Just because some of the stripper got in there already and is taking the paint off. Just kind of a mess now
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Rattle Can Refinish Club
- Thread starter redlikejazz
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Just because some of the stripper got in there already and is taking the paint off. Just kind of a mess now
Finally got this one 99% together (gotta find my straplok buttons and another hole plug for the pickguard).
It's an Ibanez lawsuit era copy which sadly had a gloss black spray over the original Fireglo. The black was flaking off and taking some of the original Fireglo with it, so I stripped it back to mostly bare wood and sprayed with matte Krylon Fusion. From what I could tell while taking off the old finish, it was definitely professionally sprayed over the Fireglo which seemed to be in great condition. A real travesty.
The pickguard is aluminum so that also got the Krylon Fusion treatment. This thing's been sitting in a bag in the closet for over a year since I painted and sanded it because I've been too lazy to get pickups for it, but last week I finally did it. I still need to sand/scrape/file the paint off the binding.
It's an Ibanez lawsuit era copy which sadly had a gloss black spray over the original Fireglo. The black was flaking off and taking some of the original Fireglo with it, so I stripped it back to mostly bare wood and sprayed with matte Krylon Fusion. From what I could tell while taking off the old finish, it was definitely professionally sprayed over the Fireglo which seemed to be in great condition. A real travesty.
The pickguard is aluminum so that also got the Krylon Fusion treatment. This thing's been sitting in a bag in the closet for over a year since I painted and sanded it because I've been too lazy to get pickups for it, but last week I finally did it. I still need to sand/scrape/file the paint off the binding.
My first bass was an Ibanez fireglo just like that. First I'd heard of someone else having one on here.
Just my opinion, I like the "no binding" look of that finish just like it is. Kind of gives it a different look aside from the fantastic color you chose.
- Jun 30, 2010
- 49,618
- 222,149
- Disclosures
- musician/artist/owner - Gildaxe
Is that a Hipshot bridge? And are the pu's originals? (Ibanez)
Thanks! My fiancée just commented that she likes the Easter egg color scheme going on with my rack of basses right now (capri orange P, shell pink J, mint green MM, and now the sunflower yellow Ric). I had a 1973 Schwinn Breeze bike that was yellow with chrome fenders and had some cream accents on the saddle. Sadly, I no longer have that bike, but this bass is kind of an homage to it.
I might leave it binding-less since sanding the binding will be a pain, but it's aged to a nice cream color like the neck binding so I think it would tie in nicely with the pickguard.
- Jun 30, 2010
- 49,618
- 222,149
- Disclosures
- musician/artist/owner - Gildaxe
Removing paint from binding is actually easy. If you've good, you can do it holding a fresh-bladed utility knife and moving along the contour to keep it clean/neat.
You can also watch this vid - he made a small jig for a razor-blade - that would be the easiest way to go.
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Well, either with or without the binding visible it is an awesome color. And sounds like it'll fit in well with the rest of those colors. I love colors so those sound great.
I had a used Schwinn Krate bike (with the smaller front tire) in that color for a brief time. Those were the days.
Hipshot bridge because the original was bent with the tail lifting a good 3/16" from the body. I think the truss rod was frozen such that light strings didn't correct for the backbow so instead of fixing it, the guy who sold it to me chiseled into the body to inset the bridge to compensate for the high action and put really heavy strings on it to compensate for the backbow.
I installed the Hipshot and managed to loosen the truss rod enough to put 40-95 D'addario strings on it. The action is now acceptably low enough until I can get the frets leveled and diagnose what's up with the truss rod. I sprayed WD40 down there and let it sit for a day, then put some "dry lubricant" in the truss adjustment cavity. It made a horrible creaking sound and was tough to move, but I know I didn't bust it (yet).
The original pickups were super corroded and crusted up and sounded awful, so I chucked them and replaced them with these Eric-brand pickups from EY Guitar Shop on Reverb. They're Alnico V and sound pretty good to me. I don't know how accurately they reproduce the "Ric sound," but the bass is also wired rotary selector-volume-tone to a single jack, so I'm not exactly a Ric tone purist.
My main hesitation with doing it is that there isn't really an inconspicuous area to test, as all the binding is on the front.
- Jun 30, 2010
- 49,618
- 222,149
- Disclosures
- musician/artist/owner - Gildaxe
I don't understand - you stripped it correct? So you know where the binding was. Did you take pictures of it stripped? If so you can use that to guide you. Even if you remove less than the binding width - you can still expose the binding cleanly.
FYI -"Plain vanilla" WD40 is not really a good penetrating oil for breaking loose frozen nuts/bolts. I'm not saying it might not help, but a real penetrating oil would be better.
8 Best Penetrating Oils for Loosening Rusted Bolts in 2023
I don't know if it's because everything is rusted together, or if it's because, when I look down into the truss nut cavity, the truss rod nut is pressing against the bottom of the cavity. Either way, I've gotten the neck relief set where I like it with these strings. Other adjustments can be made with the bridge saddles and eventually getting the frets leveled and crowned.
Agreed. Good luck if you decide to expose the binding, but if you don't, your bass already looks killer.
Working on a project for @ATLbassist. Peavey Fury body in Krylon Colormaxx burgundy. I’ll do a satin clear once the color is cured.
It's interesting how much of the grain shows through the paint. I like it! Was that intentional?
No, it wasn't. This color is paint/primer in one, but I normally spray over solid color bodies. This one was stripped and grain filled before I got it.
I’m working on this one:
the plan is as many coats of primer as it takes to cover the difference between my filler spot and the wood and then a deep navy blue of some sort and a clear over that.
the plan is as many coats of primer as it takes to cover the difference between my filler spot and the wood and then a deep navy blue of some sort and a clear over that.
I just painted some chairs using Colormaxx burgundy and yes, it's very translucent. not a good thing in my case.
