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Rattle Can Refinish Club

Anybody here have problems with Rustoleum American Accents 2x Ultra refusing to cure on plastic? I cleaned and degreased a few new, stock, glossy plastic knobs and lightly scuffed, cleaned, and degreased two new Jazzmaster pickup covers, allowed them to sit overnight at room temp, then did my normal spray routine: a light coat of warmed rattlecan color followed by three more very light passes every 15-20 minutes. Their initial dry-to-touch process took took hours in my basement "clean tent" where it's vented & low humidity but then I moved them upstairs to cure for 12 days where it's about 68 deg F and slightly more humid (but not humidified, our house is relatively dry in the winter).

When I shot them with the first light pass of clear tonight the knobs were totally fine but as soon as the spray hit the pickup covers the paint layer bubbled up. I admit to not giving them a fingernail test beforehand but the paint felt hard as a rock and I had no reason to doubt these were still in the danger zone -- if anything I could understand the paint refusing to adhere to the glossy knobs.
 
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Anybody here have problems with Rustoleum American Accents 2x Ultra refusing to cure on plastic? I cleaned and degreased a few new, stock, glossy plastic knobs and lightly scuffed, cleaned, and degreased two new Jazzmaster pickup covers, allowed them to sit overnight at room temp, then did my normal spray routine: a light coat of warmed rattlecan color followed by three more very light passes every 15-20 minutes. Their initial dry-to-touch process took took hours in my basement "clean tent" where it's vented & low humidity but then I moved them upstairs to cure for 12 days where it's about 68 deg F and slightly more humid (but not humidified, our house is relatively dry in the winter).

When I shot them with the first light pass of clear tonight the knobs were totally fine but as soon as the spray hit the pickup covers the paint layer bubbled up. I admit to not giving them a fingernail test beforehand but the paint felt hard as a rock and I had no reason to doubt these were still in the danger zone -- if anything I could understand the paint refusing to adhere to the glossy knobs.
It has happened to me with a pickguard.
Others were fine and look great.
This one bubbled like mad every time I tried...so I kept it like that in the end.
 
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Anybody here have problems with Rustoleum American Accents 2x Ultra refusing to cure on plastic? I cleaned and degreased a few new, stock, glossy plastic knobs and lightly scuffed, cleaned, and degreased two new Jazzmaster pickup covers, allowed them to sit overnight at room temp, then did my normal spray routine: a light coat of warmed rattlecan color followed by three more very light passes every 15-20 minutes. Their initial dry-to-touch process took took hours in my basement "clean tent" where it's vented & low humidity but then I moved them upstairs to cure for 12 days where it's about 68 deg F and slightly more humid (but not humidified, our house is relatively dry in the winter).

When I shot them with the first light pass of clear tonight the knobs were totally fine but as soon as the spray hit the pickup covers the paint layer bubbled up. I admit to not giving them a fingernail test beforehand but the paint felt hard as a rock and I had no reason to doubt these were still in the danger zone -- if anything I could understand the paint refusing to adhere to the glossy knobs.

Are you using a lacquer clear?
 
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Y'all got skills! I play mine as is. Knock the rust off and set them up but attempts at refinishing have been abysmal. At least they're honestly roadworn. But to have the level refinishing acumen pictured here would be a dream come true.

It takes a bit of patience but it's not rocket science. The DIY rattle-can paint products commonly available today at any Ace Hardware/Home Depot store can be used to do a pretty decent finish. Just gotta follow the recommended protocol.
 
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It has happened to me with a pickguard.
Others were fine and look great.
This one bubbled like mad every time I tried...so I kept it like that in the end.

I could live with it but these aren't for me, they're for a friend.

Are you using a lacquer clear?

It was Semi-Gloss Clear from the same Rusto American Accents 2x Ultra line. I've used it before for a few different plastic and wood projects and never had a problem.

I'll sand the covers back to plastic and hit them with Rusto Automotive Filler/Primer this weekend since I have it on hand. I'll give that a long cure before spraypainting again & giving that a long cure, then I'll try again with a clear coat. Maybe something about the composition of this specific color isn't jiving with the composition of this specific pickup cover and it needs that undercoat. :thumbsdown:
 
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I'd planned on doing a refin on a Foundation body I had laying around, but messed up and bid on an infinity at an auction when I thought I was bidding on a banjo. (Grossly Overpayed and it even had dead pups). All Krylon rattle can, nothing special. all from the local hardware store.

(Posted in another thread, where they mentioned this club.
Scuffed original
Affinity 1.jpg

Primed and wetsanded
Affinity 2.jpg

Gold chrome basecoat
Affinity 3.jpg

Glitter coat
Affinity 4.jpg

Acrylic based clear coat. Rustoleum triple thick glaze. I'll have to see how it holds up. Still needs wetsanding and polish. Letting it sit a week or so.
Affinity 5.jpg
 
I'd planned on doing a refin on a Foundation body I had laying around, but messed up and bid on an infinity at an auction when I thought I was bidding on a banjo. (Grossly Overpayed and it even had dead pups). All Krylon rattle can, nothing special. all from the local hardware store.

(Posted in another thread, where they mentioned this club.
Scuffed original
View attachment 5361286
Primed and wetsanded
View attachment 5361287
Gold chrome basecoat
View attachment 5361289
Glitter coat
View attachment 5361290
Acrylic based clear coat. Rustoleum triple thick glaze. I'll have to see how it holds up. Still needs wetsanding and polish. Letting it sit a week or so.View attachment 5361291
Nice job....Great job
I'm jealous!
well...impressed...and envious.
Can't wait to see further progress
 
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Murphy / C Stone I have to give credit where credit is due. I may try doing a candy red to get a tangarine hue later on... If anything an affinity is a great instrument to experiment on. when I'm done it might end out being a 100 dollar bass with 4-500 bucks worth of parts.... or not...
How To: Easiest and Cheapest Way to Metal Glitter Flake a Guitar or Anything Step by Step (youtube.com)

How to Candy Paint Job Using Spray Paint Step by Step w/o special equipment the easiest way to Kandy (youtube.com)
 
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Murphy / C Stone I have to give credit where credit is due. I may try doing a candy red to get a tangarine hue later on... If anything an affinity is a great instrument to experiment on. when I'm done it might end out being a 100 dollar bass with 4-500 bucks worth of parts.... or not...
How To: Easiest and Cheapest Way to Metal Glitter Flake a Guitar or Anything Step by Step (youtube.com)

How to Candy Paint Job Using Spray Paint Step by Step w/o special equipment the easiest way to Kandy (youtube.com)

Let me know if you like to trade that body once it's done.
 
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Let me know if you like to trade that body once it's done.
I still have quite a bit to do, so there's beyond a good chance I'll screw it up. :)
As much as I enjoyed messing with it... I think the Peavey foundation will be a lot better. Still thinking of trying a few other things on the affinity.

BTW... it's a lot easier to do than a lot of people realize.
 
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I'm currently re-finishing a late '60s Egmond (Made In Holland) ss bass. It was a very crudely factory-finished cream white (body) when I recently got it as a fixer-upper. You can see a blow-by-blow here along with another Egmond I'm restoring - https://www.talkbass.com/threads/egmond-rambler-typhoon-bass-projects.1633292/

Both bodies will be sprayed with Montana products - a superior 'art' supply rattle-can spray that comes in a plethora of great shades and hues of all colours. Way nicer and more diverse than any hardware-store product. I buy it locally here in SF at BLICK's Art Supply.

Here's a teaser.., you can visit my thread for more -

upload_2024-2-26_15-46-9.jpeg
upload_2024-2-26_15-46-24.jpeg
 
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What vinyl undercoating primer sealer product is recommended? I have done some extensive surgery on a basswood body and would like to have nice self leveling sealer that will keep the body from denting and cracking paint from a little ding. And of course it must be cheap. Have used bondo glaze in the past with mixed results.
 
What vinyl undercoating primer sealer product is recommended? I have done some extensive surgery on a basswood body and would like to have nice self leveling sealer that will keep the body from denting and cracking paint from a little ding. And of course it must be cheap. Have used bondo glaze in the past with mixed results.

I use this as a primer-sealer ... it is alkyd-based but once cured any product will work on top. Sands easily also.

upload_2024-3-7_14-48-8.jpeg
 
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I use this as a primer-sealer ... it is alkyd-based but once cured any product will work on top. Sands easily also.

View attachment 5377949

Have to say, I never thought I'd Zinsser products in this thread. :D

Can attest that any decent paint will adhere regardless if solvent or water based for your top coat onto Zinsser. Their products are amazing.
 
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Have to say, I never thought I'd Zinsser products in this thread. :D

Can attest that any decent paint will adhere regardless if solvent or water based for your top coat onto Zinsser. Their products are amazing.

It covers well, drys nearly flat, sands easily and blends in well on re-coats. If I'm doing an opaque finish - that goes on 1st.
 
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It covers well, drys nearly flat, sands easily and blends in well on re-coats. If I'm doing an opaque finish - that goes on 1st.

I used their products extensively throughout my home renovations -- sealing lead and old solvent based paints, as well as "temp" fix areas - the kitchen hadn't been touched in about 30 years the wall paint had become a semi gloss coated with cooking grease and nicotine stains. Used 2 coats of leftover BullsEye primer then a cheap contract paint to put some life back into things. That primer went on without any prep and stuck just fine!

Their primers are practically unrivalled.
 
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