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Rattle Can Refinish Club

#1,984
murphy said:
Hahaha..

..I no longer have a facility to spray.. :(
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Come on Murphy, you've seen my spray booth :)

20210512_182030.jpg
 
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#1,991
Man, been a while that I've hung out with the rattle caners. Some really nice looking finishes. Some of the rattle can burst are fantastic. Maybe one day I'll get brave and try my hand at it. It has been quite awhile, I've rattled 4 basses since my last visit here to the club, so I thought I'd post. Here's thumbnails you can click on. One day I'll figure out how to make my pics a bit smaller to fit better.:)

20180829_153811.jpg 20200114_122258.jpg K bass wht.jpg Wall 1 (2).jpg
 
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#1,992
funkinbottom said:
Man, been a while that I've hung out with the rattle caners. Some really nice looking finishes. Some of the rattle can burst are fantastic. Maybe one day I'll get brave and try my hand at it. It has been quite awhile, I've rattled 4 basses since my last visit here to the club, so I thought I'd post. Here's thumbnails you can click on. One day I'll figure out how to make my pics a bit smaller to fit better.:)

View attachment 4631064 View attachment 4631065 View attachment 4631067 View attachment 4631069
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Good work and very impressive.
Any new secrets to getting that glassy finish?
 
#1,993
murphy said:
Good work and very impressive.
Any new secrets to getting that glassy finish?
Click to expand...

Thanks man. Sorry, no new secrets I know of, but a painter friend of mine told me a long ago, the key to a good looking finish is good prep work. I sanded, gain filled and sealed, then sanded and primed. Once primed, filled and sanded more and repeated that process until imperfections were gone. I apply a couple coats of paint, then wet sand though the grits, didn't go too crazy there, just made it flat and then a final color coat. Then lots of light coats of clear. Wet sand through grits, and more clear. Repeat that process until desired depth. Once to that point, wet sand flat to get rid of any orange peel. After wet sanding, I switch to rubbing compound to get all the fine scratches out, then buff and polish with Meguiar's ultimate polish. Any auto store near by should carry it. Also tons of place to buy online. Of coarse, if you're looking for a more matte finish and open grain look, no need to fill grain so much.
 
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#1,994
funkinbottom said:
Thanks man. Sorry, no new secrets I know of, but a painter friend of mine told me a long ago, the key to a good looking finish is good prep work. I sanded, gain filled and sealed, then sanded and primed. Once primed, filled and sanded more and repeated that process until imperfections were gone. I apply a couple coats of paint, then wet sand though the grits, didn't go too crazy there, just made it flat and then a final color coat. Then lots of light coats of clear. Wet sand through grits, and more clear. Repeat that process until desired depth. Once to that point, wet sand flat to get rid of any orange peel. After wet sanding, I switch to rubbing compound to get all the fine scratches out, then buff and polish with Meguiar's ultimate polish. Any auto store near by should carry it. Also tons of place to buy online. Of coarse, if you're looking for a more matte finish and open grain look, no need to fill grain so much.
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This should be made into a sticky..
Thanks for your detailed instructions and it sounds like if they are followed ...a beautiful finish can be achieved.
 
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#1,996
Davyo said:
Thanks, and yeah that might happen.
I’m just a little bit hesitant on the steel wool as I had used it once on a bass many years ago and it was definitely a bit of a cleanup mess afterwards.
I’ve never tried the gray Scotch Bright pads yet or really fine sandpaper so those will probably happen before the steel wool.
I’m also kinda wondering what the Magic Eraser pads could possibly do.
Cheers, Davyo
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Did you try any of the above methods?
Easier with a Nitro finish...But not sure how that could work on Poly?
 

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