Will this end up "matte" enough if you use a gloss color coat? Also would love to see some pictures and get your perspective on how the finish feels under your arm.
Enjoy the benefits of a premium membership!
Upgrade Account
-
TalkBass has been independent since 1998. Add your voice.
Create a free account to reply to discussions, view embedded media, and browse with fewer display ads.
Join free Log in
Want zero display ads or expanded classifieds tools? Compare plans.
Rattle Can Refinish Club
- Thread starter redlikejazz
- Start date
-
- Tags
- club
Will this end up "matte" enough if you use a gloss color coat? Also would love to see some pictures and get your perspective on how the finish feels under your arm.
It should be matte enough even with a gloss color. Here's one I did in gloss orange color with a matte clear. The second one is with a matte color and clear. It feels nice and smooth on my arm, and if it ever shines up again from your arm rubbing on it, you can buff it out again with the steel wool.
Sorry for blowing up the thread, why bother taping off the cavities?
Also, I had picked up some of the Zinsser primer, but if I'm doing the rest of it in Painters Touch, should I just stick with that?
Also, I had picked up some of the Zinsser primer, but if I'm doing the rest of it in Painters Touch, should I just stick with that?
Last edited:
The main cavity to tape off is the neck cavity. You could encounter issues getting the neck to fit back in the pocket if there's paint buildup. For the control cavities, if they're already painted with shielding paint (or shielded with tape), you don't want to paint over them.
The 2 I mentioned were factory finished bodies, and I literally just sprayed the color/primer in one over the clean stock finish. I used Krylon Colormaxx and Rust-Oleum 2X paint/primer in one.
Thanks! As far as I know there wasnt any shielding paint on this one, so I'll probably end up doing copper tape anyway.
This was a cheap bass body and had quite a few dings, so I had already sanded it back quite a bit.
@friskinator do you feel like the clear paint holds up pretty well? Originally was going to do wipe-on poly but
I think so. If you’re doing the buffed out matte finish, you won’t need more than one can of clear. Just stay consistent with brands and you’ll be fine.
Those look great. And just the question of a novice here. But if you don't get rid of the old clear coat won't the new coats peel pretty easily? That was my understanding and why I stripped both of my parts bass bodies before my kids painted them.
And if you're putting on paint first would it really matter if you did matte or gloss?
Again, just asking, not trying to undermine your process.
Painting over the existing finish is a reliable, durable method. I’ve only used that method, and I’ve never stripped completely. I still own the first bass I did that way, and it’s going on 10 years with no issues. You just have to make sure to not spray poly over lacquer. The reverse is fine.
With the clear, I guess it doesn’t really matter if you use matte or gloss if you intend on buffing out to matte anyway. But I’ve never tried to polish a can of matte clear to gloss.
With the clear, I guess it doesn’t really matter if you use matte or gloss if you intend on buffing out to matte anyway. But I’ve never tried to polish a can of matte clear to gloss.
This is one I did using matte paint and satin clear. I didn't even bother buffing this one out with steel wool and it looked pretty good.
I just learned the hard way that it might be better not to tape off the other cavities at all, or if you do, at least to remove the tape when the finish is still tacky, but in any case not to wait until it's cured. If you wait, then the tape is hard to remove without causing any chipping, and even if you're successful, you'll be left with a very fragile edge, and then when you go to install pickups, you might chip the edges. I know this
because I just had this problem, and I ended up sanding the finish on the edges of the cavities flush to their walls in order to prevent any further chipping - but it was a difficult process. Lesson learned!I just learned the hard way that it might be better not to tape off the other cavities at all, or if you do, at least to remove the tape when the finish is still tacky, but in any case not to wait until it's cured. If you wait, then the tape is hard to remove without causing any chipping, and even if you're successful, you'll be left with a very fragile edge, and then when you go to install pickups, you might chip the edges. I know this
Oh whoa i had never though of that...
Dont know if i'll ever dare refinishing that Mini P....
I just learned the hard way that it might be better not to tape off the other cavities at all, or if you do, at least to remove the tape when the finish is still tacky, but in any case not to wait until it's cured. If you wait, then the tape is hard to remove without causing any chipping, and even if you're successful, you'll be left with a very fragile edge, and then when you go to install pickups, you might chip the edges. I know this
I'm sure this has happened to me, but the pickguard covers the flaws.
It happened to me BIG TIME on my current build
The pickguard should cover it, but I need to put more color on anyway, so this time around I'm not going to cover the cavities (only the neck pocket perhaps)
