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Rattle Can Refinish Club

#2,221
swagbotbilly said:
I ended up trying this primer and it definitely dries FAST.

However, I got a lot of spots dead perfect, but some areas ended up really rough like this:

View attachment 4811968 View attachment 4811969

Was going to sand back my primer coat some anyway, but I'm wondering what I did that caused this.
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My guess would be 1) it needed to be shaken more, 2) it was old product, or 3) spraying rattle-can will always benefit from being warmed-up in a bucket of hot water. (with the spray-can in a zip-lock bag) Sometimes that will happen at the end of a coating caused by a semi-blocked nozzle. When finishing a coat, always hold the can upside-down, shoot a brief burst and wipe the nozzle with a cloth dipped in thinner.
 
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#2,222
ElCrowg said:
I've posted this question in a few spots (first over on the JMJ Mustang bass thread where I was redirected to the luthiery forum where it was suggested I post something here) So, apologies if this not an appropriate place for this question.

So, anyhow, I'm a bit of a modder for all my instruments. I always have been. And I have a Fender Justin Meldal-Johnsen Road Worn Mustang bass that I've been thinking for a long time about turning it pink. Shell pink.

I have some hesitation here, because as much as I'm not crazy about the current color (it's fine, it's just not mine, you know?) and I really don't care for how many pressure dents are put randomly all over- I do love the feel of this finish. It feels soft and satiny, and I love the checking lines throughout it. I'd be sad not to those under my fingers when I pick this bass up. I'm also a little nervous about how to handle refinishing around the string-through ferrules in the body. I'm guessing those would be difficult to manage taking out without taking some wood with it, and taping around them seems tough, too.

At any rate, I've been trying to figure out how I want to approach this- since I honestly rarely have a day pass that I don't pick up my JMJ (even though I have a few other great basses in rotation, this one is my daily player), I don't really want to have it out of commission for a long time for a full - down to the wood and fill in all the nicks, etc refinish project. So- that leaves a few options: scuff up the current finish, roughly fill the dings, spray seal, and build up from there for a shell pink is one option. Another is to really lean into the road worn look and not even bother to fill nicks/dings- maybe even jaggedly tape off some of the areas of wear around the edges, on the upper forearm area, etc, and let that show through. Make it look like it was hastily refinished over the blue at some point in the past and now it's worn through the refinish and the old finish...

Thoughts? I'm open to any and all ideas. I fully get that this type of project is not going to be to the liking of a lot of other folks. I get that, but I also don't really need to hear that from everyone. Constructive feedback is super appreciated, though!
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I for one think the JMJ would look killer in Shell Pink. If I were doing it, I'd spray nitro-compatible primer to cover the blue, then nitro Shell Pink, finishing with a few thin coats of nitro clear. You could then buff out with 0000 steel wool for a smooth matte finish. The pressure dents and dings might be cool to leave as is, but you could always fill them with Bondo before doing the rest. I'd stay away from taping off any areas, though. You could either let them wear with time, or do some light sanding to achieve the wear-through effect in the same spots that the factory relic achieved.
 
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#2,224
friskinator said:
I for one think the JMJ would look killer in Shell Pink. If I were doing it, I'd spray nitro-compatible primer to cover the blue, then nitro Shell Pink, finishing with a few thin coats of nitro clear. You could then buff out with 0000 steel wool for a smooth matte finish. The pressure dents and dings might be cool to leave as is, but you could always fill them with Bondo before doing the rest. I'd stay away from taping off any areas, though. You could either let them wear with time, or do some light sanding to achieve the wear-through effect in the same spots that the factory relic achieved.
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I like where your head's at on this! :thumbsup::thumbsup::thumbsup::thumbsup:
 
#2,225
ElCrowg said:
That might be a good idea. Are the Broncos exactly the same body otherwise? Neck pocket, etc?
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More knowledgeable people than me might be able to confirm but both are Fender products and the Bronco body looks a LOT like a Mustang. I'd be surprised if it wasn't at least very close on the neck pocket. From photos they both appear to join the body at the same fret. You'd want to rout a bit out for truss rod access for the Mustang neck.

Even if it doesn't work out, you said you like modding basses and as long as the neck on the Bronco is stable they can be a great basis for modding.

Edit: In the google search of Bronco Bass I saw a shell pink one which appears to be a standard colour for sale. There was even a loaded body for sale here on TB as it turns out. Link
 
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#2,227
BAG said:
More knowledgeable people than me might be able to confirm but both are Fender products and the Bronco body looks a LOT like a Mustang. I'd be surprised if it wasn't at least very close on the neck pocket. From photos they both appear to join the body at the same fret. You'd want to rout a bit out for truss rod access for the Mustang neck.
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I don't claim to be the definitive expert, but one of my parts-basses is a Squier Bronco neck on a Squier Mustang body and all lined up with no issues. So I would think the reverse is true.
 
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#2,228
Ended up doing a fine sanding sponge -> 00 -> 0000 steel wool on the color coat, and then did one coat of clear which looks GREAT so far. But I got a couple pieces of steel wool in it so I'm going to buff back and then go the scotchbrite pad route.

Can't wait to show it off!

What am I looking for in terms of hardness to know that the clearcoat is "hard enough" to play?
 
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#2,230
Gilmourisgod said:
The common TB wisdom on Nitro seems to be "as long as possible" BEFORE buffing it out. that ship has sailed, so to speak, I'd hang it up for at least 4 weeks if it hasn't cured that long already.
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Oh, I'm not doing nitro. This is just Rustoleum 2X clear. I can't remember if I figured out if it was acrylic or enamel but it's one of those.
 
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#2,237
These are my two most recent projects:

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And the coral-ish one on the right:

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