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Rattle Can Refinish Club

New one on the way..
Gonna give the rattle can a go
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New one on the way..
Gonna give the rattle can a go View attachment 4733955View attachment 4733956

2 split coils at weird angles! How does that thing sound???? Also def wanna see how that turns out.

Also, how are you planning to refinish it? I think I would fill in the huge chip, then sand the whole thing until it's rough enough to take a coat of primer (rather than trying to get through the whole finish coat.) Seems like it would be easier that way.

Good luck!
 
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Ok, y’all. I FINALLY finished this bad boy. Glarry body and PG with a Squier CV Jazz neck. Wilkinson bridge. Pups with white covers off the ‘verb. Fender Jazzmaster knobs and backplate. Wearing FM66 Rotosound Funkmasters.

And for the part that connects with this thread, 8 million coats of Colormaxx Coral Isle and 10ish of Painters Touch 2X matte clear. As documented a few pages ago, I basically started over on the paint after a big flub.

thanks for the advice along the way and for all the great ideas in this thread!
 
View attachment 4744500 View attachment 4744501 Ok, y’all. I FINALLY finished this bad boy. Glarry body and PG with a Squier CV Jazz neck. Wilkinson bridge. Pups with white covers off the ‘verb. Fender Jazzmaster knobs and backplate. Wearing FM66 Rotosound Funkmasters.

And for the part that connects with this thread, 8 million coats of Colormaxx Coral Isle and 10ish of Painters Touch 2X matte clear. As documented a few pages ago, I basically started over on the paint after a big flub.

thanks for the advice along the way and for all the great ideas in this thread!

Nice work! Colormaxx Coral Isle is one of my fave colors. I’ve used it twice now.
 
Hi All,

I'm in need of advice.
I've got this travel bass I made years ago and it was the first time i'd ever tried spraying a bass. It was a bit of a failure.... the paint never set properly and if I leave it in a hot car in the gig bag it'll stick to the bag a bit.
I haven't been bothered by this as it was intended on being a beater for camping, travelling etc but lately I've been learning a bit more about getting a decent finish and have decided to use this as a bit of a test subject.

I started sanding today and it appears as though the paint isn't sanding off but is just melting and moving around. What is the best (budget) way to get all the paint off? Should I just persevere and use more fresh pieces of sandpaper or is there a better method?

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Hi All,

I'm in need of advice.
I've got this travel bass I made years ago and it was the first time i'd ever tried spraying a bass. It was a bit of a failure.... the paint never set properly and if I leave it in a hot car in the gig bag it'll stick to the bag a bit.
I haven't been bothered by this as it was intended on being a beater for camping, travelling etc but lately I've been learning a bit more about getting a decent finish and have decided to use this as a bit of a test subject.

I started sanding today and it appears as though the paint isn't sanding off but is just melting and moving around. What is the best (budget) way to get all the paint off? Should I just persevere and use more fresh pieces of sandpaper or is there a better method?

View attachment 4759605

Pick up a decent can of paint stripper. Paint it on, then wrap the body in plastic wrap and leave for a few hours or overnight. Then use a scraper - this method is likely to cause dents and possible take out a few chunks of wood so patience is key. Likely best to try the stripper on a small section first to see if it works first. The type of stripper you need may depend on the type of paint that was used as well.
A heat gun+scraper may also give the same result if you have one handy. You may need to do all three.
 
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This is slightly dangerous so the usual cautions apply... Using an old safety razor blade or box cutter blade as a scraper, you are likely to remove paint and cause a small amount of scratching to the poly coat below. It depends on your end goal. Wrap the blade so only a portion is exposed. Wear gloves, etc. Wearing the poly coat down slightly isn’t all bad because you do want a new and clean surface to sand and paint on.

After removing old paint and sanding the poly, using a sealer and then fine sanding it is a lot of effort and can end up costing quite a bit.
 
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I left it natural at first, but a month or so ago, I rattle-canned it black, which I like better. It's a 90's era Yamaha RBX neck, I reshaped the headstock, which I now regret.

View attachment 4759849
You can always cut pieces of wood and glue back to the headstock shaped to your liking.
I have done that with great results ...sorry it was before smart phones..picture documents

I love the pickguard...Very nice job :thumbsup:
 
Well, today was interesting.
I got a heat gun to get the paint off my travel bass and it worked really well but getting the paint out of the curved sections was difficult. I started doing some sanding and realized a section where there was a few weird divots that looked like clear coat under the paint. I decided to hit it with the heat gun again and even without the scraper pieces of clear coat started cracking and literally jumping off the wood. It looks like they dipped it in clear coat before painting. It took quite a bit of work but I got all the clear coat off. There are some areas that still have some of the rubbery paint where it was end grain wood when I originally painted it years ago but I'm now confident that I'll get a much better result than the first effort. You can see how thick the clear coat was by the chip at the bottom left corner of the photo.
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Well, today was interesting.
I got a heat gun to get the paint off my travel bass and it worked really well but getting the paint out of the curved sections was difficult. I started doing some sanding and realized a section where there was a few weird divots that looked like clear coat under the paint. I decided to hit it with the heat gun again and even without the scraper pieces of clear coat started cracking and literally jumping off the wood. It looks like they dipped it in clear coat before painting. It took quite a bit of work but I got all the clear coat off. There are some areas that still have some of the rubbery paint where it was end grain wood when I originally painted it years ago but I'm now confident that I'll get a much better result than the first effort. You can see how thick the clear coat was by the chip at the bottom left corner of the photo.
View attachment 4765374

That sounds very exciting! ("pieces of clear coat started cracking and literally jumping off the wood") :) What sort of body is it? I see a jazz pu rout, but otherwise ...
 
It was a little exciting until a hot piece of finish exploded into my eye. I then got some sunglasses on to finish the job and will be getting some safety glasses for future jobs.

It started life as a Greg Bennett Corsair Short Scale. Here's the build thread if you're wondering what the hell I've done to this bass.

When I built this it was designed for camping, back-yard BBQ's etc and so I didn't even try to get a good finish.
I've started wanting to learn a bit more about getting a decent finish so i'm using this thing as a test subject. At the very least it'll look better than it did before. It looks like this at the moment. Lots of sanding still to do.

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When I originally built it these spots were just filled with some wood putty. The heat gun melted it out a bit.
Anyone have any ideas to fill it better and be able to smooth it out?
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