Rattle Can Refinish Club

[lark_z]

I don’t think TruOil is meant for topcoating anything other than bare wood. If you’re doing a solid color, stick to standard clear or lacquer.

I've done TruOil over leather dye on bare wood, it worked well. The leather dye gave a me a transparent color. If I had it to do over again, I'd do the dye, then clear coat spray. TruOil isn't that well suited for impatient sorts, like me.

What are y'all using for top coats?

I was thinking about doing a Rustoleum bright green and topcoating with the Rustoleum clear lacquer or TruOil

I believe if you troll this LONG thread, you'll find less love for Rustoleum. Most anything can work well, if it's properly applied. Personally, I'd go with Krylon or something in the automotive spray line, then topcoat with whatever is recommended on the color container. READ THE LABEL! Thin coats, lots of them.

 

[Gilmourisgod]

I’m a recent convert to Minwax Wipe On Poly, applied with round makeup sponges. It’s stupid easy and forgiving, the sponges act like a super fine foam brush, and leave almost no brush marks, far less surface texture than a typical “orange peel” Rattlecan finish. The only downside is it goes on very thin, so 20+ coats to get a really high gloss build, and you have to let it cure at least a couple weeks before wet sanding, so 2 coats a day x 10 days + 14 days cure. It ambers the surface like Tru-Oil, but dries MUCH harder.

 

[swagbotbilly]

I don’t think TruOil is meant for topcoating anything other than bare wood. If you’re doing a solid color, stick to standard clear or lacquer.

I saw a DIYGene video where he did a body with TruOil over Apple Barn acrylic, and it turned out really well.

I'm tempted to do lacquer though, although I don't quite understand how to know when to recoat, sand, and when it's done curing

 

[swagbotbilly]

I've done TruOil over leather dye on bare wood, it worked well. The leather dye gave a me a transparent color. If I had it to do over again, I'd do the dye, then clear coat spray. TruOil isn't that well suited for impatient sorts, like me.



I believe if you troll this LONG thread, you'll find less love for Rustoleum. Most anything can work well, if it's properly applied. Personally, I'd go with Krylon or something in the automotive spray line, then topcoat with whatever is recommended on the color container. READ THE LABEL! Thin coats, lots of them.

I ended up getting a different Behr product, but the color is perfect, so we shall see.

It doesn't say anything about clear coating, so I might need to give the mfgr a call.

I see a lot of different methods about many coats. I was kind of planning on doing what I'd done before with decent results (although not on a bass), ~5 coats a day 10-15 min apart, then wait 2-3 days, sand a bit if needed, and repeat.

When you say clear coat spray, I guess you're talking about auto spray?

 

[lark_z]

I see a lot of different methods about many coats. I was kind of planning on doing what I'd done before with decent results (although not on a bass), ~5 coats a day 10-15 min apart, then wait 2-3 days, sand a bit if needed, and repeat.

When you say clear coat spray, I guess you're talking about auto spray?

Your methodology seems very reasonable.

Re - clear coat, I tend to try and match the color coat (same manufacturer), but not always. I'm no expert.

 

[BAG]

So, on Saturday I learnt to read the directions on the spray can properly and not pretend that I remember them properly.

I'd prepped a body, sanded, sprayed a coat of primer.... found out that I hadn't done a good enough job of the grain filler as the primer soaked into some areas on the back, sanded more, grain filled again, sprayed another coat of primer, still some soaking in but thought the paint would fill it enough. I hit it with Rustoleum Gloss Black, numerous coats a 5 or so minutes apart. There was still some paint soaking into the grain and I kept going hoping it would build up enough to fill it. Towards the end I hit the area a bit too much and got a bit of a bulge/run/slag but didn't worry as I'll sand a bit before clear coating and it did seem to have filled the worst of the grain.

Anyway, the next day (and here's where I really screw up) I decided to do a couple of more coats and maybe not have to do much if any sanding before clear coat.
I did the first coat and it all looked pretty smooth, left it for 5 or so minutes and went back in to do another coat and the whole thing looked like it had reacted leaving a rough crinkly looking finish. It was after that I re-read the can where it states to recoat within 1 hour or after 48 hours.

Looks like I'll be doing some sanding in a week or so.

 

[JIO]

So, on Saturday I learnt to read the directions on the spray can properly and not pretend that I remember them properly.

I'd prepped a body, sanded, sprayed a coat of primer.... found out that I hadn't done a good enough job of the grain filler as the primer soaked into some areas on the back, sanded more, grain filled again, sprayed another coat of primer, still some soaking in but thought the paint would fill it enough. I hit it with Rustoleum Gloss Black, numerous coats a 5 or so minutes apart. There was still some paint soaking into the grain and I kept going hoping it would build up enough to fill it. Towards the end I hit the area a bit too much and got a bit of a bulge/run/slag but didn't worry as I'll sand a bit before clear coating and it did seem to have filled the worst of the grain.

Anyway, the next day (and here's where I really screw up) I decided to do a couple of more coats and maybe not have to do much if any sanding before clear coat.
I did the first coat and it all looked pretty smooth, left it for 5 or so minutes and went back in to do another coat and the whole thing looked like it had reacted leaving a rough crinkly looking finish. It was after that I re-read the can where it states to recoat within 1 hour or after 48 hours.

Looks like I'll be doing some sanding in a week or so.

What type of paint was it?... enamel?, lacquer?, acrylic? Another pitfall is too heavy a coat. The thicker the coat - the longer it needs to cure. And if really thick/heavy, it may never fully cure. Multiple light coats with the prescribed cure time between. Much easier to build up a nice finish incrementally than attempting to make it look 'good' and over-spraying. And finally - the primer coating should be as 'perfect' as the finish coating. So spend more time getting a smooth, even primer coating with wet-sanding between coats. If the primer coat looks 'perfect', your finish coating, if done correctly - will be the easy part.

 

[BAG]

What type of paint was it?...

This one. It's an enamel.

All your comments will be followed next time....

 

[murphy]

This one. It's an enamel.
View attachment 4804316

All your comments will be followed next time....

Ah yes...I have used this type of paint....and it is not a lacquer and I was never happy with the results...and yes...got that crinkle you speak of.

 

[murphy]

Ah yes...I have used this type of paint....and it is not a lacquer and I was never happy with the results...and yes...got that crinkle you speak of.

If I remember correctly, is a tone killer also?

 

[Changed5Times]

So, on Saturday I learnt to read the directions on the spray can properly and not pretend that I remember them properly.

I'd prepped a body, sanded, sprayed a coat of primer.... found out that I hadn't done a good enough job of the grain filler as the primer soaked into some areas on the back, sanded more, grain filled again, sprayed another coat of primer, still some soaking in but thought the paint would fill it enough. I hit it with Rustoleum Gloss Black, numerous coats a 5 or so minutes apart. There was still some paint soaking into the grain and I kept going hoping it would build up enough to fill it. Towards the end I hit the area a bit too much and got a bit of a bulge/run/slag but didn't worry as I'll sand a bit before clear coating and it did seem to have filled the worst of the grain.

Anyway, the next day (and here's where I really screw up) I decided to do a couple of more coats and maybe not have to do much if any sanding before clear coat.
I did the first coat and it all looked pretty smooth, left it for 5 or so minutes and went back in to do another coat and the whole thing looked like it had reacted leaving a rough crinkly looking finish. It was after that I re-read the can where it states to recoat within 1 hour or after 48 hours.

Looks like I'll be doing some sanding in a week or so.

I've used 2x a lot and learned the hard way that you have to be really patient with it - now I wait a week (or even a few weeks) before doing anything (respraying, sanding, clear coating, etc.). This was 2x black, though I think that it was the matt black and not the gloss black - my experience is that the gloss colors (and the gloss clear) run very easily and need much more care when spaying than the matt colors.

 

[JIO]

This one. It's an enamel.
View attachment 4804316

All your comments will be followed next time....

I'm familiar and have used that product. Many paint formula's now read "paint & primer" which is geared to consumers, much like "one coat" paint. It appeals to people who want one-stop finishing. In certain utilitarian applications, that is sufficient. But it's more of a top-coat finish than a primer. A primer coating creates a sand-able base which fills subtle surface imperfections (not to be confused with a grain-filler) so the top coating is smooth and blemish-free.

I've found this to be my favorite (white) primer. Drys fast and flat and sands nicely.

 

[swagbotbilly]

I'm familiar and have used that product. Many paint formula's now read "paint & primer" which is geared to consumers, much like "one coat" paint. It appeals to people who want one-stop finishing. In certain utilitarian applications, that is sufficient. But it's more of a top-coat finish than a primer. A primer coating creates a sand-able base which fills subtle surface imperfections (not to be confused with a grain-filler) so the top coating is smooth and blemish-free.

I've found this to be my favorite (white) primer. Drys fast and flat and sands nicely.

View attachment 4804589

I have not been excited about my 2x primer this go around, so I may try this stuff (looks like I can find it anyway).

Related: if I got a little hasty with my sanding and got some spots down to the wood, should I grain fill those, or just prime?

 

[60bass]

Here's another one of my rattle can refinished basses. Done by my friend Roy of Harper Guitars in Yuma, AZ. Started life as a plain looking MIM P bass in white with a plain looking Mighty Mite neck. I shipped it to him in Yuma and told him to "just do it". Whatever he wanted. What you see here is the end result. Fiesta Red nitro body. Amber tint neck with clear nitro. Added vintage style Fender decal and a set of vintage GOTOH tuners. For pickup I went with a Fender vintage 62 and I also applied copper foil tape to the bottom of the magnets and grounded them to the harness. That stops any buzzing should you accidentally touch the pole pieces. USA Kelling sound wiring harness. Vintage 59 style threaded saddle bridge. Since the body and all the parts are genuine Fender and the Mighty Mite neck is licensed by Fender I had no reservations about adding the Fender logo to the bass. Besides the MM neck has a real rosewood board and a MIM neck is Pau Ferro or Indian Laurel.

This bass is a real stunner in person. I'm running a bridge cover on it because to me it just looks good on there. Very happy with the job Roy did in this one.

Nice but somewhat meh.

 

[BAG]

I'm familiar and have used that product. Many paint formula's now read "paint & primer" which is geared to consumers, much like "one coat" paint. It appeals to people who want one-stop finishing. In certain utilitarian applications, that is sufficient. But it's more of a top-coat finish than a primer. A primer coating creates a sand-able base which fills subtle surface imperfections (not to be confused with a grain-filler) so the top coating is smooth and blemish-free.

I've found this to be my favorite (white) primer. Drys fast and flat and sands nicely.

View attachment 4804589

Is it OK to use this primer under Rustoleum enamel top coat?
I can get the Zinsser primer but not any colours whereas Rustoleum appears to be a lot more available here.

 

[JIO]

Is it OK to use this primer under Rustoleum enamel top coat?
I can get the Zinsser primer but not any colours whereas Rustoleum appears to be a lot more available here.

It's a universal primer. Any type/brand of paint can go on top once it's cured.

 

[Changed5Times]

I'm familiar and have used that product. Many paint formula's now read "paint & primer" which is geared to consumers, much like "one coat" paint. It appeals to people who want one-stop finishing. In certain utilitarian applications, that is sufficient. But it's more of a top-coat finish than a primer. A primer coating creates a sand-able base which fills subtle surface imperfections (not to be confused with a grain-filler) so the top coating is smooth and blemish-free.

I've found this to be my favorite (white) primer. Drys fast and flat and sands nicely.

View attachment 4804589

I've never seen that one in the stores here, but what we do get is this one, and my experience is similar to yours, I get great results with it, and consistently. If only the 2x colors/clear were as easy and consistent!

 

[swagbotbilly]

I've never seen that one in the stores here, but what we do get is this one, and my experience is similar to yours, I get great results with it, and consistently. If only the 2x colors/clear were as easy and consistent!

View attachment 4806801

I saw this one at the Big Orange store too, but I couldn't really tell at a glance what the difference was.

 

[JIO]

I have not been excited about my 2x primer this go around, so I may try this stuff (looks like I can find it anyway).

Related: if I got a little hasty with my sanding and got some spots down to the wood, should I grain fill those, or just prime?

A light prime coat wet-sanded smooth should do it. If it's very minimal - just use the colour/top coat. (light layers w/cure time between) Light-touch wet-sanding with emory-cloth will smooth the surface w/o removing the finish.

 

[swagbotbilly]

A light prime coat wet-sanded smooth should do it. If it's very minimal - just use the colour/top coat. (light layers w/cure time between) Light-touch wet-sanding with emory-cloth will smooth the surface w/o removing the finish.

Ended up having to sand quite a bit down to even out some gouges, so it all feels pretty smooth. But I might do a light prime coat over the bare spots just in case.