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Rattle Can Refinish Club
- Thread starter redlikejazz
- Start date
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- Tags
- club
If anyone here is new to rattle can refinishing, I've been using a quick and easy method that gets great results for a solid color matte finish. It gets rid of a few steps, and uses products that are readily available in any big box store. Assuming you have a pre-finished body in good shape (no dings, gouges, etc.), it's fairly foolproof and inexpensive.
1. Body prep: wipe down with alcohol wipe to get rid of any fingerprints, dirt, etc. No need to sand.
2. Tape off neck pocket and all cavities.
3. Spray color/primer in one. Krylon Colormaxx or Fusion is what I use, but Rustoleum 2X Ultra is also fine. Start with extremely light coats, then continue until you've achieved good coverage. I do all this in one session.
4. Let color dry overnight, then spray Krylon Colormaxx satin clear (Rustoleum satin clear if you're using their paint). Start light, then go a bit heavier. I do all this in one session as well.
5. Wait 3-4 days, then buff out to matte with 0000 steel wool. Try to get rid of as much shine as you can. If you like how it looks without buffing, leave as is.
1. Body prep: wipe down with alcohol wipe to get rid of any fingerprints, dirt, etc. No need to sand.
2. Tape off neck pocket and all cavities.
3. Spray color/primer in one. Krylon Colormaxx or Fusion is what I use, but Rustoleum 2X Ultra is also fine. Start with extremely light coats, then continue until you've achieved good coverage. I do all this in one session.
4. Let color dry overnight, then spray Krylon Colormaxx satin clear (Rustoleum satin clear if you're using their paint). Start light, then go a bit heavier. I do all this in one session as well.
5. Wait 3-4 days, then buff out to matte with 0000 steel wool. Try to get rid of as much shine as you can. If you like how it looks without buffing, leave as is.
JeezyMcNuggles
Inactive
- Feb 23, 2018
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Yeah, that was my first build.Greatgoogaliemoogalie!!!HOW?! That's unreal! Done with rattle-cans?! ...or did I miss some inside joke lol
Satin minwax spray poly.
Seems like there is some real pro experience on this group, and I wanted to run this by you. Several months ago, my daughter did this amazing paint job with acrylic artist paint, but the problem is that some of the sponge she used got stuck in the paint, and even though this is after a few cans of clear, if you zoom in you'll see some major texture going on.
What I've been doing is spraying a can of clear, waiting several minutes in between coats. I'm using Rust-Oleum 2X Gloss Clear because it's the best stuff in a spray can that I have access to. Then, I wait about a month for it to cure, as I don't want to trap solvent, and do it all over again. I've done about 4 cans so far, and it's getting progressively flatter (this picture was before the last can, it looks a bit flatter now), but I'm wondering if I should I try a different approach or just keep at it?
What I've been doing is spraying a can of clear, waiting several minutes in between coats. I'm using Rust-Oleum 2X Gloss Clear because it's the best stuff in a spray can that I have access to. Then, I wait about a month for it to cure, as I don't want to trap solvent, and do it all over again. I've done about 4 cans so far, and it's getting progressively flatter (this picture was before the last can, it looks a bit flatter now), but I'm wondering if I should I try a different approach or just keep at it?
But...to flatten the surface , I believe it requires sanding
Yup, you need to get enough clear on to bury the texture AND give you room to wet sand it flat and buff it out. You do wanna wait for it to cure before you wet sand.
I think I'll try to so some careful sanding after it cures this time around, and then reassess.
Last edited:
Because of the nature of the finish and its irreplaceability I'd er on the side of caution and keep coating. I put a full 4 cans of oil based poly on this project before cutting it flat with wet sanding and buffing (I buffed by hand) with 3 levels of polishing compound. It came out nice but I didn't have any really funky textures to sand out, just the typical orange peel. You can't really hurt anything by adding more clear (other than your wallet cause cans add up
). You will take a fair bit off, even if you start wet sanding with 800 grit or lighter so you want to be protected from burn through.
Because of the nature of the finish and its irreplaceability I'd er on the side of caution and keep coating. I put a full 4 cans of oil based poly on this project before cutting it flat with wet sanding and buffing (I buffed by hand) with 3 levels of polishing compound. It came out nice but I didn't have any really funky textures to sand out, just the typical orange peel. You can't really hurt anything by adding more clear (other than your wallet cause cans add up
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Looks great!
Glad you caught my post before I edited it, good to get the extra feedback. So maybe I'll add another can of clear. For now, it's sitting away curing.
Finishing up a clone of the Fender Sean Hurley CS Precision. Krylon Fusion Dark Metal Metallic gets pretty close to Charcoal Frost.
I also wonder what people's experiences are on that with some of these products. I'll add my own, based on using Rust-Oleum 2X though: It hardens up over the course of one year to something that is not quite as durable as a factory finish but still provides adequate protection (in my opinion). Say, something along the lines of "extremely difficult to scratch with a fingernail but maybe not impossible."
What bass is that!?Because of the nature of the finish and its irreplaceability I'd er on the side of caution and keep coating. I put a full 4 cans of oil based poly on this project before cutting it flat with wet sanding and buffing (I buffed by hand) with 3 levels of polishing compound. It came out nice but I didn't have any really funky textures to sand out, just the typical orange peel. You can't really hurt anything by adding more clear (other than your wallet cause cans add up
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Try not to flame me
had a accident with a ground screw and also wanted to repaint it
so.. how can I make this happen ?
To Inca silver
atelier z
had a accident with a ground screw and also wanted to repaint it
so.. how can I make this happen ?
To Inca silver
atelier z
If I were doing it, I'd use Bondo Glazing and Spot Putty for filling the hole, then the refin.
