Rattle Can Refinish Club

[lark_z]

When I originally built it these spots were just filled with some wood putty. The heat gun melted it out a bit.
Anyone have any ideas to fill it better and be able to smooth it out?

I had very good success with the Bondo WOOD filler from Home Depot when I fixed the bad places in the dumpster special. It's catalyzed just like the Bondo we (maybe) used back in the day on the cars. Sands cleanly.
https://www.homedepot.com/p/3M-Bondo-12-fl-oz-Wood-Filler-30081/206680651

The Bondo is the tan 'filler' at the heel. The finish had been seriously damaged there.

 

[Gilmourisgod]

Thank God for Bondo. I use the Minwax High Performance Wood Filler, which is just Bondo with some kind of wood dusty pre-mixed in. My problem is I always seem to get the mix slightly off, and it kicks before I can use all of it. I guess that's better than using too little hardener, and it never cures. I wish somebody made a straight 50:50 two part creamy Bondo in a can, you can get it in epoxy putty rolls, but it's a lot harder to work.

 

[BAG]

Thanks guys. Just out of interest, and because I already have it at home, would Araldite two part epoxy work or would the different expansion and contraction of it compared to wood potentially crack the finish in time?

 

[Dadum]

Thanks guys. Just out of interest, and because I already have it at home, would Araldite two part epoxy work or would the different expansion and contraction of it compared to wood potentially crack the finish in time?

You’d need to post which type that you have but I think that’s an adhesive more than a gap filler. It may be rated for 5 mm gaps at the most. Many specialty fillers make smoother transitions, especially during sanding.

 

[BAG]

I did a search in the garage and found some filler so I've filled the divots and have watered some down and did a grain filler.

How fine should I sand before the first coat of paint?
I'm using Rustoleum which claims to be paint and printer in one. Do I need to do a printer coat?

 

[lark_z]

I did a search in the garage and found some filler so I've filled the divots and have watered some down and did a grain filler.

How fine should I sand before the first coat of paint?
I'm using Rustoleum which claims to be paint and printer in one. Do I need to do a printer coat?

300 grit for me, but you're likely OK just going to 200/220. I'd just do several light coats of the combined paint/primer. The only issue I foresee is that the filler and wood may take the paint differently. Primer would help with this, but an extra coat of the paint will do the same.

 

[BAG]

Thanks for that Lark.
I read the cans and will probably do at least a thin coat of primer as it recommends. While this is still a beater bass it is my first attempt at a decent finish.
Two more questions for now.....

1. Is there any downside to sanding too fine before hitting it with the primer?
2. Do I need to sand the primer before colour?

 

[Aidenn7]

Thanks for that Lark.
I read the cans and will probably do at least a thin coat of primer as it recommends. While this is still a beater bass it is my first attempt at a decent finish.
Two more questions for now.....

1. Is there any downside to sanding too fine before hitting it with the primer?
2. Do I need to sand the primer before colour?

Do the filler.. let set for few days to a week my sure it cures.. Sanded lightly.. 80 200 then 400.. Then do a sandable primer.. The sand 200 then 400.. What the primer base does is make the wood and filler have a constant adhesion.. Next come color no sanding the color just 3 coat one heavy two light coats then repeat in 48hrs.. Once you got it put multiple clear coats and wet sand after ever 3 coats.. And then let cure for a couple weeks..

 

[BAG]

Thank you so much.

 

[lark_z]

Re- sanding the primer. If you view the primer as another fill coat - which it can be - then sand it. I've seen some projects where someone primes, then sands until approximately 50% of the primer is gone, then reprimes and sands until 75% is gone. You get the drift, they're filling small imperfections with primer. I've done it both ways. The rattle-can finish coat isn't so smooth that you're likely to ever tell whether the primer was sanded.

I'd be cautious with 'heavy coats', especially if the humidity is high. Not saying it cannot be done successfully.

 

[definenredefine]

Re- sanding the primer. If you view the primer as another fill coat - which it can be - then sand it. I've seen some projects where someone primes, then sands until approximately 50% of the primer is gone, then reprimes and sands until 75% is gone. You get the drift, they're filling small imperfections with primer. I've done it both ways. The rattle-can finish coat isn't so smooth that you're likely to ever tell whether the primer was sanded.

I'd be cautious with 'heavy coats', especially if the humidity is high. Not saying it cannot be done successfully.

Not trying to be a smarty pants but how on earth does one estimate how much primer has been sanded off? And is it better to hand sand in order to (hopefully) prevent oversanding?

 

[lark_z]

Not trying to be a smarty pants but how on earth does one estimate how much primer has been sanded off? And is it better to hand sand in order to (hopefully) prevent oversanding?

The primer is on so thin that when it's sanded much it's gone. So, it's 50% sanded, when only 50% can be seen. In other words, 50% of the base is seen. It's a good question, not "smarty-pants" at all.

 

[definenredefine]

The primer is on so thin that when it's sanded much it's gone. So, it's 50% sanded, when only 50% can be seen. In other words, 50% of the base is seen. It's a good question, not "smarty-pants" at all.

I see. So basically right when you start to see the grain?

 

[PeaveyPlayer]

No kidding on guard of armour

Gonna be tough but gonna try and attempt it

might stain

but was hoping for yellow

 

[swagbotbilly]

Unfortunately my WB polyurethane spray project is NOT going well.

So this was a nice thread to find

 

[60bass]

Here's my Jackson which I recently had a friend refinish. I didn't like the uber white natural Maple of the neck and also flat black ain't my thing. Added a used set of EMG Geezer Butler signature pups and also during the refinish I had him shave down the fat "D" neck profile to more of a rounded "C" . This is Jackson's entry level bass and I only paid $179.00 on sale at GC. Now looks, Sounds, and plays way above it's price point.

The neck looks so much better with the amber tint and gloss clear. Really makes the Birdseye and flame Maple pop. Body was just a quick scuff and spray with clear gloss. A Huge improvement. At least to my eyes.

 

[deff]

That looks great!

 

[60bass]

That looks great!

Thanks. The body's pretty scratch prone now with the clear gloss on it but you can only see it up close. Not a big deal for me but others may not like it.

If Jackson would do this finish they'd probably sell a butt load of these basses.

 

[swagbotbilly]

What are y'all using for top coats?

I was thinking about doing a Rustoleum bright green and topcoating with the Rustoleum clear lacquer or TruOil

 

[friskinator]

What are y'all using for top coats?

I was thinking about doing a Rustoleum bright green and topcoating with the Rustoleum clear lacquer or TruOil

I don’t think TruOil is meant for topcoating anything other than bare wood. If you’re doing a solid color, stick to standard clear or lacquer.