haven't been needed for the last 40 years such as how to operate a hand choke, how to prime a cold engine, proper warm up, how to stop fast without anti-lock brakes, how to accelerate hard without traction control, how to anticipate oversteer/understeer and correct it at high speed, adjusted (very long) stopping distances, odd chassis reaction to road surface irregularities, torquesteer etc.
I still have my '70 340 Swinger, right now, I'm in the process of de-tuning it to be more of a street car than a race car on the street. I've taken it from 408 back to 340CI, took compression out of it, back to 10.5-1, swapped the W5 race heads to "econo" W2's, went to step-headers, out with the billit roller and in with a 284D/514/112CL solid cam, single 4 intake, took out the Coan 8" 4500 stall converter, Tranz-brake, in went in a 3000 stall/TCI auto valve body and the 5.14's are out and 3.91's are in. In race form it was 2800 Lbs running 10.06@131 naturally aspirated, no bottle. I figure back to mostly stock 3300Lbs it should be running low 12's/108ish and be drivable.
The little Dodge A-bodies are formidable street racing cars, many times big-block Chevelles, Fairlanes and Chargers were handed their hat by a 340/727/8-3/4 Dart/Duster/Swinger with a Direct Connection intake, Purpleshaft hydraulic cam and a set of either '70 HP manifolds or headers. Those will run 13'Os all day long through the mufflers on street tires and put down 60 foot times that makes cars with slicks embarrassed. There is also the option of Cobra kit cars......
Tom